As it happens, I'm playing with the crest a bit now. I DO think we should keep as much of the original PCA design as possible, else the whole effect is lost.

Carlos, some resolution seemed to be lost in your rendering - or at least in what ended up on screen here on the SOC website, but your text was higher resolution than my original, so I've applied your text to my original, and that seems to be working. Will let you know if I need the eps. Thanks.

 

I still think we should use a very close copy of the PCA including keeping it PCA and just replace the Porsche with "Plasticar" it is only one more letter. It would be funny to have to look very close to catch the difference.

 

Well, there's no time deadline on this, so we can kick it around for a while.

I think I want to leave what I've got, but monkey with the crest a little. My first attempt at that didn't go too well and the original crest still looks better.

I'm off the computer for the rest of the day and will pick this up again tonight.

It's really Solrac the red to you mortals.

CorelDraw 11 to be exact.  Yes it's old, but I know it, and it does everything I want it to do. Every time they would come up with something new, it took forever to relearn it. Similar to Windows.

That's why I still have a flip phone and I'm getting a new motor put in my 93 4 runner instead of scrapping it because the head gasket just blew.

BTW, the PCA logo is so lame. They can't even use the real Porsche crest. So sad.

 

Carlos G posted:

It's really Solrac the red to you mortals.

CorelDraw 11 to be exact.  Yes it's old, but I know it, and it does everything I want it to do. Every time they would come up with something new, it took forever to relearn it. Similar to Windows.

That's why I still have a flip phone and I'm getting a new motor put in my 93 4 runner instead of scrapping it because the head gasket just blew.

BTW, the PCA logo is so lame. They can't even use the real Porsche crest. So sad.

 

What?! Porsche won't even allow a club designed to promote the brand can't use the crest because it's not authorized?  

Someone should find out if the crest the PCA uses is copyrighted or not. If it isn't we should copyright it for our PCCA badge and tell them to stop using it.

Last edited by Robert M
Panhandle Bob posted:

And to think this started off as "Newbie With Questions".

Yeah we're focused.

Doesn't bother me.  Actually, I am kinda thinking that the more folks read this thread, the more answers I will get to my questions.

edsnova posted:

They look to be about six inches too high.

Good call.  I went out and measured, and they are about 2 1/2" too high.  I can get 1 1/2" easy enough, but may have to start cutting frame and having structure welded in to get that last inch.  Tomorrow, I will mock up the seating position and see how it feels best.

Steering-shaft-endSteering-Shaft-SplinesSteering-Shaft

Above are photos of the VW steering column and shaft that came with my project.  It seems that in order to purchase the correct hub adapter for a steering wheel, I need to know what year my steering column is.  It is 37 inches long.  The outside diameter of the splines is 21.5 mm.  The outside diameter of the threaded area is 18 mm.  The outside diameter of the column is 40 mm.  Anybody know what year it might be?

What just struck me as odd is the length of the bare shaft at wheel end of the column.  Maybe the inside bearing has been pushed too far towards the steering wheel?

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Last edited by Todd M
Michael McKelvey posted:

There should be no bearing at the bottom end of the tube.  It looks like the bearing at the top end of the tube is there.

The top bearing is about 1/4" from the top of the tube.

This column question post was also my first post on, "The Samba."  The info I received is that the column is from a 1966 or 1967 bug.  To make it fit my project, it will have to be cut, and maybe even cut and welded.  The dotted line drawing of the steering hub makes clear why the shaft extends so far past the end of the column.  Thanks all.

Last edited by Todd M

If things are aligned correctly the column shaft will be centered in the column tube and when supported on the foot well bulkhead.  If you want to add a bottom inner support spacer, ( do this out of the car ) you can use a hard rubber caster wheel a donor. You grind off the "axle rivet" grind down the outer circumference so that it fits snugly into the column tube. The center of the rubber wheel gets bored to just over the diameter of the column shaft this  gets a coating of chassis grease. The rubber itself is anchored to the column with three short screws spaced 1/3 apart.   NOTE :  When you install a column, do not to put any forced upward pressure on the dash end of the column especially if your column has the crush cage, over time rotating the column left and right the crush cage weld WILL CRACK and become separated. This happened years ago when I ran Auto Shop program for At Risk Youth, it took some digging but I found that one of the kids had tightened the two column bolts under the dash with an air ratchet and unknowingly forced the misaligned column against the underside of the dash.  When I removed the two column to dash bolts I found that they had forced the column upward slightly hence the crush collar failed as described. Lucky for me the column weld snapped loading the speedster onto a trailer. 

 

With a VW pan, VW steering box, and std bug H torsion leaf front end - the std steering column should fit as is.  Your's is a custom SS frame with coupe body so???

And seats?  There are two types that I am considering; the speedster type and the original 356 coupe type.  The replica speedster type seat is less expensive, but I have concerns about comfort, especially for my wife.  There aren't any replica 356 coupe seats and the originals are cost prohibitive, but there are some seats that are fairly close.  And they would still be more expensive than the speedster type.  Opinions?

1657183Porsche-356-Front-Seat-Cover-Red-21-600x600

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WOLFGANG posted:

With a VW pan, VW steering box, and std bug H torsion leaf front end - the std steering column should fit as is.  Your's is a custom SS frame with coupe body so???

The rack and pinion is from a Geo Tracker, and I really like the installation, but the steering box shaft is no where close to a VW's.  A lot of normal column length is taken up by a couple of U joints and the rubber coupler, so the shaft and the column will have to be shortened to whatever is comfortable.  What is an SS frame?

@Todd M

The seats on my previous VS were the standard size and the side bolsters were too snug for my preference (translation; my fat a$$).

On my current 2015 VS I opted for the wider Speedster seats that VS had as an option. This car is a daily driver plus my wife & I frequently go on extended trips (200-250 miles). The side bolsters still provide side support without compromising on comfort.

Here is a pic for visual reference. click on pic to enlarge. Hope you find this info useful. 

IMG_0404

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Last edited by MusbJim
Todd M posted:
WOLFGANG posted:

With a VW pan, VW steering box, and std bug H torsion leaf front end - the std steering column should fit as is.  Your's is a custom SS frame with coupe body so???

The rack and pinion is from a Geo Tracker, and I really like the installation, but the steering box shaft is no where close to a VW's.  A lot of normal column length is taken up by a couple of U joints and the rubber coupler, so the shaft and the column will have to be shortened to whatever is comfortable.  What is an SS frame?

SS = Stainless Steel

Alan Merklin posted:

If things are aligned correctly the column shaft will be centered in the column tube and when supported on the foot well bulkhead.  If you want to add a bottom inner support spacer, ( do this out of the car ) you can use a hard rubber caster wheel a donor. You grind off the "axle rivet" grind down the outer circumference so that it fits snugly into the column tube. The center of the rubber wheel gets bored to just over the diameter of the column shaft this  gets a coating of chassis grease. The rubber itself is anchored to the column with three short screws spaced 1/3 apart.   NOTE :  When you install a column, do not to put any forced upward pressure on the dash end of the column especially if your column has the crush cage, over time rotating the column left and right the crush cage weld WILL CRACK and become separated. This happened years ago when I ran Auto Shop program for At Risk Youth, it took some digging but I found that one of the kids had tightened the two column bolts under the dash with an air ratchet and unknowingly forced the misaligned column against the underside of the dash.  When I removed the two column to dash bolts I found that they had forced the column upward slightly hence the crush collar failed as described. Lucky for me the column weld snapped loading the speedster onto a trailer. 

 

image_18174

Where I am planning the second support bearing, the shaft is a bit over 5/8" in diameter, so I am thinking that the center hub of the caster has to be larger than the shaft diameter because greased rubber would not make a good bearing surface.  What do you think?

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