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For sale, a 2276 Type 1 turnkey engine including a new 1 5/8"  A-1 stainless steel sidewinder merged header and polished A1 muffler and dual outlet exhaust (which can be swapped out for center or side exit easily).  The dual 44 Weber carbs are brand new from CB Performance. The engine was built by Bill Westerfeld of Westerfeld Enterprises who has 40 years experience as a professional Porsche and VW race engine builder. The engine is ready to install and run.

Build specs are: 

Genuine VW ASA41full flowed case/welded #3 spigot

New 8mm ARP case studs

Close Fin Type 2 oil cooler

CB 8 dowel forged 12 lb. flywheel 

KEP stage 1 Pressure plate

solid center organic clutch

Mahle 94mm forged Piston and cylinders.  Total seal rings

82mm counter weighted and balanced crank with all new bearings

Porsche 912 rods.

All new main and rod bearings

55 amp Alternator

Welded fan

36hp style fan shroud

Engle FK43 cam

Scat lifters

New Flame Thrower 009 Distributor w/electronic ign. module

CB Taylor 8mm plug wires

CB 044 Ultra mag plus oval port heads 42mm intakes 37.5mm exhaust.

CB Port matched ultra mag welded intake manifolds.

1.4 ratio rockers on solid shafts/ hardened studs

Chrome molly Rods

New MST aluminum pulleys.

Aluminum vented valve covers

large deep sump 1.5 Qt. oil pan.

Fully dynamically balanced engine

9.5:1 CR  (94mm bore, 82mm stroke,.058" deck height, 55cc head chamber volume)

Engine is broken in and has 500 miles of road testing in my Puma to get carb jetting perfected. Carb jetting is .60 idle/ 150 main / 190 air correction

Engine does not leak oil.

Estimate engine is putting out in the 180hp range with the power band being 1800-6500 rpms

Engine idles smoothly at 850-900 rpms and starts easy and has been running oil temps of 185 average on 85-90 days without an auxiliary oil cooler which the engine is setup to run if you wish to add one. 

Price is $6500.00 / $5500.00 without the A1 exhaust.

I can crate the engine for shipping FOC. and extend my 65% trucking discount to the buyer. 

Feel free to call me: Jim Vickers 812-972-4516.  between 9am -9pm EST. 

Attachments

Images (6)
  • Puma 2276 finished engine rebuild new pulleys7-21-2020
  • Puma 2276 rear view 1
  • Puma 2110 to 2276 finished and installed
  • Puma 2110 to 2276 oil pan and header 1
  • Puma 2110 to 2276 rebuild 2
  • Puma 2110 to 2276 rebuild 6
Videos (1)
Puma 2276 Type 1 cam break in 7-17-2020
Last edited by Jimmy V.
Original Post

The engine is also listed on Samba for $200.00 more. Any SOC member gets the lower price.

 I have a Raby type 4 motor just starting the build process that you can have choices on the build if you are interested. If I don't have an interested party in the next few days I am going to have it built into a 200HP + 2.8L (maybe 3.0L) torque monster engine. Why you say, because I always wanted too and it sounds like it would be a fun engine. It will be sold as well, probably in the $7500.00 neighborhood. Still a hell of a deal.

Last edited by Jimmy V.

DannyP Thanks for the input, notice the words "probably and neighborhood" were used because I don't know the exact build size yet or the cost of the parts and the build. The engine builder and I have a time set aside this coming week to discuss options and prices. I may be way off on the price but maybe not. I am not trying to make a big profit I have fun doing this and also get to play with some really cool engines. It is Win/Win I say!

  I was driving the Puma with the type 1 engine for sale  this morning and it is a super, super nice engine. I finally got the carb jetting from being very close to dialed in perfectly and it has made a huge difference in smoothness and power. The engine went from being a nice engine to an amazing engine that should be a keeper for any sane person.  I won't mind even a little bit if it doesn't sell. This thing really makes the Puma fly. I am glad the Puma has 4 wheel disc brakes. LoL.

Last edited by Jimmy V.
@dlearl476 posted:

Damn, Jimmy. I wish I was in a place where I could pull this off. I have a nagging feeling that my Spyder motor is on its last legs. I've been fantasizing about dropping this motor in ever since you started posting about it. 

Unfortunately, I'd have to sell some of my favorite toys in a bear market or eat Ramen for a couple of years.

GLWS. 

That have made many culinary advances with what you can do with Ramen these days. Go for it. 

Engine has been Sold! Thanks for all the well wishes and comments. It is going to a SOC member for their Speedster. They couldn't use the stainless 1 5/8" A1 sidewinder header and polished muffler and dual tip exhaust so it is for sale for $1000.00 which is a little below cost and it is new with less than 500 miles on it and no 5 week wait to have A1 make it. The part with the tips can be swapped out for center or side exit to suite your needs. It will fit a Speedster, Bug or Ghia.

Puma 2276 finished engine rebuild 7-20-2020

Puma 2276 A1 1.625 sidewinder muffler & large oil panPuma A1 sidewinder w-Dual tip

Attachments

Images (3)
  • Puma 2276 A1 1.625 sidewinder muffler & large oil pan
  • Puma A1 sidewinder w-Dual tip
  • Puma 2276 finished engine rebuild 7-20-2020
Last edited by Jimmy V.

Jimmy, that looks awesome! Good luck to the buyer, you made an excellent purchase. I'd love to run this motor in my car to see what it's got.

To the buyer, please do two things: 

Please attach the hose to the firewall in your Speedster. I recall several cars going up in flames because the hose got sucked toward and rubbed on the fan. Not good! Obviously there is nothing to attach to at the moment.

Get rid of those worm-drive hose clamps, and use spring clamps instead. They'll never damage the fuel hoses or come loose. I know this from personal experience.

I have those clamps from the main gas line to the filter in the engine compartment. Maybe Carlos is right, I also am unsure about the spring clamp tension on those lines that is why I was asking how to determine how much pressure or which size to use.   UPDATE:  I had a leak once when I was running the engine and I happened to have the engine lid up and caught the leak... since then I never know if they are tight enough and I am worried that I might overtighten them so that is why I was thinking of getting the spring type. 

Attachments

Images (1)
  • mceclip0
Last edited by IaM-Ray

Hose clamps are one of my fetishes. I use Norma and ABA stainless steel clamps on everything that requires one. Best sources I've found are CAP Hardware out in CA and BelMetric.*

 

*I was whining about not being able to find the oddball bolt sizes on my 68 Ducati single on a motorcycle forum and a long-time Porsche mechanic told me about BelMetric. Turns out they're also about the only place in America where you can still buy blue cloth-wrapped brake fluid hose, too. 

@IaM-Ray posted:

 Can you show me a sample again Danny I have worm gears on my fuel lines and I was thinking of changing them, how do you know what size to use On what hose is my question ?  @DannyP

Throw a vernier caliper on them. I generally go with a clamp 1mm smaller than the hose ID i.e. the OD of my 9mm fuel line is 14mm, so I use a 13mm clamp. There's a bit of range in the clamps, so using a smaller one keeps nut/bolt separated when they're tight. 

No. If you're going to use braided steel line, then you should go whole-hog and use AN fittings as well. The braided hose is designed to be used with the fittings, not hose clamps.

Unless you were just trying to be facetious.

I prefer the nylon braided hose(and fittings designed for them) for my oil lines.

Low pressure gas hoses should be ethanol-resistant.

High pressure EFI hoses should be either rubber and gas-specific or AN steel braided and probably teflon-lined.

fuel filter top bottom is feed in. fuel filter overview trunkcolouredfuel line feed from front

This pict above shows the metal to rubber changeover deep in the engine compartment. 

 

fuel filter bottom

THis pict above is the feed of fuel to the bottom of the filter. fuel filter overview trunkcolouredfuel filter top bottom is feed in.

Filter above feeds to fuel injection... 

So I went out to see my setup on my car for fuel line. The metal line comes out to the area near the YELLOW BAND. deep in engine compartment and It goes to a rubber line and covered with a web protector. Finally feeds the bottom of the filter and finally to the fuel injection.

The issue I had was the bottom filter hose came loose and was leaking.  Needless to say I keep an eye on them NOW.  

Attachments

Images (5)
  • fuel filter bottom
  • fuel filter overview trunkcoloured
  • fuel filter top bottom is feed in.
  • fuel line feed from front
  • fuel line feed from front

Why don't you all start your own thread dedicated to the hose clamp fetish you have. By the way, I have been wrenching on for 44 years now and have owned over 150 cars along the way. I have never had an issue with properly installed worm gear style hose clamps. If the hose and nipple are the correct sizes the worm gear clamp does a wonderful job tightening the hose down to keep it from being pulled off the barbs or barb on the end of the nipple. I would say if they where as dangerous or bad as couple of you are convinced then I would have had a failure during the last 44 years. I am convinced that I am not the only one on this forum that can say the same. I have nothing against someone wanting to use a "better" clamp but don't belittle those who choose to use a different style clamp. This thread has now drifted to the point people are feeling compelled to show pictures of their cars to prove to the group that they have the "right kind" of clamps. 

Last edited by Jimmy V.

Jimmy, that was not my intent. It was just a forewarning to the new engine's owner to secure the fuel line. I've no idea who it is or what experience he may/may not have.

I'm definitely sorry to have drifted your sweet engine thread. I apologize.

I've been working on cars just as long as you have, and I've seen those worm-drive clamps come loose, therefore I don't use them any more.

To each his own. Cheers.

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