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I know this topic must come up during builds, but one of the things that I personally would like to update on the look of the kit 356 Speedster.  Specifically 1. under the front fender wells in the back side, filling the area and featuring the ribbed OEM look as featured from Restoration Desing, 2. having the tubular "jack" connection tube in the middle of the frame. 3.  Having the fender well font connector piece like featured from Restoration Design.  4.  How to had the front connection point of the fiberglasss frame to the chassis.  The two protruding connection points don't do these beauties any justice. 

Has anyone done a dyi or modified their Speedster to give it the OEM Porsche look in these areas?  I just love the look of the original when you peer forward in the fender well of a kit car you see two connecting bolts in the front, and if you look behind the front fender well the space looks empty compared to the original.  The back fender wells not so much.  Can these issues be solved in either the production of the tubular frame, or within the mold of the fiberglass?  It would be nice to see the well filled up, and if peering forward in the well it doesn't present the kit look.  thoughts?  Check out some of the photos.  Looking forward to your comments.   thanks!

Attachments

Images (6)
  • 55-porsche-356-speedster-2-thumb-960xauto-66503: Middel OEM Jack tubular pice.
  • 1958-porsche-356a-speedster-reutter-331-000-1476934214479: Frame sections can be added to the tube frame?
  • ChassisCar: Back of front wheel has more arch filling metal
  • jerry-seinfeld-sued-false-porsche-sale-amelia-island: Minus the Sliver tubes, the arch looks more complete
  • P130L_255x255: Front Fender well support on OEM
  • PP106CL-1_255x255: Ribbed well section that looks so great.
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Here is what they did in the UK.  Much to your comment.  Check them out.   I'm looking for something quite different, but am considering all things.  For my research on a new build, I would like to get as much authentic within reason.  I know that you can run up the cost very very quickly.  But if one is consdering builiding a 35-50+ car (subie build) then why wouldn't one take the time to make the car as authentic as possible.  In speaking with a number of builders now, a few have gone the extra mile to make their replicas as close to the real thing within reason.  Just consider how the new builds can carry 4 wheel disc brakes with 5 lug replica covers (very nice touch), others are using reproduction Porsche steering with Porsche style steeing tube that look great.  I'm not interested in chasing some money is no object build, rather am doing the research on my new build vs. the JP owned in the past.  (a very nice car, and sorry I sold it) but this is fun.  Nothing wrong with doing your homework and making it fun along the way.  Thanks Wolfgang. Hopefully others will share some ideas and thoughts along the way too.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Attachments

Images (6)
  • 145922_21_big: Way to clean up the "tub"?
  • 993982_582545761808993_2136839607_n: Vinatage Paint Job
  • 10255292_700807343316167_3912856242885702949_n: A great top
  • sp-clinic-5: cool
  • speedster-replica-08
  • speedster-replica-09
westcoastspeedster posted:

 I know that you can run up the cost very very quickly.  But if one is consdering builiding a 35-50+ car (subie build) then why wouldn't one take the time to make the car as authentic as possible.  In speaking with a number of builders now, a few have gone the extra mile to make their replicas as close to the real thing within reason.  

 

"Within reason" is very much in the eye of the beholder. Most guys here just want something wicked fast, easy to maintain and more-or-less old-Porsche-shaped. Just a few discerning individuals care about the parking brake handle, the shape of the tunnel, the pedals, etc. That rabbit hole is deep.

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