You can buy all size black rubber plugs (ACE/LOWES) but why not just mount the wiper motor unit even if not hooked up or with blades? Here would be an application for black silicone stuff - easy to peel off down the road.
My wiper holes are plugged with a couple of stainless cap screws. I need to fortify the seal with some silicone.
I didn't want the wiper mechanism installed because, from what I understand, the wipers are pretty useless anyway. I just keep the windshield clean a Rain-Xed. I do have the motor and assembly in a box on the shelf.
Carlos, yes, thermostat. Wix 1515 or NAPA 51515. Forget the R, it's wasted money for less filtration. This year I used 10W40 oil. You'll get lower startup pressures and cooler running. Believe it. 20W50 is not needed unless you live in Florida or the desert.
RE: wipers, I use mine and they have saved my bacon in downpours. Of course, I do have a top. But I have driven in the rain without the top, and they help there as well. In torrential rain, you will get some mist on the backside of the windshield, so I carry a towel in the door.
The other day I was driving along on a clear blue day and all of a sudden I enter a fog bank. It was the thickest stuff I've ever seen. I could barely see the road. I had to wipe both sides of the windshield. It was scary. I turned around immediately. I was afraid someone in a truck wouldn't see my small gray car and push me off the mountain. I might give those wipers a chance sometime. Rain X doesn't work too well for mist.
I figured out my no brake light situation. The switch at the master cylinder is bad. I thought it'd be that damned module again, but my investigation found it to be the switch. Not the easiest thing to get to. I'm wondering, when I remove it, could I just fill the hole with brake fluid before screwing the new one in, and avoid having to rebleed the system? mmmmmmm
Yeah, the quality of brake light pressure switches is declining. I'm on my third one in ten years. Yes, if you are ready with the new one, you can swap it without bleeding. Some fluid will leak out, and bleeding is usually not needed.
I got rid of the trailer light thing a long time ago. I'm surprised Greg still uses them. Mine burned out on me a couple times. I use a bunch of Bosch-type relays and a single heavy duty 2 terminal flasher to run things. Changed it out for relays in 2010, not a single problem since.
It's just one of the things on a LONG list I've changed over the years, for the better.
My son is coming over for Turkey day. It'll be the first time he sees this car in person. I'm sure he'll want to go for a ride. He's a gearhead too. Maybe I can rig two wires and have him hold them and when I say brake, touch them together. Haha
I use the same switch, but I get it from NAPA. Just ask for an Echlin switch for a 1937-1957 Chevy pickup/sedan/coupe. I've had one installed in Pearl for a couple of years now and apart from having a small lever sticking up and rubbing on the brake pedal lever, it's almost invisible BUT works great and forever.
The WIX 51515R or NAPA 1515R is a Race use filter and ( per the warning on the filter/box) Not for street use.....one has to decide the micron difference of possibly join in the Veldez clean up.
May go against the grain but I do run the WIX and Shell Rotella 30 weight diesel oil
Funny, Alan but I've been using Wix 15 or Napa51 series 'R' filters for a lot of years in all my cars including our daily drivers and have never once had a failure of a filter, oil pump or engine...twice I've blown out Fram filters in the old '55 Chevy at the strip.
I'll stick with what has worked well for me ..just sayin'...maybe I've just been lucky
After reading a similar conversation here some time ago I switched from 51515Rs to regular 51515. When I did my next oil filter change I noticed the filter had ballooned noticeably. It hadn't burst, but I could see a definite change in shape. I went back to 51515Rs.
Lane, with the burst pressure rating of the 51515 being 290psi I would be looking for restrictions (inside the hose fittings or maybe a swollen hose) downstream of the filter. There is no way your engine should be making enough oil pressure to deform that filter.
To further what I said above, maybe put an oil pressure sender just past the filter (and maybe 1 before it as well to compare) and see what the pressure is? If you have a good look inside the fittings, some really cut off the flow and could be your problem. And even stainless stell braided hose can swell internally and cut off flow if it's rubber lined (a good reason to buy the more expensive teflon lined stuff). I believe a team campaigning a 935 (late '70's or early 80's?) sold an engine cheap after the 2nd or 3rd grenade, and the new owner figured out it the hose was starving the engine. Al
I agree with Alb re: teflon oil hose, expensive, but can really save an engine or an oil spill...LOL. Not having an oil pressure gauge that you can easily see(sure it may not be period correct sitting in or under the dash) yet IMO is just asking for a problem or a whole lot of problems. Loss of oil pressure or to much oil pressure are not conducive to engine life which can result in $$$$$ or more spent and when it goes you are usually between "Wayoutback and Nowheresville", out of cell range and have your not so happy significant other with you
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