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David, I know what you are feeling. I bought my first Speedster, a 2000 VS and was pissed when my daughter told me she spotted oil dripping from under the car. Mine always came from around the sump area. My final attempt to cure it involved fitting a billet aluminum sump plate, new copper washers, gaskets and a liberal coating of a modern sealant. In spite of my efforts, it still dripped a little bit. It's just the nature of the beast. I also have a classic British bike in the garage. That sucker really leaks!
John H

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  • Bolt_No1
I'm detecting a very bad undercurrent when discussing British engineered vehicles (2 and 4 wheeled variety).

I'll accept the comments on Lucas - Prince of Darkness, but the leaking that's another thing. I have owned several cars of 60's vintage and never had any issues with leaks.

Mind you it could be that they are weeping for their home country!

Jim.
Kathy and I had a '67 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8.

Sweetest sounding car I ever owned.

Hotest drivers seat I've ever sat in (since the exhaust runs 3 inches under the seat).

Two fuses for the entire car on the firewall, and an in-line fuse for the electric fuel pump.

Neither the engine nor the transmission/Overdrive leaked after rebuilding both (Quantum Mechanics in Connecticut did the OD).

The entire car was the strangest mix of 1930's and 1960's technologies I've ever seen, but it was definitely one super-cool ride.....

I kind-of agree with George....just about ANY engine I know of can be assembled leak-free. Of course, then there is the Trabant - there's always an exception to every rule.

gn
I too had a 72 Spit with a dual barrelled 1300CC motor. Went like stink. Never leaked but loved to smack into curbs. Of course I was only 18 and I was just learning how to lean cars into the corners.

My 2003 Jaguar X-type not to change the subject has the coolest thing in it. A front windshield that has defrost wires throughout. On ice mornings, flick the switch and in 2 minutes you can wipe the water away. All cars in the north should have this. I have the Sports Package and All Weather edition. Too cool. Thanks Ford......doh.....Jag~
The engines should not leak. I just did an oil change and my drain plug leaks. The seal kits I bought have flat copper washers. The better kits use a rolled copper washer. From now on I will add a dab of silicone to all my washers during re-assembly.

When I first received my VS it leaked from number one exhaust push rod tube heavily. There looked like a small dent in the tube. I guess it happened in long block form in the shop. I pulled the head and replaced the seals. A leak from a push rod tube is usually an indication of improper or too aggressive torque of the heads during assembly. This time it was from general knocking around. I also noticed a small leak at the pressure relief valve. A dab of silicone during assembly can solve this too. Very small amounts of silicone can make a nice dry engine. Be careful not to get the silicone in any vents or channels, and clean all old rubber off before adding a new layer.

I was a proud owner of a 1972 Triumph TR6R tiger. I was able to stop that from leaking too. British seals do not like to sit for long. The Triumph had the same kind of oil screen as the VW engine, except it was on the bottom of the (frame tube) sump. Silicone was necessary. I also found that the covers on the head worked better with only a thin layer of silicone and no gasket. The aluminum seated better without a gasket. Silicone was also the only way to keep things from vibrating off. The big leak was from around the drive gear. That seal needed replacement bi-annually. Fortunately aggressive driving required a new gear and chain at the same interval.

Don't give up it can be a hobby chasing oil leaks.
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