At the connection between the muffler and the collector, I am using Permatex Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker. This was recommended by Tiger.
When removing and reinstalling the muffler, it is a bit of a nuisance to remove the old stuff from the flanges and apply new. And, as I don't do this real often, the stuff tends to harden in the tube.
Does anyone use a fiber or metal gasket in this location?
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I obviously don't have this exhaust, but a flange usually requires a gasket, no? At least that's what I was taught.
My Vintage Spyder exhaust has slip fit J-tubes. They were a tad short on my old Spyder, so I used NAPA exhaust system sealer. The new exhaust is the perfect length, the inner J-tube bottoms in the slip fit tube just as the head flanges are tight.
The stuff used is called "form a gasket". I am wondering about using something else.
Two bolt flanges should have a gasket IMHO.
There is no leakage with the form a gasket. It's just inconvenient.
I hope to hear from others with this system.
Store bought gaskets are readily available.
Having said that I use a composite metal/fiber gasket. Bought a sheet of the stuff and have on had to make one gasket in 3 years. When I die my children will wonder what this stuff is.
Never heard of using gasket sealer on a flange. Surprised it works...or does it?
The Permatex stuff I am using does work. I think Tiger, who makes the A-1 systems, says to use this instead of gaskets. I have used it on all connections on the system. The package shows an exhaust system and notes that it is sensor safe.
My issue is that it is inconvenient to remove the old stuff every time I have my muffler off. I soak it in mineral spirits which seems to soften it. Then I scrape it off with an old credit card.
It would be a lot easier to just replace a gasket if needed.
@Michael McKelvey wrote: "At the connection between the muffler and the collector, I am using Permatex Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker. "
OK, so I know that Tiger recommends using this stuff, and I know from personal experience that it works in higher temp applications, but the exhaust heat is going to cook the RTV over time, petrifying it and making it a real bear to clean up the flanges the next time. But you already know this. Besides, that RTV is designed for use with gaskets. There is a different version (410? 510? I can't remember) that is specifically made for metal flanges (It's called a "Flange Sealant") but with lower temps.
It would be much easier to take the muffler pipe with the flange on it to a NAPA store and ask for an exhaust gasket to fit the flange. I'm thinking of the metalized composite style gasket which they may have all made up, OR they also sell the stuff in bulk sheets 12" X 24" or so and you can cut out your own (be aware that cutting this stuff can be difficult at home).
That's all I've got, Mike.
I'd get a pre-cut gasket from NAPA like Gordon says.
I just got two for the 3-bolt flange on the older Spyder exhaust system muffler joint. Saturn 1.9 liter from around year 2000 fits.
What size is the hole? I use copper header flange gaskets at the head/exhaust interface. They are available from EMPI in 1.5, 1.625, and 1.75 pipe diameters. I've been using the same gaskets since 2005.
They really work well. Every 5 years or so I'll anneal them with a mapp torch.
Worst case? Buy a small sheet of copper and make one. You'll only need one the rest of your life.
Gordon & Danny, thanks for your replies. Next time I have the muffler off I will look for gaskets. That may be soon. I have been dealing with a valve cover leak and it seems to still be leaking.
I have been thinking I should have a map torch. What is the annealing procedure?
@DannyP, what kind of mapp torch do you have, one that looks like a propane torch or one with the oxygen bottle too?
Can I use my propane torch heads and just buy the mapp bottles?
Regular propane plumbing torch. I jyst use the yellow Mapp bottles. It's hotter than plain propane.
I can't remember the procedure, just look up annealing copper. I think i just heat it until it darkens a little then let it cool all by itself, no quench.
Fun fact: you can anneal hard copper pipe as well, then bend it with a tubing bender. The process is the same: heat it until it starts to glow, then either allow it to cool in air or quench it with a wet rag.
The 3-bolt collectors are generally one of two sizes: small block and big block Chevy.
