I'm going to be changing oil again when I put my Speedster to bed for the winter (probably another month or so).
For the folks who are using Brad Penn oil, is this the oil that everyone is using?
https://www.amazon.com/Brad-Pe...507400612&sr=8-2
As usual, thanks for any advice!
Bill
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I'm using Brad Penn 20/50 in a 2110cc stroker, mild cam. Seems fine. I changed from Redline 20/50 as it is a pure racing oil and I'm not racing the car or taking sustained drives much past 100 miles.
Penn makes a 15/40, and I like that. I've tried 10/30 and no matter what anybody says, it's pretty thin. My engine doesn't like 20/50 at all when temps are in the 30s or very low 40s, but it's still better than the oil in my transaxle (which is pretty-much unshiftable under 40 deg.).
If I'm on the road and I need more than I brought, I get Valvoline VR1 at any Auto-Zone. They all carry a few quarts in 20/50. It's got zinc, and it's fine in a pinch.
Having vacated my tenant farm in Upper Stanistan for the Emerald Coast, I no longer face the problematic freezing or near freezing temperatures familiar to the President and the rest of his ilk.
My gearbox shifts "like butta'" year round.
Come on down in February your excellency and I will demonstrate!
I run 10w 40 in Brad Penn or Lucas Hot Rod oil, I prefer Lucas as it's clear, just never liked green (other than Brians Speedster).
Lucas also has more ZDDP (2100 ppm) than Penn at 1600ppm (Racing Oil).
Will Hesch posted:I run 10w 40 in Brad Penn or Lucas Hot Rod oil, I prefer Lucas as it's clear, just never liked green (other than Brians Speedster).
Lucas also has more ZDDP (2100 ppm) than Penn at 1600ppm (Racing Oil).
Hmmm - maybe I'll stick with Lucas then. That's what I used for my first oil change. I was under the impression that Penn had more ZDDP. I've had no problems - engine runs cool, oil cooler seems to be operating normally, and the oil always looks fresh on the dipstick.
But Penn is also a partial synthetic where the Lucas isn't - I've always used full synthetic in our other cars, and we've never had engines issues - just love the stuff. It's killing me not to use synthetic in the Speedster, but this is my first air cooled engine, and I'd rather go with the folks advice here that know these engines far better than I ever will.
Slowshoes, around here, there's no such thing as a quick oil question.
Sacto Mitch posted:
Slowshoes, around here, there's no such thing as a quick oil question.
Lol!
How much ZDDP is proprietary information that the oil companies won't reveal. Analysis does tell how much elemental zinc and phosphorus is present, but since ZDDP is made up of more than those 2 substances, those numbers are apparently not a reliable guide. (paraphrased from someone in the industry)
Use whatever you're comfortable with, having checked that other people with similar engine combinations are using it with success. The most important thing to pay attention to here is what valve springs are being used- Musbejim gets away with whatever off the shelf, regularly available oil he uses because (I'm guessing)it is able to protect the valve train from the not so high pressures the single heavy duty valve springs develop. Now, what works in Jim's engine won't necessarily work with higher pressure singles, dual VW or even higher pressure Chevy diameter racing springs, so keep that in mind. When researching an oil online, pay attention to what the company says (read, read, read!). If it's a racing oil not suitable for the street, it has no detergents or corrosion inhibitors as part of the adpack, is designed to be changed frequently and is exactly that, NOT SUITABLE FOR THE STREET! It especially will not protect your engine while it sits for extended periods. Valvoline has 2 racing oils- VR1 Racing oil (VR1)- the copy on the information page https://www.valvoline.com/our-...r-oil/vr1-racing-oil says it's "Formulated for race engines, but compatible with passenger vehicles too.", while Valvoline Racing Synthetic (VR1) Motor Oil https://www.valvoline.com/our-...-synthetic-motor-oil says nothing about being used on the street. Doesn't mean it can't be, but you need to ask to be sure.
@slowshoes- There's no reason you can't use a full synthetic in your Speedster; you just have to pick the right one.
Yoda out (for now, but back you know I will be!
)
Slow, the only gain from synthetic (in my opinion) is that you can get away with up to 10,000 miles between changes.
...don't even think about waiting that long with these AC cars!..
and if you think 2500 is a bunch of ZDDP, Lucas break-in oil has 3,634 ppm!
and this partial synthetic has 1265 ppm zinc
...and no, I don't get a commission for any sales...
I want to share something with you guys that a REALLY wise 95 year old friend of mine told me. When he was a young man working in a gas station, most cars at the time, Model Ts and As could only go 10 to 20 thousand miles without rings and a babbitt job. One day a salesman came in for fuel with a Model T that he bought new with 50,000 miles on it and he had never touched the engine. My friend asked him what was his secret? The salesman told him he ran 10W oil year round.
I don’t know if this proves anything but my old buddy told me he never ran heavier than 5W20 or 5W30 in any of his cars and he never had any bearing trouble. His main driver was an 83 Olds with 270,000 miles on it and he never had the engine apart. I am not sure if too thin of an oil hurts anything as long as you have enough zinc for high pressure protection. I do know this, too thick weight oil can cause problems, especially in cold weather.
Someone posted (here or elsewhere) a link to a wear test in which several of our favorite oils were subjected to identical conditions. The amount of ZDDP in the mix did not have anything like a linear anti-wear effect. As I recall, the one with the most ZDDP fared among the worst.
Gonna search for the link now and repost if or when I find it.
All that said, I plan to go with the green Brad Penn 20-50 in the Spyder because the engine builder insisted on it. He was very clear about this: green oil only and none of the other styles of BP or any other brand. So that uncomplicates things for me.
EDIT: and here it is.
Edit: ...and given what this bloke has found...maybe not green Brad Penn after all. maybe Valvoline VR-1 instead.
Fpcopo VS posted:I want to share something with you guys that a REALLY wise 95 year old friend of mine told me. When he was a young man working in a gas station, most cars at the time, Model Ts and As could only go 10 to 20 thousand miles without rings and a babbitt job. One day a salesman came in for fuel with a Model T that he bought new with 50,000 miles on it and he had never touched the engine. My friend asked him what was his secret? The salesman told him he ran 10W oil year round.
I don’t know if this proves anything but my old buddy told me he never ran heavier than 5W20 or 5W30 in any of his cars and he never had any bearing trouble. His main driver was an 83 Olds with 270,000 miles on it and he never had the engine apart. I am not sure if too thin of an oil hurts anything as long as you have enough zinc for high pressure protection. I do know this, too thick weight oil can cause problems, especially in cold weather.
You bring up an interesting point, Frank; what I think some guys don't understand is that you can have all the pressure in the world, but if there is no flow to take away heat it's not doing any good. With the bearing clearances our engines are built at, 30W oil gives the "10 psi/1,000 rpm" that the industry these days feels is optimum for longevity and parts protection. It would be interesting to run a 0 or 5W20 in an engine to see how it reacts, but I suspect you'd have to increase pump size to get acceptable pressure. Al
Another benefit of synthetic is to boost EPA ratings by reducing friction - might be a concern to car companies but not so much the hat rod guys where MPG is low compared to SEG.
I've read many articles on how synthetics are superior to conventional oils. This article isn't the most recent, but it's one of the few I've found that is directly talking about using synthetic in an air cooled engine.
http://www.aircooled.net/synthetic-vw-oil/
I've never used synthetic with the purpose of extending time between oil changes. I have a 2000 bug with a 1.8t engine. Cars with this engine were having problems with oil "coking", and VW recommended using synthetic to avoid this issue. I immediately switched to Mobil 1 0w-40 and never looked back. I've owned my bug since new and have never had any issues with the engine, despite chipping the engine and driving it fairly aggressively. I went on to use synthetic in all of our cars, changing it every 4-5000 miles.
edsnova posted:Someone posted (here or elsewhere) a link to a wear test in which several of our favorite oils were subjected to identical conditions. The amount of ZDDP in the mix did not have anything like a linear anti-wear effect. As I recall, the one with the most ZDDP fared among the worst.
Gonna search for the link now and repost if or when I find it.
All that said, I plan to go with the green Brad Penn 20-50 in the Spyder because the engine builder insisted on it. He was very clear about this: green oil only and none of the other styles of BP or any other brand. So that uncomplicates things for me.
EDIT: and here it is.
Edit: ...and given what this bloke has found...maybe not green Brad Penn after all. maybe Valvoline VR-1 instead.
Thanks for the link to the article Ed - a lot of information to absorb. I'm going to keep researching, but I think I'm going to try at least a partial synthetic.
all you need in mich. is 10-30 or 15-40, do you have a seperate oil cooler? bill
buckwheat posted:all you need in mich. is 10-30 or 15-40, do you have a seperate oil cooler? bill
Bill,
Yes, I have an external oil filter and an oil cooler. 15-40 for summer, or do you use it spring and fall as well?
Bill
Any recommendations on where to buy a thermometer that will work for this?
Bill
Here's one for $70 but P.S. a $6 digital thermometer I've used for years to measure beer temps [don't ask] claims accuracy of +/- 1 degree F.
More food for thought: Most of us were trained to believe that 230F or above is TOO HOT for oil and so SHUT IT DOWN IMMEDIATELY! But it isn't so, according to the tests I linked—or the race guys who've run 270+ without panic. You lose some film strength, yeah. Maybe a lot of film strength. But it won't kill the engine very quickly.
Which leads me to another observation: everyone pretty much runs an oil cooler with a fan that's supposed to kick in at 180F. People get antsy & start making changes if they see oil temps above 200F. This seems counter-productive, as it suggests they're trying to keep their engine too cool. An un-warmed-up engine wears out faster than one that gets to operating temps, so if you're managing 180 or below you might be screwing up your longevity?
edsnova posted:Here's one for $70 but P.S. a $6 digital thermometer I've used for years to measure beer temps [don't ask] claims accuracy of +/- 1 degree F.
More food for thought: Most of us were trained to believe that 230F or above is TOO HOT for oil and so SHUT IT DOWN IMMEDIATELY! But it isn't so, according to the tests I linked—or the race guys who've run 270+ without panic. You lose some film strength, yeah. Maybe a lot of film strength. But it won't kill the engine very quickly.
Which leads me to another observation: everyone pretty much runs an oil cooler with a fan that's supposed to kick in at 180F. People get antsy & start making changes if they see oil temps above 200F. This seems counter-productive, as it suggests they're trying to keep their engine too cool. An un-warmed-up engine wears out faster than one that gets to operating temps, so if you're managing 180 or below you might be screwing up your longevity?
Look, I'm just a pipefitter from a hick-town on the rim of nowhere, but IMHO- the sweet spot is a reasonably viscous oil running between 180 and 220*. Hitting that has been pretty good for me so far.
The oiling system on a Type 1 would be hilarious if guys wouldn't defend it as the perfect and divinely revealed fruit pouring fourth from the enormous brains of the Sainted German Engineers. It's a Rube Goldberg arrangement barely better than your average Briggs and Stratton. You pick your poison.
Too thick (or too cold), and you're not getting oil everywhere you'd like. There are a lot of places where these engines rely on "splash". That's why Al advocates (a lot) for the Hoover mods.
Too thin, and you lose the film strength Ed references above. This is bad. Really, really bad.
Too hot, and the oil breaks down-- at least it did before the engineers from the hated Big Oil companies figured out how to make it much more heat tolerant. My concern with "too hot" is that it generally means "too thin" as well. I care not what anybody says- I don't want to see single-digit oil pressures at idle. The rod journals don't know whether they're in a VW or a SBC-- they'd like to have a good supply of oil to ride, rather than dropping through to the bearings.
Oil temp is serious business. It causes great consternation to me when guys say, "you pay too much attention to those gauges". Ignorance is not bliss with regards to this stuff. The fact that almost nobody monitors oil pressure is one of the great mysteries of life to me. I care WAY more about what the oil pressure is than I do about what a Micky Mouse fuel gauge estimates is in the tank (... full.... full... full... full... full... 1/4 tank... empty).
I know the question of the OP regards synthetic v dino oil, but with what we've got going on here, it may be the wrong question.
The base-stock of the oil is important, as it pertains to break-down, etc.-- and there's no question that synthetic oil is way better than dino oil.
However, in a flat-tappet engine with ridiculously heavy valve-springs, there is a LOT of pressure between the lifters and the cam lobe. Factoring in that there are about 250,000 different lifters on the market, some of which don't play well with the available cam blanks, and that cams seem to go flat with amazing regularity--- the additive-pack in the oil becomes pretty important (at least to me). As Al said above- Jim Ignacio gets away with the Hakuna Matata outlook on vehicle maintenance precisely because his engine is mild, with a mild camshaft, running mild springs.
Someday, the hobby may embrace the 1980s and figure out how to put roller cams and beehive valvesprings in these engines, but I wouldn't hold my breath. We're still running cam grinds that somebody copied off old Mopar V8s. When that day comes, I'll be the first in line to buy 8 quarts of Mobil 1 and happily motor around not thinking too much about it any more. Until then, I'm running dual valve-springs with a bazillion pounds of pressure, hammering the valve-seats and trying to wipe off the (splash lubricated) oil film between the cam lobe and the tool-steel lifter.
Do as you like. I'm running oil with zinc. I'm targeting between 180- 200* oil temp. I'm looking for 60 psi at 3000 RPM and more than 15 at idle. I'm changing oil every season. I'm hoping for the best.
I know I'm not the only guy that chuckled when they read the header on this thread: the words: quick and oil question can't be used in the same sentence, at least not with car guys.
I'm not a scientist and don't even have a science background, but I am a proficient researcher, and I did lots of research prior to installing an oil cooler and fan, since I was plagued with engine overheating in the past. Most oil sites will tell you that 180F is a high enough temperature to remove almost all of the moisture in engine oil.
As school kids, we learned that water boils at 212F at sea level. The difference in our application is that we lose moisture in engine oil by evaporation, not boiling. 180F is high enough to allow moisture in engine oil to evaporate.
As with all things automotive, you should do your own research, but be aware that differences of opinion of engine oil rank right up there with the Crusades, ethnic cleansing, Pol Pot, and Idi Amin.
- Dip stick thermometer - great to run all your own temp test, using different oils, driving conditions and weather... useful tool to get to know your engine.
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/D.../thermo-dipstick.htm
- and for road trips, great high temp warning tool
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/cl...etail.php?id=1820409
A lot of great information and advice fellas - thanks.
When using a dipstick thermometer, is that something that is taking the place of the original dipstick, and stays in place while driving? Are there any accurate temp gauges that have the same footprint as the temp gauge that comes standard on VS. Having a gauge with a real time number readout to replace the VS stock one would seem ideal.
Jim Kelly posted:As with all things automotive, you should do your own research, but be aware that differences of opinion of engine oil rank right up there with the Crusades, ethnic cleansing, Pol Pot, and Idi Amin.
I agree with this - I think that's what makes the article posted by Ed pertinent. It takes the emotion out of it, and looks at things in a repeatable, scientific way. It helps me take some my own bias out of the picture. That said, there's still a lot to be said for folks personal experiences too - which is what keeps the waters sufficiently muddied!
Bill
Thanks Bill!
Well, your mileage may vary. You can either leave it in there or use it to calibrate your dash gauge.
I bought a VW dipstick thermometer from Mainely Custom by Design (about $50 bucks), used it for a summer season to "calibrate" my color-band-only temp gauge so I kind-of know where 200º and 205º is (running temp and stop light temp), then guessed at 210º and 215º and marked the face of the gauge with a little red sticky band for 215º for when my son drives it, then put the thermometer safely in my road kit. I mean, you can't read the dipstick while you're moving so what's the point? On top of that, the numbers on the teeny-weeny, 3/4" dial are, what.....4 point font or something? You almost need a pair of binoculars to read the darn thing, way down in there.
Don't get me wrong..... It was GREAT to know what temps I was dealing with before and after installing an external oil cooler, but after never seeing it go over 205º all summer in all sorts of outside temps, I just use the electric gauge with my little red sticky thing.
Of course, now that I'm driving in much colder weather, I had to know what temp it was when the needle gets off the left stop to the little green block (170º) to at least know when it is "warmed up". That's good to know, too!
Gordon Nichols posted:Well, your mileage may vary. You can either leave it in there or use it to calibrate your dash gauge.
I bought a VW dipstick thermometer from Mainely Custom by Design (about $50 bucks), used it for a summer season to "calibrate" my color-band-only temp gauge so I kind-of know where 200º and 205º is (running temp and stop light temp), then guessed at 210º and 215º and marked the face of the gauge with a little red sticky band for 215º for when my son drives it, then put the thermometer safely in my road kit. I mean, you can't read the dipstick while you're moving so what's the point? On top of that, the numbers on the teeny-weeny, 3/4" dial are, what.....4 point font or something? You almost need a pair of binoculars to read the darn thing, way down in there.
Don't get me wrong..... It was GREAT to know what temps I was dealing with before and after installing an external oil cooler, but after never seeing it go over 205º all summer in all sorts of outside temps, I just use the electric gauge with my little red sticky thing.
Of course, now that I'm driving in much colder weather, I had to know what temp it was when the needle gets off the left stop to the little green block (170º) to at least know when it is "warmed up". That's good to know, too!
Getting to know what temps look like on the current VS gauge makes sense. Mine moves so little, I must be running ok with my oil temps - either that or I'm running hot with a defective gauge!
So normal temps are 170 - 215 then? Sounds like I'll need my extra strength reading glasses to take the readings!
Bill
@edsnova, the article in your link had me change from Brad Penn to VR-1.
Bill wrote: "So normal temps are 170 - 215 then?"
Yes. Well, the 170º is on the cool side, I like to see at least 180º when driving about. I was always told, starting way back in the 60's, that on T-1 VW engines, built or otherwise, 200º - 210º was "nice", 215º - 220º was "Gettin' up there" and 230º was "Pull over, stop, let it cool and figure out why it's running hot enough to almost seize". Gene Berg set that "pull-over temp" at 225º on his dash light dipstick sensor and I totally agree. That point of view has served me well over the years. Will it take more than 230º? Maybe, but I'm not willing to try it. Also, depending on what you have for engine cooling stuff (thermostat, proper tins, heat shields, all that) and how well that system is operating, you may not get up to 170-180º in the colder months. That can be bad, too, so knowing what it does under cold ambient is important.
The addition of an external oil cooler can modulate the temperature swings, to some degree, so you may not see the big swings of the temp needle going up or down large hills that, say, an original 356 with no external cooler sees (some can swing up to 20º delta), but it should still move around a little normally - that's just how air cooling works. Hot at the top of a long hill, cooler at the bottom.
Just like me on my bike. 
My head hurts and my eyes itch. I may drive my Tacoma more now so I can have peace of mind.
So much good info.
the dipstick thermometer served me well to get to know my engine, and pick an oil that kept my engine oil in the 180-210 temp range under all driving and weather conditions.
for my Seattle based mild cc1915 VS built engine with no additional external oil cooler, I decided on using- Summer W40, fall/Spring/Winter W30. ( not saying this is best or even recomended, just what seems to keep my engine and me happy for year round driving).
Temp range for my little T1 engine. With no external/remote oil cooler)
- 180-210 is the sweet spot
- 225 warm- slow down/pull over ( have only reached over 220 once... driving in central Oregon, after + one hour of highway speeds, +90F ambient weather driving up Mt Hood pass, with 20/50... Higher temp made me nervous. Stopped testing 20/50 after this.
When I first purchased the thermometer, and after reading as much as I could --- my brain was fried... so I just decided to run my own experiment... Tried-- 30, 40, 10/30, 10/40, 20/50... and several of the recommended vendors available at my local shop which were on sale regularly- Brad penn, Lucas, Valvoline VR1, ... oh and both conventional and synthetic blend.
after 6 months and ~10000 miles of both Oregon/Washington/ Vancouver BC road trips and around town driving testing in 2014 my generic mild 1915 VS engine seemed happiest ( consistently running: winter- 175-190F, summer 185-210F) when running VR1 conventional 30 or 40.... conventional VR1 10/30 was also great, but I still have 3 cases of 30 and 40 to burn through before I consider buying more oil.
As mentioned above... it's always best to get to know your engine and how it behaves under your driving and weather conditions. Then pick what is both available near you and makes your engine happiest. (and/or what your local mechanic recommends after he gets to know your engine. My local guys all push straight 30W... and recently all started pushing the VR1).
happy hunting... this is all part of the madness!!!
Lfepardo posted:So much good info.
the dipstick thermometer served me well to get to know my engine, and pick an oil that kept my engine oil in the 180-210 temp range under all driving and weather conditions.
for my Seattle based mild cc1915 VS built engine with no additional external oil cooler, I decided on using- Summer W40, fall/Spring/Winter W30. ( not saying this is best or even recomended, just what seems to keep my engine and me happy for year round driving).
Temp range for my little T1 engine. With no external/remote oil cooler)
- 180-210 is the sweet spot
- 225 warm- slow down/pull over ( have only reached over 220 once... driving in central Oregon, after + one hour of highway speeds, +90F ambient weather driving up Mt Hood pass, with 20/50... Higher temp made me nervous. Stopped testing 20/50 after this.
When I first purchased the thermometer, and after reading as much as I could --- my brain was fried... so I just decided to run my own experiment... Tried-- 30, 40, 10/30, 10/40, 20/50... and several of the recommended vendors available at my local shop which were on sale regularly- Brad penn, Lucas, Valvoline VR1, ... oh and both conventional and synthetic blend.
after 6 months and ~10000 miles of both Oregon/Washington/ Vancouver BC road trips and around town driving testing in 2014 my generic mild 1915 VS engine seemed happiest ( consistently running: winter- 175-190F, summer 185-210F) when running VR1 conventional 30 or 40.... conventional VR1 10/30 was also great, but I still have 3 cases of 30 and 40 to burn through before I consider buying more oil.
As mentioned above... it's always best to get to know your engine and how it behaves under your driving and weather conditions. Then pick what is both available near you and makes your engine happiest. (and/or what your local mechanic recommends after he gets to know your engine. My local guys all push straight 30W... and recently all started pushing the VR1).
happy hunting... this is all part of the madness!!!
Thanks for your real world test results and what the temps you should start thinking about pulling over - particularly relevant to me as I have the same engine, though I do have the cooler and external filter.
Al posted earlier that he wasn't sure if the Valvoline VR1 was compatable for the street. I went on the Valvoline website and it does look like it is compatable for street use:https://sharena21.springcm.com...11-9c10-ac162d889bd3
The search continues....
Do all those oils have zinc ?
buckwheat posted:lok at the rating on the bottle, if it says sn that means no zinc. bill
Bill and Jean Demeter
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Just to add to the confusion:https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq
If you read the Porsche site for vintage oil for AC cars they have some interesting notes but then they sold a wack of that oil right out of the gate.
@Gordon Nichols wrote-
"...and 230º was "Pull over, stop, let it cool and figure out why it's running hot enough to almost seize". Gene Berg set that "pull-over temp" at 225º on his dash light dipstick sensor..."
A lot of good info there, Gordon. Although almost all oils available for the last 40 or so years are capable of sustaining considerably higher temperatures, a couple things happen when temps get that hot. First, depending on the airflow through the engine compartment, when oil temps get up past 215 or 220' the air the engine is ingesting is hot enough that the tune is now running quite rich and and the engine is noticeably down in power. All that heat that the engine sheetmetal is radiating when you pull over after a hard run and open the engine compartment? The cooling system and carbs have been ingesting preheated air, so the cooling system can't absorb as much heat (it becomes a vicious circle, the engine getting hotter and hotter) and the carbs can't compensate for the warmer air. Although at times I feel like I'm preaching to the wind, this is why I keep talking about airflow through the engine compartment. The heat that's radiating off the engine needs to be removed from the engine bay so the engine has access to cooler air!
The other thing that's happening is the magnesium engine case is getting really close to it's upper operating temperature limits. When oil temps get this hot (225'+), the case gets hot enough that a couple drops of water or spit on it will sizzle. Run an engine continually under these conditions for long enough and, as well as pistons/cylinders and heads being bagged, the case may no longer hold it's shape.
Somewhere in Gene Berg's writings he talked about reading specs on the magnesium alloys used in cases, and how surprised he was at how fragile the material was. This didn't come into play with the original 25, 36, or even 40hp engines, but with the power hotrodders were making (and engine temps they were sometimes having to deal with) it was obvious to him that a really hot running engine was seriously overheating and stressing the case material. Even line boring during a rebuild doesn't save some cases, as they won't hold their dimensions. Gene mentioned a rebuilt offroad racing engine by FAT Performance being down on power on the dyno and the fix was a new engine case.
The very first 25hp engine cases were cast from aluminum, and the vintage hotrodders love them. Even with being more expensive to cast and the increased machining costs, it's not hard to understand why VW went back to aluminum for the type 4 case material. Al
PS- @slowshoes - The Valvoline 10W30 NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil didn't have enough detergents or anti- corrosion agents for the street, and was the strictly racing oil. It has been discontinued. The VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) and VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil (black bottle) are available, have detergent/anti-corrosion adpacks for the street and both fared quite well in 540 Ratblog's oil wear protection test.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.c...l-wear-test-ranking/
