Quick Release Fuel Pipe Coupler Connector with Shut-Off Valve

This looks like a marine use part. Is it ?  Where do you buy it ?.............Bruce

Looks like West Marine has something similar

https://www.westmarine.com/buy...13854245?recordNum=1

Hi @aircooled, I've not bought anything yet. In the UK, these are sold for marine use (as per @Gordon Nichols response above) and also motorcycle use. Given those both use fuel (diesel/petrol) then I presumed it would be fine for non-pressurised car systems. They're a similar price in the UK (around £12), so I think I'll get one and see how it goes. I'll report back at some point to let you know what it's like.

@Martin's Eleven (UK)

Great idea on using that quick-connect on your fuel tank. Let us know (with pics if you would) how your project turns out!

Yeah, I wish I used those on my gas heater fuel line instead of just a 1/4" shut-off.  You don't pull them apart often, but boy......    When you need to they're great!

Wish I thought of these. Should be standard equipment on the bottom of Speedster and Spyder tanks.

They look kind of like keg beer fittings.

@Martin's Eleven (UK) posted:

Does anyone have any experience of these, positive or negative?  Or similar?

Thanks,
Martin

Don't buy plastic ones and make sure they're rated for fuel.

98-2003(?) Triumphs came with plastic ones nd they eventually did a recall because they always started leaking after 2-3 years.

The Triumph replacements are stainless steel.

I replaced mine with these before the Triumph recall.

https://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Qu...ct-Kit/dp/B01BI7UGXY

Thanks @dlearl476 - I guessed metal ones would be more reliable (if built correctly) but ultimately they're still only as good as the o-rings providing the seal. Given that, generally speaking, we replica owners tend to look after our cars better and more regularly than modern motors, we would service those o-rings every 2 years or so anyway, or at least would ckeck for seepage at these connectors during regular servicing.

Being UK-based, our options tend to be more limited than you guys in the US, but I will look for other options.

@MusbJim Of course I'll post a write-up with pics once I do this. I'm still in a plaster cast after wrist surgery so I'm using this time to get my ducks in a row for when I'm able to be a two-handed car mechanic again.

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These could be a good idea for anyone who parks their car unused for months at a time - an easy way to run the fuel system completely dry.

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I already have a Briggs & Stratton shutoff which would allow me to run the system dry.

But, would be nice to have the shutoff to make it easy to remove the tank.

I found metal ones with a barb fitting on both sides in various sizes on Amazon.

The more I dig into this, the more wary I get. One seller of the plastic coupler states 'Not for use on pressurised systems.' So even though we're running only 2-3psi for Dellortos, that's 'pressurised' in my book.

Another seller says 'For low pressure systems only (non fuel injection).' As above, 2-3psi is pretty low pressure, therefore one could argue it's safe. One could also argue it would be fine if it's water, but given it's petrol - maybe not so safe.

Most seem to be made for motorbikes where the fuel is simply gravity fed. So I'll keep looking for metal versions, even if they only cut off in one direction (that's still good enough).

If you install it under the tank before the fuel pump there's no pressure on it. Or anyway, almost none—just whatever is generated by having gas in the tank.

It's the same thing for a fuel return line from the fuel injection rail: it's open at the tank end so pressure is de minimis.

@edsnova posted:

If you install it under the tank before the fuel pump there's no pressure on it. Or anyway, almost none—just whatever is generated by having gas in the tank.

It's the same thing for a fuel return line from the fuel injection rail: it's open at the tank end so pressure is de minimis.

I was thinking the same thing, but did not post for a couple of reasons:

I've been uncomfortable with this device from the first post. It's really just a quick release valve, and relies on o-rings and a check ball (one would hope made of stainless steel, but who knows) to shut off the flow when disconnected. I'd be really concerned about the ethanol in fuel degrading these o-rings to the point of leaking, and also about the ethanol compromising the phenolic the body is made of.

Secondly, what is the flow rating of this device? I'd suspect it's greatly undersized to support 150 hp (+/-). Judging from the size of the housing, I can't imagine it flows anywhere near the capacity of an uninterrupted hose. I'd want to know the flow rating before I put a giant restriction in the fuel line.

Maybe I just worry a lot, and maybe there's no issue at all with either concern, but I wouldn't want to be the guinea pig.

FWIW, these are available at CB Performance for less than $20, and they work.

I have been using a plastic Briggs & Stratton fuel shut-off for several years with no problems yet.

I used the same plastic Briggs and Stratton valve on my old heater. I think Cory is still using it, but maybe not, I can't remember. It was in my car for 8 years without incident.

I do agree with Stan on the possibility of a flow issue with respect to the quick-connect.

I don't have a valve on my new car, and don't plan to install one. If I need to drain the tank, I'll let gravity do it's job into the two 5 gallon containers I already have.

I simply don't need to remove the tank that often for it to be a problem.

Like Danny, I used a 1/4" plastic shut-off valve on the fuel line to my gas heater, too.  

Not sure I would want to use the quick-connects, though, for all of the reasons already mentioned.  When I had them on a simple boat gas tank they tended to be a PITA after a while.

A brass shutoff valve, like Stan posted above, with a threaded coupler would be safer and convenient albeit you'd have to unscrew it but that to me would be a non-issue.

@Stan Galat - I'm leaning towards your view. Backed up by this thread on a motorbike forum specifially discussing flow rates, or rather lack of flow rate..

On my bikes, I simply use the standard fuel tap and pull the hose off the end if I need to remove the tank completely.

Apologies but I often pose these questions to play devils advocate, generate discussion, pick the best brains and end up with a qualified, reasoned answer one way or the other. Thanks for all your contributions.

"Apologies but I often pose these questions to play devils advocate, generate discussion, pick the best brains and end up with a qualified, reasoned answer one way or the other."

Boy, have we got you fooled....

Seriously, though....   No reason for apologies.  We're all on here to learn from each other, even if we do, at times, get into "information overload".  

God gave us wooden golf tees so we could use the broken ones to plug fuel lines while we do work on the fuel systems.

I have a pair of needle-nose vice-grips with a couple pieces of copper tubing wedged over the jaws. It makes a convenient non-destructive clamp for fuel hose.

No damage to hose, I believe there is a tool sold that does the same thing.

Call me old-fashioned, but I put a filter just downstream of the tank, connected with a short section of hose I can reach from under the car. If I have to pull the tank, a rare occurrence, I can pinch the hose with a small set of vice grips while I pull the hose off the filter and plug the end.

Filters: I install a all metal NAPA Gold filter at the tank and a secondary filter where the hard line exits the left frame horn and support that filter / line with a fabricated 3/4" x 6" steel strap bracket mounted to the side of the trans.

What is the reason for using two filters?

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@Michael McKelvey posted:

What is the reason for using two filters?

The same reason we check the gear lever for neutral twice, before hitting the starter.

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@Jethro posted:

God gave us wooden golf tees so we could use the broken ones to plug fuel lines while we do work on the fuel systems.

...and on that note, the game was named 'Golf' because 'F*CK' was already taken!