For those of you that have a QuickJack,  which capacity do you have?

Normally, I would think the 3500# version would be the one to get.  But, Costco has the 5000# one on sale for $999.99.  I am wondering if it fits the Speedster.  It looks like it is a little longer than the 3500# version.

1957 CMC (Speedster) in Ann Arbor, MI

Original Post

Wel, consider two things:

1.  Yes, the 5500# is slightly longer than the 3500# version and that is a good thing if you're trying to line up with the jack points of a VW pan.  The 3500 comes up a little short so I just use a 2 X 4 across the rear.  The 5500 would probably be long enough to hit all four corners better.

2.  If you get the 5500, you can use it for your daily drivers for things like tire rotations and stuff without worrying about lift capacity.

I can't remember that lift that Alan Merklin had, but that one lifted even higher and you could drive over it.

@Gordon Nichols Nichols, thanks for your reply.  I lift my Speedster in front under the vertical frame piece that supports the doors.  In the rear, I support it at the original VW jack points.  I have a thick aluminum pad at all 4 points.  I have a 928 jack that has a bump that fits into holes in the aluminum blocks.  This jack is compact and lightweight.

The heaviest of my cars is about 3000# so I could use the 3500# unit for my daily drivers.  But, it doesn't seem to be available for less than the 5000# unit from Costco.

I think Alan had a scissor lift.  It would raise the car higher than the QuickJack but you would not have the same freedom of movement under the car. 

"I turn them 90 degrees and pick up the jack points."

THAT, my friend, is clever.   Why didn't I think of that??

Of course, you have to make room on the far side as the car will move sideways a little when lifted, but that's pretty easy to figure out.


I'm gonna try that out tomorrow while it continues to rain here in the saturated Northeast.

Mike, the 3500 frame is physically shorter than the 5500 frame so getting it to fit the four usual jack points (front corners of the footwells, rear corners under the torsion arm ends) is really hard so I catch the front corner points and then run a 2 X 4 across under the car and just behind the dips in the floor pans.  the 2 X 4 spreads the weight and I see no pan distortion when lifting.

I would think that the 5500 length would suit the car jack points better IF the frames are run front-to-back on both sides.

Now, if you were to turn the 3500 90ยบ and lift across the pan rather than front to back, you can perfectly pick up the recommended jack points.  Makes a lot of sense and I'm STILL wondering why I never thought of that......

Ray, I'll try calling them tomorrow and see if I can get a new set of connectors.  Must have belched out a quarter of a quart last time I used it.

On my IM with frame the quickjack original 3500 not the XL unit fits perfectly between the wheels on the left side and the right side of the car along the frame edge following the inside or the rocker panels 

I know the XL 3500 or 5000 are a bit longer and might only work if used aligned with the windshield frame.  

As to the quick connectors I would tell them how long you have had it and how long they have leaked. 

In their instruction videos they suggest we lock the jacks then we release all the hydraulic pressure then disconnect the connectors.  I take it this prevents some oozing. 

"I am wondering if people use jack stands after getting the car lifted with the QuickJack."


That was one of the first things my Dad taught me when working on anything that could fall and maim/kill me - Put a support under it to safely keep it where it's supposed to be.  It takes maybe a minute to get jack stands under it.  I can afford to take a minute.

Ray wrote:  "In their instruction videos they suggest we lock the jacks then we release all the hydraulic pressure then disconnect the connectors.  I take it this prevents some oozing. "

Well, Real Men don't read instructions.   

It would be nice if the quik-connects were adjustable, somehow.  I'll give them a call right after I finish rebuilding my back deck.  Keeping me kinda busy right now, in between showers.

Here's old thread on the 3500 model:

I bought mine for $800 delivered to my door (no tax).  It was an "open box" item and the prior year model.  Apparently the safety lock was changed to be easier to release in newer model.  It had a few scratches that I attribute to shipping.  If I recall it has a shorter warranty.

I don't see any deals on eBay for the QuickJack.

2 documents the manual and the schematic..... Here is the original 3500 Quickjack and the dimensions shown allows you to know how much of a wheel base this would fit under.  On my IM it is the perfect fit between the wheels Front and back that is... @Gordon Nichols  I am not sure how long the pan is so maybe you could chime in and tell us if it fits that way for you Gordon.   




quick jack bl3500


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F0BE13FD-CEFF-49D1-8607-C471CFBEE999BTW, I used a 2x6 and filled in the slot of the quickjack and then bought higher sized rubber from QJ and It allowed me to space or keep the frame edges away from the car frame and belly pan.  Why?  Otherwise the jack side frame can hit your floor.  This makes the jack work like a charm... 


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Shoot, that leak's nuthin'!

Mine looked like a tributary of the Red Sea, but in reference to the Quikjack user manual, my connections leaked most AFTER I had the car on jackstands and relieved the HD pressure, almost like the air pressure cylinders were pushing it out.  Almost nothing at the pump, LOTS at the frame connections.  Can't remember if it was both side or just one.

The system seems to like the hoses connected just one way between the frames and pump.  If I turn the hoses around and swap ends it leaks more one way than the other.  I think I marked the ends with a Magic Marker to always get them right but noticed after the last "Red Sea Flood" that they were bass-ackwards.

I'll play with it and figure out what's going on and then call QJ to vent a little.  Just finished my deck rehab so now I have time for this.

Oh!  And yours looks about the same length as mine.  I can catch the front jack points, or the rear jack points but they're too short to reach both.  Chris' 996 is a lot longer (and the floor looks flimsy) so we totally gave up on that.  On Pearl, I line up on the rear jack points (under the torsion bar end castings with a 2 X 4 ) and then run another 2 X 4 under the front floor pans (where it's a lot lighter and the floor is flat) and it lifts up nicely.  It won't reach the front points in this diagram.  I end up about 6" behind the front bulkhead of the footwells, but I believe the center of gravity of the car is about in the middle of the jack frames.



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You know maybe someone here would buy that older unit off of you.   I think it works well and you could get a longer XL unit and it might do both your car and your sons. 

FWIW, I would go for the 5000XL with the 911 that is heavier much heavier.   

FYI, for under $1K you could get a 5000XL delivered to your door open box by calling the company and insisting you want to get it from them.   I can spend your money very easy  

@Lane Anderson the 3500# unit is 62" overall and the 5000# unit is 70" overall. Here are all the dimensions: 

@IaM-Ray you say "Look at the space between the wheels that is the critical measurement".  Using their method of measurement I got a 60" tire spread measurement and they say I need 62" for the 3500# unit.  I am not sure how accurate my measurement was.  Is this only an issue if you want to slide the frames under from outside the car?  Could the longer 5000# unit be used if it was under the car before being slid into position?

Lane if you look at my car the quickjack is nearly touching the front wheel and still has a few inches after the jack to reach the rear tire.  I store them away and I placed them from the outside and then push them in and locate the jack points and place the rubber pads to lign up with them so that when the jack goes up it will be at the right place.   The front of the car is to the right in the pict below and thus the ladders swing to the right when they extend and raise 21 inch or so.  This is the 3500 NON XL.



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@Gordon Nichols, The spots where I want to lift are between the tires and the 5000# unit won't fit there.  Previously I asked, without response, about the need for the QuickJack to fit between the wheels  "Is this only an issue if you want to slide the frames under from outside the car?  Could the longer 5000# unit be used if it was under the car before being slid into position?"

Maybe I will look for alternate places to lift.

Thanks for continuing the conversation.

Remember that it will rock to one side or the other moving over maybe 18 inches.. so make sure you set it on a side that has room   

Actually, the first time you lift you have to check that the QJ sides do not hit your car either so good Rubber pads  are important to clear the areas.

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