Yup, that’s the problem.  

Lift points are about 16” too short for the 996, plus there’s one helluva lot of weiht on that rear lift section with a 996 unless you shift the lift CG back and then the car lift points are fragile.  More thought required there.

Leaks are fixed.  Changed to AN6 connections.  No leaks. 

Chris will probably end up with a 4-poster.  He has more headroom than I do.

Where I would like to use as lift points are the points right under the rear torsion bar end mounts (the cast iron parts that the end caps bolt to) and in the front, the front outside corners of the footwells, where the body bolts to the pan corners.  That would put the QJ just inside of the tires at the front and just ahead of the tire at the rear.  When I get some time I’ll get out there and play with it to see if I can get a better system for doing this.  It’s a good lift, but I haven’t used it enough to figure this stuff out fully (yet).  

Offer her a bunch of shelving installed in exchange.

Yes, Ray, the hoses are permanently attached at the lift ends only.  Those were the ends that leaked, not at the pump.  So I disconnect at the pump and store the lifts on the floor under the car with the hoses coiled up at one end of the lifts.  I did that even with the quik connects, anyway, so what the heck.  QJ was giving me excuses and the AN fittings were $30 with my business discount so this is the cheapest alternative.

Come to think of it, when we built those 4 BendPak lifts in SC, all of the air fittings for the safety latches were junk, too.  We ended up getting a bunch of new fittings at Lowes which didn’t leak and worked great - Can’t remember who made them.

I have been using my QuickJack now.

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I am lifting near the rear of the pan and under the vertical tube in front of the door.  I have aluminum blocks there to work with my 928 jack.  In the rear, I filled in above the aluminum block with epoxy paste.

Currently, I have the frame designated right on the right side and the designated left on the left.  This puts the hoses in the rear near the engine and makes it a little difficult to roll under the car at that end. I am thinking about rotating them 180 degrees with the left frame on the right and the right frame on the left.

Does any else do that?

The first time I lowered the frames, pushed them to the center, and drove off, I made the mistake of leaving the rubber blocks in place.  They caught under the car and dragged the frames along.

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I've messed around with mine exiting the lines front (best, for me) and rear    and either will work so long as the safety stop lever is on the outside where you can get at it.  Fortunately, all the stuff you need to get at is at the front or rear of the car - not too much going on in the middle, usually.

The biggest thing to not screw up is to have both of them reasonably parallel to each other once located so they lift equally and in the same direction.  If one is a little off, they'll let you know with complaining creaks and groans on the way up (I think it's the sound of the rubber blocks sliding slightly to try to maintain position).  They don't have to be dead nuts parallel, but eyeball close.

Hey, what is that piece of gray PVC pipe behind the rocker panels for?  You got some trick undercarriage "glow lights" under there??

When I added my cylinder head temperature and air/fuel gauges I needed to run more wires from back to behind the dash.  I didn't want to disturb the carpet so I ran the PVC conduit.  I used elbows with removable covers to make it easier to pull wires.  Currently, I have one flat multi-conductor cable in it.

I am still trying to get my cruise control to work.  I selected a wireless switch so I wouldn't have to run additional wires front to back for the cruise.  Typically, the wireless switch would be on the steering wheel and the receiver would be behind the dash.  I have the receiver in the engine compartment.  The switch does communicate over that distance when the car is not running.  I don't know if the engine running caused interference or if I have some other problem.

I bought a quickjack and sold it without ever taking it out of the packaging. I figured it would take up to much of my garage space to have it just laying around and had heard about leaks and other mods that may be needed to get it to fit under the frame well. 

If I find the urge to get under the car for any extended length again I think I'll consider using four 1,100 lb rated screw type motor cycle jacks. Just as much lift I think with appropriate pads underneath, they take up much less floor space in use and in storage and they're quite portable and more versatile at about 1/3 the price. 

Michael anything that is dependant on airwaves for controllers I do not enjoy using in my car as I find the performance always sporadic.   I hardwired it in. 

BTW I dislike bluetooth as well on all devices and phones as well. Just frustrating except maybe Apple's new chip that is auto reload.  My Bose wireless are continually reloading during a call it is no fun. 

The cat's meow would be a four post lift but at times you would still need a center jack that spans to lift the front or back and you still can't do the between the wheels easily so nothing is perfect but maybe David has the right idea but then I can see him running from one side to the other to make sure it goes up smoothly and evenly

Ah what a wonderful life.  

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