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I have a 2 years ago Quick Jack - they made a change to the safety bar (just to make it  little easier to use).  I had to call and ask about "last years" open box model - but think I got it for $799 shipped.  It had a couple normal shipping scratches but was never used.

Rusty - I've been looking at these similar $39.99 ramps from Harbor Freight (20% less with their coupon).  The ramp par is detachable so it give more working room once vehicle is up on them.

Magnum-16000 Auto Ramp Set with Built-In Safety Chock

DAVRIC 67722 Magnum-16000 Auto Ramp Set with Built-In Safety Chock

I have had an assortment of ramps over the years, and they're OK and that's about it.  Besides, Pearl sits low enough that I can't get the wheel onto the ramps before the ramps hit the the underside of the body.  

So I recently got a Quickjack 3500 for Pearl, and I love it.  Goes from fully flat to fully up in about ten seconds and the lock bars are really beefy, stopping at half and then fully extended.   I'm still getting used to it and have a couple of things to do to make it easier to use and remain safe but it is everything they claim.

if you are thinking of one and can afford it, get the 5,500# capacity one so you can use it for your daily driver, too!

 

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Last edited by Gordon Nichols

I bought some cheap hard plastic ramps that will fit under the Speedster and also the Mazda (front wheel drive, of course).  Work great.  Good for oil changes.  While they will work for the front of the speedy, not so much for the rear, where most of the action is.  I use my old floor jack and jack stands, the old fashioned way,  What I really want is Ed Erickson's gantry lift, so you just stand under and do your thing.  Man do I want that.

I'm beginning to feel that the best place to store the jacks (one for each side) is right under the car, just pushed together so the wheels don't hit them.  Connecting the hoses to the lifts after the lifts are under the car is a PITA - there isn't that much extra hose to easily reach around and connect them under the car.  Instead, I can leave the hoses connected and coiled out of the way (and put a plastic bag over the quik-connect ends) and just push the lifts together in the middle, under the car.  Then, when I want to lift it I can just pull the lifts from the middle out to the sides of the car, line them up, connect the pump to the hoses and lift away.  Makes it easy and solves the "where do I store the lifts" problem to boot.

Gordon, I've been looking at those myself.  Now that my car is fairly well sorted I start looking for a lift.  Story of my life.  Do it the hard way first, then you know what not to do.

I need something that I can drag out of the way , or stand up against the wall.  Probably the most important thing is, can you pluck the engine out using the ATV jack without fiddling around with the last 2 or 3 inches to roll the engine out?  I'm pretty tired of the jack stand thing.

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