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There is no substitution for a front mount cooler, upright and shrouded, with ducting to direct air.  I've replaced several other builders cooling systems due to inadequate cooling.  We have our components special made and do not offer an "off the shelf" system, and retro-fit would take some good fab work, but I can probably help with some of the components if needed.

Rodnhouston,

As someone who spent an inordinate amount of time trying to figure out how to cool a Subi turbo engine in one of our replicas, I suggest that you follow up with Carey at SE.  They are the resident experts on radiator shape, type, and placement, along with fans and shrouds.  Doing it on your own is a real PITA.  Best of luck and please keep the group  informed on your progress.

Carey's your man if you're not building it yourself. And maybe even after you do build it yourself!

One of our number, David Stroud, did a DIY Sube swap in a pan Based speedster about 7 years ago. As I recall he used a Saab radiator of late '80s vintage, laid almost flat in front of the beam, and ducted air into it on top. He had aluminum spars from a hang glider, 1.5 inches OD, carrying the coolant up and back from the rear. There were a number of bleeders places at the high points to allow trapped air out.

When I swapped a 2.2 into my MG TD replica I modeled my system on his. The MG has a front grill and room for a proper upright rad, so I used one from a Honda Civic. 1.5 aluminized exhaust pipe tucked up tight under the channels along the outer edges of the pan.

Bleeders from a steam/hot water home heating system. . . .

One key factor to understand is that the Suby thermostat works kinda backwards, and it absolutely must have the heater core loop in place and operational in order to work. You can delete the heater core and just loop the fluid back, but you can't omit that loop.

There are several other key factors, most of which I probably don't really understand. @chines1 absolutely does understand them.

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