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I have always been told to NEVER run coilover shocks on the rear of an air cooled VW die to the rear towers not being nearly strong enough..... I have had over 50 in the past, currently still own 4 but I have never run coilovers. I have seen quite a few 356 based VWs with coilovers on the rear. Those of you that have coilovers, are you running these in addition to the torsion springs? If so why? When you are actually running less weight than the original VW. Or

Are you running Heimjoint torsion eliminators?

Have you added supports to the rear towers?

Just curious to the thoughts behind this.



Thanks.

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I have been in the VW hobby on and off since 1974 and always been of the understanding that with it's torsion bars adjusted properly, a VW (especially a street car) doesn't need any more spring, front or back.  The odd time I've seen coilovers they've been cheap blister packed products on a baja bug or offroad buggy, most rode like crap and there was usually the question of whether simply adjusting the torsion bars for the ride height would do the trick and provide a better ride.  The exception would be a heavier modified baja bug with bigger back tires where instead of the cheap springs on the cheap shocks that are usually available (which would provide the lift that was looked for but rode like sh*t), slightly thicker Sway A Way torsion bars and decent shocks would be much more appropriate.

If one was to eliminate the torsion bars completely and go to properly tuned (note those last 2 words) coilover/shock assemblies I see it, but don't know if there would be any measurable advantage on the street. Kevin at Coolryde Customs has done this with his Mendeola front and rear suspension systems and claims far superior ride and handling (which in part is probably from the wider wheels/tires used at both ends) and much easier adjustability, but at $6,000 ($3400 front, 25-2700 rear) plus installation and more for wheels and tires to get the most out of it, not many replica Speedster owners have made the jump.  I could see going with the front A-arm assembly, but I'm not convinced that his rear suspension would be that much better than a narrowed irs/wider tire/properly shocked set up.

While I've never heard of anybody breaking the rear shock towers (not to say it hasn't been done, I've just never seen it), for any performance driving a kafer bar tying the tops of the towers together and triangulating down to the frame horns and maybe even the torsion bar tube is a good idea.  And if you do a kafer bar and are worried about the added weight you could do this

lightened rear shock tower left side

it doesn't totally negate the weight gain, but I did remove just over 1½ pounds per side and (I think) it looks really cool!

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Last edited by ALB

Why am I suddenly hungry for some Swiss cheese?

ALB....Exactly my thoughts and observations. Thanks for you input. I have been VW before I even purchased my first one in 86 at 15 yrs old. Since then I have had over 60 VWs, not all air cooled.

And I need to go make a grilled cheese sandwich now.



Hahhahaha

Ok, you're both really funny!

Time to go back to bed- it's 05:30.  I've got to go to work in a couple of hours and I've already been up far too long.  This getting old and having to pee in the middle of the night sucks...

Last edited by ALB

I agree with all that has been said but have an outlier to this. I bought a 1977 Puma GTE a few years ago and for reasons unknown to me the car came with what I think are cheap coil over shocks on all 4 corners front and back. When I saw this setup I wondered why the heck this was done.  I still can only guess that the previous owner didn't know how to adjust the ride height properly and spent the money on parts and labor to install the 4 bug pack type coil over shocks.  The interesting thing is the car turned out to have one of the best rides I have experienced compared to the 15 or so VW's or VW based vehicles I have owned. So, I left the coil overs on and am going with don't fix it if it isn't broken approach. I know what I have posted is of little value to the original question but thought some may find it interesting. Have a great week!

  Sorry the pic posted is the best I have showing the front coil overs. The bent kafer bar was by design to clear part of the exhaust header.

Puma rancho Pro comp rhino trans installed 1Puma type4 under carriage paint 3Puma 7-25-2020 1A

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  • Puma 7-25-2020 1A
Last edited by Jimmy V.

Just to clarify, I think attachment of the torsion housing along whats is normally an open span form the end to the center, is much more important.  I've seen unsupported tubes, literally, twist along this span.  Normally the load is translated to the center where the splines are welded in, but with coilovers you're moving that load out to the ends and that is a lot of weight on an 18' lever if not supported.

@Jimmy V. posted:

I agree with all that has been said but have an outlier to this. I bought a 1977 Puma GTE a few years ago and for reasons unknown to me the car came with what I think are cheap coil over shocks on all 4 corners front and back. When I saw this setup I wondered why the heck this was done.  I still can only guess that the previous owner didn't know how to adjust the ride height properly and spent the money on parts and labor to install the 4 bug pack type coil over shocks.  The interesting thing is the car turned out to have one of the best rides I have experienced compared to the 15 or so VW's or VW based vehicles I have owned. So, I left the coil overs on and am going with don't fix it if it isn't broken approach. I know what I have posted is of little value to the original question but thought some may find it interesting. Have a great week!

Puma rancho Pro comp rhino trans installed 1Puma type4 under carriage paint 3Puma 7-25-2020 1A

That is BEAUTIFUL.... good to hear another side.

Keep that that thing in the road and drive it to the end.

Thanks !!!

@chines1 posted:

Just to clarify, I think attachment of the torsion housing along whats is normally an open span form the end to the center, is much more important.  I've seen unsupported tubes, literally, twist along this span.  Normally the load is translated to the center where the splines are welded in, but with coilovers you're moving that load out to the ends and that is a lot of weight on an 18' lever if not supported.

Good points.

Thank you.

@ALB, I get up to pee as many as 5 times during the night but I have never thought to check into the SOC website when I do it.  I think you should cut back on the habit a bit.

Yeah. If I get up, I keep it dark in the house, pee, then directly back to bed. More sleep that way, plus it's easier to fall asleep if it stays dark and quiet. I don't look at my computer or phone for about an hour before bed. This helps you fall asleep as well.

Do you have sleep apnea Al, maybe undiagnosed?

Last edited by DannyP
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