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Here is Teds old post.

https://www.speedsterowners.co...-new-ignition-switch

To install the Bosch classic switch installed in many 356 and our cars. ( same switch and key shape minus the Porsche logo on the key.. sold at NLA, Stoddard, Sierra Madre, and most local NAPA/ Oreleys, Autozone).   http://www.bosch-classic.com/e...er_03423090xx_1.html

in short;

The existing Chinese VS switch has 4 terminals on back, 5 wires (two wires run to a single terminal) that read as follows: BAT, ACC, IGN, ST.  5th wire- accessories not shown/ not connected.
125B5CCA-06AC-4E8C-9905-E351BF8BC4D5
New Bosch- classic switch
0138E843-75E4-4143-9B18-C370F9E5CB4D
50 = Starter Control
75 = Acc (radio, cig lighter)
15 = Ignition
30 = Battery
side note: Leaving one 30 empty ( like in picture above) ; If you install as pictured the headlights will only work when you have the key in ACC or RUN position. Saves battery if you occasionally forget to turn the lights off.   If you move the headlight wire to terminal 30, the headlight switch will always be hot and you can turn on the lights without the key.



ALSO-  size of the switch hole.

Chinese switch hole will likely be a little smaller than the hole you will need to install the new Bosch switch.  Some light sanding by hand of the inside of the hole should be enough to increase the opening diameter of the hole.   You can also use a small drimmel sanding tool- if you have a stray hand.  I did it by hand with some light grid paper... I preferred to go slow — until I could easily slide in the new switch.

What to do;

VS wiring/ Chinese switch ( pictured top) to Bosch picture below)

30 goes to battery---  two thick red cables
15 goes to ignition-- thin black
50 goes to starter-- thin red cable
75 ... goes to radio/ lighter if you have one... the above VS Chinese picture picture does not have a wire connected/5th accessories wire not shown.

Hope this is useful.

cheers

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Last edited by Lfepardo

The other thing to add is you'll need to cut off the ring terminals and strip a short section to use the set-screw arrangement of the new switch. I tinned the very ends of my wires, I find this gives you a good place to set the set-screw, and prevent fraying.

Don't use too much solder, you don't want it to wick up under the insulation.

And put a towel down for when the solder drips and splatters, it doesn't come out of carpet.

I saw the title of the thread and got all excited to come share my knowledge. Someone beat me to it! 

I used the Bosch ignition switch from Sierra Madre with the more period correct bezel. You'll need the fancy C shaped wrench to tighten the bezel.  I was pretty happy with the upgrade, plus it gave me an extra key in the process.

@TRP posted:

I saw the title of the thread and got all excited to come share my knowledge. Someone beat me to it! 

I used the Bosch ignition switch from Sierra Madre with the more period correct bezel. You'll need the fancy C shaped wrench to tighten the bezel.  I was pretty happy with the upgrade, plus it gave me an extra key in the process.

But have you drilled any holes in those keys- that is the question!

@ALB posted:

And we don't really have to wonder how you figured that out

To be fair, we all have oops! moments like that.

Learned that MANY years ago, my friend! My Dad taught me how to solder when I was ten, then sweat pipes a year later. Thanks, Dad!

He had me pumping the brake pedal when I was 5 or 6 and couldn't even see the top of the dash.

He had a 1974 Vega GT with a 4 speed. I shifted every time I rode with him, and drove that very car the first time I drove with my permit.

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