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I think I mentioned this in another thread, so I'm overdue for posting the details.
I purchased my speedster last spring from Troy, odometer had 15k on it (the odometer had stopped working) and I put another 5k on it over the summer after I replaced the gauges.

Nothing wrong with the engine, it ran like a top after we adjusted the jetting for altitude (I live in the Salt Lake area). Won top 20 at the Wasatch Classic a big local air-cooled show and recognition at other small-town local shows. Love chatting with folks about it and driving it in our canyons and mountain passes.

I couldn't have been happier with the car. I told my wife a couple of months after I had it, there are some purchases your regret or feel you shouldn't have spent the money on, but buying the speedster was not one of those, best money spent in a long time. Troy's advice was spot on, treat it like a motorcycle. Drive it in the weather and on the roads you'd like to ride a motorcycle and you'll love it.

But I just can't leave well enough alone.
So a few months ago I started talking with Eric Allred the owner of Red-E Motorsports in Salt Lake about engines. In October we started the project, stockpiling parts and ordering some overseas items.

The plan was to build an engine suited for the canyons and mountain roads in Utah. Minimize the back and forth shifting with a wide powerband, while at the same time matching the classic aesthetic of the car. The exterior matches up well with an original 356 and we wanted to see what could be done with the engine as well.

2109cc, mild cam, Weber IDF's, vintage speed exhaust, throttle linkage, heater boxes and 356 style oil filler. Original canister filter modified to be a functioning breather box, Pertronix SVDA done up to look like a vintage Bosch cast iron distributor, 356 dipstick and stickers etc. All tin and related parts are powder coated with a deep clear on top.

Few details left to work out, just finished the 36mm alternator nut. Need to install the OT pulley I found in the Czech Republic, and the Bosch badge on the distributor. The sticker on the coil is upside down (or, is supposed to be upside down) so we need to fix that.

Pulling the A/C out of the car (let me know if someone is looking for a complete AC unit) and installing sway bars. While that's happening I'm finishing up quilted Nomex lining for the engine bay that we'll attach with black Loxx snaps.

More details to come as this project comes together over the next few weeks.


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Thought I was looking at my motor. I also converted an original 356 oil filter for my breather box and sourced an OT pulley from the CR. Bosch sticker is supposed to be upside down since the sticker would have been applied with the tip of the coil facing up. The Knecht air filter/screens also give it the original look.
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@Quadmod posted:


Nothing wrong with the engine, it ran like a top after we adjusted the jetting for altitude (I live in the Salt Lake area). Won top 20 at the Wasatch Classic a big local air-cooled show and recognition at other small-town local shows. Love chatting with folks about it and driving it in our canyons and mountain passes.

I didn’t go last fall. The Spyder got one, too in 2019.

Wish I’d come up and met you. Maybe next summer.

So I’m guessing you’re upgrading from a 1600?

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Last edited by dlearl476

Started installing the engine bay liner, lots of back and forth of measure, drill, punch, install. So far so good, but I think I’m going to be short on the needed Loxx snaps… looks like expedited shipping from Germany is in my future. I’ll use what I have to get a final count. It’s subtle but I like how the black snaps match the Loxx snaps on the convertible top.

Initial run in of the engine is complete, minor adjustments still happening.
https://youtube.com/shorts/BsF4MPIHjSs?feature=share

Taking a holiday break then back at it on Monday.

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Thanks all for the comments!

I spent today finishing the install of the engine bay liner, and glassing the holes from the A/C lines. With that out of the way we fit the new engine in. Tomorrow we finish up the wiring and get the engine prepped, then it should be ready to go!

We had a snow storm come through tonight and the roads were a mess coming home, so I may be waiting a few days for the roads to dry out before I bring it home.

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@Quadmod- Engine looks really sharp.  I know of Eric from the Samba; he has a good reputation.  A couple questions- do you know what cam is in it?  What heads were put on it?  Are the heaterboxes stock or do they have larger tubing?  Did Eric give you a hp estimation?  How high will it rev with power (redline)?  Thanks for your time.  Al

PS - before the engine lid goes back on- some holes and then a little polishing would make the engine lid hinges look super cool!

Last edited by ALB

@ALB 2280 cam and Panchito big valve heads. Vintage Speed header boxes. No estimate on the horsepower but we’re planning to put it on the dyno in the spring.

I drove it home between storms yesterday, and it seems very comfortable cruising at 4000 rpm, 85 mph.

Yeah the hinges are on the list

@Gordon Nichols Thanks! Vintage Speed exhaust and heater boxes.

Last edited by Quadmod
@Quadmod posted:

@ALB 2280 cam and Panchito big valve heads. Vintage Speed header boxes. No estimate on the horsepower but we’re planning to put it on the dyno in the spring.

I drove it home between storms yesterday, and it seems very comfortable cruising at 4000 rpm, 85 mph.

Yeah the hinges are on the list

@Gordon Nichols Thanks! Vintage Speed exhaust and heater boxes.

Sounds like a great combination- it'll have stump pulling power from idle on up and I'm guessing power will be all in by 5,000 rpm (or thereabouts) so it' will be pretty indestructible. 2109 cc's- 76 mm stroke x 94 mm pistons/cylinders?

I can’t believe it I took mine out today and drove it to my sons house to store it for the winter so I can catalog some of the parts I have for the New Build.  That’s unheard of here in Ohio it’s usually  colder than crap and salt on the roads. But not this winter yet I bet we will pay for it later!

CB Perf Eagle 2280 cam:

Adv. Duration 274°
Dur. @ .050" 222°
Lift @ cam .359"
Lift w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms .394"

So the rockers should tell the rev story here. Stock ratio: 5,000 rpm peak?

1.25 ratio yields .448 lift so ~ 5,500?

1.4 ratio gets .500 lift so that's probably around 6,000+?

Or is it the case that the cam's relatively short duration will remain short even with the ratio rockers, generating a lot of cylinder pressure and torque but not pushing the rev range up so much?

@Former Member posted:

I can’t believe it I took mine out today and drove it to my sons house to store it for the winter so I can catalog some of the parts I have for the New Build.  That’s unheard of here in Ohio it’s usually  colder than crap and salt on the roads. But not this winter yet I bet we will pay for it later!

I'm having the same thoughts here in the east...

Bonus, the fuel oil bill isn't very high!

@Former Member posted:

... it’s usually  colder than crap and salt on the roads. But not this winter yet I bet we will pay for it later!

I'll bet you're right.

We framed on the project house across the street today... in shirtsleeves. We finished up by flashlight, because I really wanted to have it dried in before the weather turns. We made it on the roof, but didn't get the walls sheeted.

I'm afraid this will be it for a while.

We've got 6- 10" of snow predicted for tomorrow, and the forecasted high temp next Friday is 5*F (with the low of -6*). The new shop is not quite ready for insulation (there's a lot of wire to be pulled yet), which means a whole lot of clear/white kerosene in the salamander for the next couple of weeks while I get that roughed in. We set the meter socket and panel yesterday, so I at least have something to pull to.

I need to get the gas line piped at the meter to get an inspection sticker, but getting the house dried in took precedent. I absolutely need some temporary heat that is connected to something cheaper than $5/gal.

Everything is complicated by the new normal.

We've had a gift in having beautiful weather for the last month. It's about to get choppy.

Last edited by Stan Galat
@edsnova posted:

CB Perf Eagle 2280 cam:

Adv. Duration 274°
Dur. @ .050" 222°
Lift @ cam .359"
Lift w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms .394"

So the rockers should tell the rev story here. Stock ratio: 5,000 rpm peak?

1.25 ratio yields .448 lift so ~ 5,500?

1.4 ratio gets .500 lift so that's probably around 6,000+?

Or is it the case that the cam's relatively short duration will remain short even with the ratio rockers, generating a lot of cylinder pressure and torque but not pushing the rev range up so much?

The valve lift doesn't so much affect the operating range; adding lift can add to the redline a very little bit by producing more power by making the heads/intake more efficient, but that's mainly the job of the duration.  I would expect an engine with those cam specs (222° @ .050") with dual single barrel carbs, decent heads and exhaust to go to 4500 rpm or a little past with good power.  Throw the IDF's in the mix and (depending on venturi size) it might hit 5,000 rpm  or even a wee bit more.  It may rev substantially higher (500 or even 1,000 rpm) but I'm speaking of it's redline here, the point where power peaks.  For most people this is good to know, as running it higher than redline doesn't make the car accelerate any faster (in most cases) and it just beats up parts.  Get the car into 3rd gear, do a hard acceleration run once it's revving high enough in the powerband (so you're in no danger of lugging it) and if you're paying attention you'll feel where it peaks.

Now- adding 1.25 rockers could extend the rpm ceiling a little, but not strictly because of the increased lift- the rockers are adding probably 3?, 4?, or even 5° to the dur. @ .050" figure- the opening side is hitting that .050" lift mark a wee bit sooner and the intake valve is staying open a wee bit longer on the closing side as well, allowing for a better cylinder fill and bigger bang with more fuel burned.  A lot of aftermarket cams designed for 1.1:1 rockers, if there is close to 40° between the advertised and @ .050" duration numbers, have mild enough ramps that you can use 1.25 rockers on them and the valve train will still operate within design parameters and live.  With the 2280 having over 50° between the 2 figures- 274-222, (very similar to the stock cam in that  respect, which reacts really well to 1.4 rockers) I wonder if it could use 1.4's as well?

Anyway- below shows how higher ratio rockers affect a camshaft's timing numbers- you can see how heads that flow well above .400" valve lift benefit from the higher ratio rockers.

Rocker comparison W125 with 1.1 and 1.25



I hope this helps.  Al

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  • Rocker comparison W125 with 1.1 and 1.25: W125 with 1.1 vs 1.25 rockers
Last edited by ALB
@ALB posted:

Can you see it now?  Anybody????

Yep. Thanks, Al.

@Bob: IM S6 posted:

I won't tell what I just paid to have my oil tank filled up.  Cripes, it's gone up like mad.

One tank of furnace oil now costs the same as what I pay for my load of winter's firewood.  And a stone house ain't insulated all that well...

@Former Member posted:

We just filled our Propane tank it was $ 2.45 a gallon $ 1.00 more a gallon from same time last year. I was hoping the temperature would stay mild its 52 degrees hear today but supposed to be 18 tomorrow.

The cost of commodities (actual things) and materials made of commodities are what I've been whining about for months. Try to buy some copper wire - if you dare (current price: $152/250 ft roll for 12/2 NM romex). PVC pipe is 4x what it was in 2020, assuming you can find it (which is spotty). It goes on and on.

I'm closing out the books on 2021, so this is fresh in my mind. Revenue was flat, costs increased on a scale I've not seen the entire time I've been in business. In my little sector of the economy, there appears to be no relief in sight. A new, plain-Jane work van (to replace the one with 175K mi) is $45K (up 25% since 2020)... and that's assuming they can build one, because nobody has any on the lot. After a brief respite, lumber prices are back on the rise. Refrigerant pricing remains stratospheric. Short of a radical change in monetary policy, I suspect most of this is here to stay. I've got to raise our rates, but I'm wondering where we'll meet immovable resistance.

2022 looks to be a lot like 2021, only a lot more expensive. Retirement is a mirage starting to drop out of the line-of-sight.

Last edited by Stan Galat

No question, the times are absolutely in upheaval and some are taking advantage IMO but most are caught in an unbelievable supply issue and prices are so inflationary high.   We won't speak of the money supply that is increasing by gazillions by our politicians pouring money into the economy causing housing prices to go mad.  Go figure.

Went grocery shopping yesterday and was more than amazed at the changes in prices. $2.00 for a grapefruit, a dollar for an orange, flavored water that sold last week for $2.79 now selling for over $4.00. Just how much did it cost to ship these American products my grocery store? Simple calculations tells me that if the store had 1,000 grapefruits to sell for $2.00 each they would take in $2,000. Let's assume the grapefruit cost the grocer $1,000 for the produce and shipping, $500 for the produce and $500 for shipping. Now multiply that by all the American produce and items the store acquires, that must be in the millions. Something tells me it's not inflation but price gouging similar to what happens to building supplies and gas in areas of natural disasters. When something goes up 50% or more and inflation is said to be less than that (6.8%) what else could it be?

🤔

@Former Member posted:

I can’t believe it I took mine out today and drove it to my sons house to store it for the winter so I can catalog some of the parts I have for the New Build.  That’s unheard of here in Ohio it’s usually  colder than crap and salt on the roads. But not this winter yet I bet we will pay for it later!

Rick and I made tentative plans to go for a celebratory drive today. 17° and snowing. Maybe next week.

As for construction, I don’t get it either. They started on a $.5 million dollars home down the hill from me as soon as the weather changed. They poured the foundation on the first <40° day of they year, and they were framing it during the rain and snow all last week.

I asked my brother who did concrete work for ~25 years and he said people do it because labor is cheaper in the winter, and the lumber is treated so the water doesn’t affect it.

Me, I’d be worried about building a house full of mold, but what do I know?

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