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There are several different ways to slice the pan for shortening - some are quick, some weak and some artistic. The CMC manuals covers a diagonal cut which leave unmatch indents and requires some hammering.  A Z cut ends up looking nice and is strong.

See the source image

Here's article covering different methods.

While I like the thicker pans (for bug restorations) - I wouldn't spend a lot more for them for a kit car.  You aren't going to be in rain and snowy slush, or salt covered streets.  You can powder coat/POR15/Bed liner coat them - methods not available in '50-70's.  The steel perimeter frame is way over engineered for strength and you'll still want to add steel for seats and seat belts.  If you add a dropped seat area that too will strenthen the pan.

Wow have they gone up in price!  .85 mm is $220 (per side) and 1.1mm is $240 plus oversize shipping (CIP1 says free shipping).  You might want to consider the 1/2 of a full side since you have to cut anyhow.  You'd save $50 each side and perhaps easier to work with since no jack point or seat rails to remove and toss.

Last edited by WOLFGANG

Yeah, I get it on the pans.  Personally I wont use anything but the 18 guage..  The chassis I have, 1969, is already shortened and the body was mounted to it, well kind of.   The last guy welded pans over old pans which all rusted since.  I can "fix"  this chassis with new pans and will probably replace the "napoleon hat" while I'm at it. 

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