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@arajani posted:

Carey spoke to Pat recently, and Pat had mentioned that my car needed some ducting from the cylinder heads down to the belly pan. This would be needed to help give hot air a way to escape. Oil temps have been just fine in the test driving that Carey has done, but Pat was uncomfortable with this. 

I reached out to my high school classmate and good friend Chris Maglio. We built a solar powered car together in high school and raced it from Dallas to San Antonio. I went on to a BA/MD program, he he went to Cal Poly and studied aeronautical engineering. He owned a very successful engineering firm that did work for DoD and a number of other government agencies — he was always a sharp guy. I wanted his counsel on how essential this ducting was, though I felt I knew the answer (not surprisingly, he knows quite a lot about 4 cam engines, too). 

Chris felt that it was essential — just as Pat had said. I sent him the photos of the ducting on the original 550 Carrera engines, and he agreed that allowing the hot air to stagnate was a bad idea. Knowing that I am a pea-brained physician, he sent pictures:

Current setup, without ducting:

A02D540F-1DB6-40CD-B63D-C71FB41634C7

After ducting:

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Here’s a original 550 motor with the shrouding on it — notice the finning on the heads it totally encapsulated with sheet metal:

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Exhaust on a 4 cam head is straight out of the bottom unlike a VW head. Shrouding surrounds it. 

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Here’s the underbelly of an original car:

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So...once my car is out of the paint booth from touch ups and some work to the wheel wells (so my tires don’t rub!), Brady Miller is going to make some ducting for me. He is a award-winning medal worker in Ind\iana who had done work on a few of my prior projects with Carey (his work won 2nd place at Pebble a few years back — he had some free time before his next project). We plan to create some shrouding that will keep the air from that Carrera double fan running over the bottom of those heads and down the holes in the bottom. Of course, we will need to make some allowance for movement of the motor, but that should be do-able.

Pictures of my belly pan, both before paint and after, are below. You can also see the holes below the engine after installation. Note: the AN fittings in the valve covers below have been flipped and are now facing forward!

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There's a lot of controversy about these. IIRC, these were made to help cool the cylinder/heads in a type 3 due to the limited nature of airflow in the fastback/square back engine compartment. At some point in the Samba thread, someone posted a VW TSB that said they shouldn't be used on a type 1 engine. Like a lot of folks in the thread, I wonder why, seems like a good idea to me. Off the top of my head, I can't think of a reason the wouldn't work on a Spyder, lower pan or not. Maybe someone with some more experience than I can offer some insight. I'm debating installing some if I ever have my engine apart.  

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https://www.jbugs.com/product/...4UVe3TcaAiNlEALw_wcB

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Last edited by dlearl476

@dlearl476 wrote- "There's a lot of controversy about these. IIRC, these were made to help cool the cylinder/heads in a type 3 due to the limited nature of airflow in the fastback/square back engine compartment. At some point in the Samba thread, someone posted a VW TSB that said they shouldn't be used on a type 1 engine. Like a lot of folks in the thread, I wonder why, seems like a good idea to me. Off the top of my head, I can't think of a reason the wouldn't work on a Spyder, lower pan or not. Maybe someone with some more experience than I can offer some insight. I'm debating installing some if I ever have my engine apart."

Remember that the cooling air in a type 3 moves horizontally so different ducting is needed.  The type 3 lower tins aren't as useful (as built) on a type 1 because the air moves vertically.  There are guys that have made the type 3 tins work (with substantial modifications) on a type 1, but it's usually out of necessity- the regular sled tins not working because of the design of the header so they're cobbling something together to cover at least some of the lower cylinder fin area.

@DannyP posted:

Dave, I feel that IF you have no sled tins, or underpan, then the type3 tins might be helpful IN A SPYDER. The only way to know would be to monitor all 4 head temps before and after installing them. Do it! You could help other guys too!

That's what I'm thinking. I only have the top tin, no sleds. I do have the little deflectors that go between the cylinders. So what's best, open to the air or closed and having the fan blow over?  

Got a line on any Bluetooth CHT gauges?

Last edited by dlearl476

Brady finished the lower tins for the car — and also wrapped my exhaust to improve insulation and minimize the temperatures inside the engine compartment. 

It is a small space and is very difficult to photograph, but here are a few that show the lower tins wrapped around the heads to channel air from that double Carrera fan down, around the heads and out the bottom of the belly pan!

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@chines1 also re-did my tonneau for a tighter fit and a return edge to go up against the passenger door garnish rail — he just repainted it. The pictures below show it just out of the gun. He has since buffed it and it will be installed on Wednesday for the final time. 

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We should be done with the car completely by the week’s end.@Robert M is heading out soon to pick it up. I’m starting to get excited...

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Carey installed the tonneau today. I think it fits great! Definitely the way I wanted to see it sit. 

Mark (seen below) gave the car a nice polishing, and the paint appears to be appreciating it. 

I had switched to a slightly taller tire a while back, so the mount for the spare needed adjusting. Carey sorted that out with a 2 lb sledgehammer. I called it “gentle persuasion.” LOL.

The car should be ready for @Robert M on Tuesday AM.

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A few more good shots from Carey late today. He made a little grille badge for me — it says “Sonauto Paris.” All of the French blue spyders were delivered to France with this badge drilled into the body near the “PORSCHE” emblem on the back. I wasn’t quite that interested in drilling holes for it, so this was a close second. Before delivery, Carey will add my 420 mm Petri and a few final items.

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@arajani posted:

@edsnova and @*LongFella — thanks for the kind words. I really had nothing to do with this project other than writing checks...Carey is the one who made this happen — and he does this for a living! You guys have both created superb cars. The “amateur” additions that I make to this car will be painfully apparent, because they will look as though they have been done by a 5 year old!

It’s a good thing you’re a doctor. Given the costs for this build you’re sure to develop carpal tunnel!  ;-)

2B2A5961-CB06-46FA-906A-3BEA877D9248
323EE1EB-2DF9-4F29-891D-4D70DBEB3CB6
9A056409-A152-4262-BCE5-73E4BBED14F0Got some pictures from Danilo in Costa Rica. He’s shipping my helmet tomorrow!

The color looks pretty washed out on the manikin; is was an exact match from the Glasurit paint code. I suspect the photo from the back is more accurate, though even I’m not sure. My iPhone could never capture the real color of the paint sample Carey has sent!

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