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So yeah. . . . It has only been a few years. I work doing contracts and I have dragged my speedster back and forth between 3 states and coast to coast, planning to work on her. Every time she ends up sitting because I have no place to really work or I work to many hours...

Well, I'm back home I  East Tennessee and I have her in the garage. I plan on a body off this winter so I can do stuff...garage is clean enough to pull her in but still need to pull everything I have for her out of boxes, finish up the mods and and...

I narrowed my front beam, just need to get to the tierods and reassemble

I have the rear trailing arms I need to narrow and reassemble

I'm going to get all the wires fixed under the dash and body....get rid of the scotch crimp crap and the electrical tape...

Mine is an old CMC. I have found documentation where the fasteners are located and I have had many VW bodies off before.

Just wondering if anyone has experienced any unusual fasteners/fastening on these CMC kits I should be away of.

Thanks and I am glad to be back home where I can finally work on her and get back to driving....


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The diagram shows the recommended bolts that attach the sub-frame to the VW pan.  Believe nearly all CMC/FF came with the sub-frame "bonded" to the fiberglass body.  So you would be removing the pan from the sub-frame/body assembly.  When I mated mine I used 3-4 tubes of silicon caulk around the perimeter of the VW pan.  I also (per the build manual) fiberglassed the sub-frame/body assembly to the VW pan.

Is there a reason to separate the 2 pieces?  A couple of owners here had severe rust in the sub-frame and desired to actually separate the sub-frame from the fiberglass body so it could be welded.  I don't recall hearing if that was easy or not (I think not as the sub-frame seems to be very well "bonded" to the fiberglass body.  The VW floor pans can be replaced without separating the sub-frame from the pan.

Note in below diagram - that fiberglass is also specified for the front fender shield and the rear engine seal fiberglass pieces.  All that added fiberglass (itchy!) would have to be cut/ground away to separate the two pieces - perhaps just the inner cabin though).


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A few reasons...

1. All the metal is bare and starting to rust.

2. I am doing air ride and want open space to access my arms and such for welding,  need to run lines and and...

3. The wires need to be clean, these crimps are terrible

4. I have a friend that is a painter, I want to get it painted properly inside and out. Take the body over to him

I'm ok with the subchassis staying attached to the body. But I did not see that the body is glassed to the subchassis and the subchassis is glassed to the chassis/pan...if I understand you properly.... good grief.

I guess I might have to find another way.

I love this car, my dream car but crazy issues I keep coming to. Haahhahahahah all part of it.

I need to get it up un the air and see what is going on. Carpet is all glued down as well.

Thanks again

Glued carpet is pretty common on CMC cars, as most of the (part time) builders just did it and didn't know any better.  Getting it off is an adventure, though.

"I did not see that the body is glassed to the subchassis and the subchassis is glassed to the chassis/pan...if I understand you properly.... good grief."

The majority of CMC Speedsters got delivered with the body bonded to the sub-frame.  Some home builders bonded the body/subframe to the pan with more fiberglass, and some didn't.  If they were bonded together, you'll certainly see it at the edges of the pan and you should be able to break the bond at the vertical/horizontal intersection all along the outer sides of the pan, like with gentle touch on an angle grinder.

If the body/subframe and pan were bonded together with silicon caulk along the bolt lip before bolting them together, that can be a bigger problem.  Separating the caulk (some people even used Locktite construction adhesive) can be really tough.  I separated a dune buggy body siliconed to a pan using a toothed wire hacksaw blade and a person on each side.

I had to remove the handle on one end, pass it through and then crimp it back on after cutting each side, but it worked well enough to pry the body up off the pan and separate them.

As far as bolts, like in Greg's diagram I just used the original VW bolt placements except for those few points towards the rear corners where the access sucks and for those I used Riv-Nuts crimped into the subframe and bolted up through the pan.  It's not difficult to figure out and I know it'll be easy for you.

I feel better about mine after reading your posts.  On mine and especially with me  coming from manufactured products where everything fit right and were easily serviced, NOTHING on my CMC fit first time and everything had to be modified.  That added, like, forever to the build timeline.  That plus my being OCD, I suppose....   🙄

Glad to see you're home again (for a while, at least) so keep reporting progress.

"Butt sag" use a 3'  2 x 4 on a centered to body floor jack below the rear bumper against the body until you have lightly supported the rear body with the door gaps even w/o binding at the striker plates.  Drill out the inner wheel well rivets. Jack body slightly higher until you have the vertical door gap correct and still be able to open - close the door again , w/o it binding against the striker plate. Dill 4 - 5   5/16 holes , pry the fiberglass away ( wedge two screwdrivers) from the 2 x 2 steel and use some exterior construction adhesive between the  2 x 2 and fiberglass then secure with the  5/16" bolts and  fender washers against the fiberglass panel.

I was able to get the car on jackstands. I found the 2 front bolts on each side, the bolts along each side from front to rear as well as pop rivets at the door sill that look to need a grinding off from under. I did not get to locate anything, holidays, people coming over and stuff like that.

More sooner than later, I hope and some pics. More holidays, back to 60hr work weeks and and. . . .

Thanks again all.

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