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Stuman has the AC panel which would be perfect for tweeters that are small .
Tweeters are usually high but You might be able to do something slightly lower Lane

I recently saw an Audi where the guy Molded the A pillars with a tweeter holder ala 535 BMW tweeter at high dash level ... not original but you get the idea.
like the shark fin antenna camera mod .. choice choices

There is a flat spot on each end of the dash (remember, mine looks different from a Speedster) that I could use, but I think I'd try something else to retain the stock look.  It's moot for now since I don't know yet if I'll add anything.  The baffles should be here in a couple of days and then we'll see.  Again, I'm not pursuing spectacular sound quality.  Just "good enough."

Last edited by Lane Anderson

I know several of you have your speakers in the footwell area up in the kick panel. The area behind that is open to the wheel well. I'm wondering what, if anything, you have behind that area to protect the back of the speaker and to enhance the sound?

I'm not sure if the Boom Mat baffles I linked earlier would suffice in protecting the speaker.

Last edited by Robert M
@DannyP posted:

Get the one with longer arms on Amazon. There are several arm lengths/brands to choose from.

Be careful how much force you use on the smaller sizes, you can easily break the rivnuts or possibly the mandrels.

I used them to mount the headlights, among other things.

I was working on my headlights just today and that is why I thought of the Rivnuts Carey used for this espeakers.

No issues with the thickness of the fiberglass?

Still looking for an answer regarding people who have speakers in their kick panels. What is behind them to keep the speaker from getting wet?

Last edited by Robert M

Robert, I also used them on my old car for a bushing, by drilling out the threads.

You know how Spyders have the headrest fairing? They usually have a long 1/4-20 bolt that goes through the clamshell. I put a rivnut in the hole and drilled out the threads. It doesn't take much effort to drill out the aluminum.

Another good spot is the gas tank. Four there makes tank removal a one-man job.

I have the cheap Harbor Freight tool. It is less than OK. I see they just came out with a two lever design, rather than the pop-rivet type I have. But as I said the ones on Amazon are available with longer handle lengths, and seem to have better reviews.

I used these "plusnuts" to secure my tank, because I worried the normal rivnuts would just smash the fiberglass. Thanks for posting that McMaster tool Stan. When I mounted the plusnuts, I had to fabricate something similar out of nuts and bolts because the mandrel on my tool didn't have a long enough reach, so I got them started with that, then finished with the Wurth tool.

image

And I second Danny's recomendation to get longer handles. My Wurth tool is more like a rivet tool and I have to add a couple of cheaters to the handles to set the 8mm and 10mm nuts.



eta: Stan, I just saw your link is to something similar. I'm going to have to search for the tool.

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Last edited by dlearl476

The car is still at the racing shop.  Unfortunately we underestimated how long it will take to make the adjustments, and I took it in as they were preparing 11 cars for Road Atlanta this weekend.  My timing wasn't the best.

I'll test out the baffles when I get it back.  If that doesn't do enough, I'll probably add some tweeters in a more directionally optimal location.  The funny part is that I was kind of "meh" about any sort of sound system, but his car is so much more complete as a car (does that make sense?) that a sound system seems appropriate.

Last edited by Lane Anderson
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