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The correct finish for the aluminum dash insert is hammertone silver.

The gauges reflect in the windshield at night, because the dash "brow" doesn't extend far enough to shield the light. The key is to DIM the gauges as far as you can. I've gotten used to the reflection and see past it now when I drive at night. It no longer bothers me at all.

The reflection is very noticeable though when you are a new Spyder driver.

@edsnova posted:

@AmericanWorkMule I do believe it's a piece of aluminum painted hammertone silver on the real cars. Prompts the question of why they'd add that part and its complexity and weight instead of just painting under the brow. Mine is super thin fwiw.

Because the German engineers just can't help but make it complicated? Plus it looks more finished production than rough and ready race car.

Mine is thin too, weighs nothing.

There are plenty like that though, whether by "USA-made aluminum" or elsewise. And of course at least one was re-chassied by Porsche in period.

It all comes down to the story told and the documentation offered, which is why I have fashioned my own "Certificate of InAuthenticity" to include with the car when ownership is transferred.

I believe all PCCA members' cars should have one!

@edsnova posted:

I think it's not your thing D, but I have a lot of fun concocting semi-believable, facially outrageous backstories for PCCA cars in the style of the "provenance" section of the vehicle descriptions you see at Gooding, RM Sotheby's & etc. If you'd like, I'll do one for yours.

You are indeed correct, ain't my thing. But as a comic exercise might be fun.

@Sacto Mitch I threw away my OE Vintage burned-out headlight switch, and a bunch of other failed and replaced components. What have I done?

Hmmm...  That'd be fun to have for the Coupe as well.  It will actually have a handful of real 356 parts in it, so you can use that to build the story. 

Guess I could create one too, Lane.  With a P engine, transmission, brakes, steering, full suspension, oil tank, etc.

I was able to use the VIN from the 993 my engine came from to join PCA (not that I have ever joined in on anything, but I enjoy their magazine) 

I have to say I'm a prouder member of PCCA.

Back in the 90's I subscribed to the British classic car mags. I vaguely remember there being a big controversy about a restoration of a famous classic from a few parts. It's been so long I don't remember details. It was either burned up in a fire or recovered from a Swiss lake, and all that remained of the original car was like, a brake rotor, part of the steering wheel and the engine block.

The "restoration" was done from there and represented as the original vehicle.  

I think something similar happened with a factory team 250 GTO, too, once they became worth $15 million.

Last edited by dlearl476
@Thor-bob posted:

It's a safety thing....... the dash reflects in the windshield and reduces clarity of what you should be looking at.  I be working on a dash cap held on by Tenax snaps, which hopefully won't scratch the paint.  The stuff that needs shielding doesn't stick out too far..... the dash gauges are almost at the limit, just past the dash top edge.



Thor-bob

I read over on the Spyderclub ....

[quote="YamaBice"]Matte black contact paper. It's actually vinyl, not paper, and it's got a flat-black finish. Plus, the adhesive is low-tack so you can remove it easily....[/quote]

@Thor-bob posted:

Revision......... gonna just use gaffers tape - the snaps need to be free for the tonneau cover... D'oh!

Maybe pics to come,

Thor

I would advise against Gaffers tape. The adhesive is so strong there’s a chance you will lift paint if you remove it and the sun will dry it out and bake it on.

I’ve used it for a lot of stuff and it’s not really a good permanent solution, especially if exposed to UV light.

Last edited by dlearl476
@Thor-bob posted:

But it won't blow off at 130+, right?   Like that Mercedes drafting another car, then doing an endo - up, up, annnnnnnd over the wall into the forest below.

Black Post-It notes then.  Or a beach towel.

Not until the sun/heat dries the adhesive and bonds it to the paint and de-bonds it from the fabric.

“Or a beach towel”. That gives me an idea: how about a med-dark DashMat attached with some 1/2” squares of Velcro.

If you do that, why not use the tonneau attachments on the dash to affix the dash cover?  That way no adhesive is involved.

Two heads > One.

I forgot to edit my above post to add this before it was too late:

I suggested a dark cover because when I bought a grey DashMat to compliment the grey interior of my 968, I was thinking the fabric surface of the felt would make for less reflection than the hard plastic of the dash.

It wasn’t. In fact it was somehow worse. So much so that I never really installed it. I keep it rolled up in the cubby and only use it when I park my car in the sun.

Last edited by dlearl476

My advice: Make sure your dimmer works well(you may need to replace the headlight switch or actually WIRE the dimmer properly). Dim the lights as much as you can and suck it up. The gauges reflect in the windshield. Get over it. I did. I don't even see the reflection now, not even at night when it's raining and the top is up.

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