Stainless Steel Firewall

Stainless is nice, but can be difficult to put holes in. I'm 150% sure you already know this, Jim.

Could I suggest some .030" or .040" aluminum as an alternative?

Jim on a few builds I used the epoxy black coated aluminum that is used on bumper pull box trailers, a pita to make patterns though but looks great when done ,

SS is a mofo to work with

Jim.......I don't have the photos on this laptop but maybe some one on this site can resurrect the photos of my engine turned stainless firewall.

I bought the 20 ga stainless with the 1.5" circles already on it. The piece on the fire wall is one piece, the sides are separate and are bent at the bottom to cover that 2" square tubing. The bottom of the firewall piece hangs down a little to give the seal foam something to hang onto. Separate pieces dress up the slots needed for the hood hinges and they should be matched so the engine turned pattern isn't disturbed visually.  Everything is attached with stainless panhead sheet metal screws. It turned out to be a visually spectacular improvement and is nearly scratch proof compared to using polished aluminum.  Easy to clean too !

I already have one made up for my Spyder which Greg will install just before he puts the body on the frame...............Bruce

@aircooled do you have any pics to share of that Spyder firewall?
or, when Carey has it installed can you share please?
Thanks

I've been looking for the same firewall panels and found these at Jbug. They offer a stainless kit too. Don't know if they will fit your speedster but they also offer a cheep tar board kit that you can use to see if this will work. I think they are the same size. Click on the above for the link.

I think this is Bruce's firewall

Thanks Butcherboy....Yes, that's my firewall.  American Work Mule.....Greg at Vintage Speedster in Ca. will be installing the stainless firewall and yes, I will have photos of it when that happens. I think it will present a very nice improvement to a firewall that looks pretty dreary in it's usual form. At least I hope so because it will be there to stay as part of the body/frame assembly...............Bruce

I used 1/16 thick aluminum and polished it. It looks better in person but still not as shiny as polished stainless. Got the idea for the holes from Kevin Zagar's  speedster.

Aluminum is easy to work with ( cut and drill) and available at most big box stores ( Lowe’s/Home Depot).  Before installing I added a layer or two of high temp bed liner/sound dampener paint ( for protection-insulation) over the wood fire wall VS used for safe measure.  A relative pimple weekend project.

pictures from 2016. I’m lacking in the skills department...  so it’s not pretty, but i was able to fumble through it.  I can send updated pics if desired. It’s held up great and easy to clean.

I cut the three individual panels ( in leu of making one large one) to allow me to easily fit without removing anything but the air filters and disconnecting the fuel line.  Made a cardboard template of each panel first to fit test..  then when I had it the way I wanted it I transferred the cardboard templates to aluminum, Installed the sides first with self taping screws, then the back panel.

Luis, I like it. Very clean. You too Seth.

Thanks to all...

Bruce, That's what I want. I can do the engine turning. What is the thickness of the stainless?

Jim.....It was 20 ga.  I didn't think I was going to like the 1.5" circles. I thought they would look too big but after seeing how much area was visable, they are about the right size. Dashboards are small areas so small circles look better. It's probably a proportion thing. The 20ga is a little difficult to work but is much less susceptible to "dimpling" around the fasteners.  I made a cardboard template of course but then made a 24ga galvanized sheet metal prototype (bends and all) before I cut and bent the real stuff just to make sure I got it right.............Bruce

Bruce,

I'm in the "thinking about it" phase. It's about to get HOT here. I really should have done it in the winter.

Your firewall looks great and diameter is perfect. 20 gauge is about .040. I was thinking that's what I would use. Lot of pulls on the handle to get that done.

Do you have a tracing of the templates?

Jim......I did and kept them for about 4 yrs but no one asked for them so I tossed them in a "Laboratory"cleaning session.    

I think I would do the circles first then cover them with a plastic sheet, then cut and bend to fit.  It would be easier to get your circles placed in a consistent pattern this way.  Yup a whole lot of arm pulls.

I know you know how to do this Jim, so there's not much else for me to contribute ?......Bruce

I'm sure you can buy sheets of engine turned material on line if you don't want to pull the handle all day. I'm not as steady at my age so that's the route I'm going.

When the spirit moves me get started; I'll make drawings of the template and post them. I can do that in the air conditioning. Sooner, rather than later.

@Lfepardo posted:

I’m lacking in the skills department...  so it’s not pretty, but i was able to fumble through it.

I wouldn't say you were lacking in skills. Nice job! You can do what you set your mind to do. Most folks don't know what they're capable of.

Guessing pipe a fuel header? I like that too.

When I bought my engine turned stainless it was $600.00 for a 4 X8 ft sheet and one sheet was the minimum. That's enough for two firewalls. The Spyder is my second half of the sheet...................Bruce

I got a quote yesterday. Wow! I'll be pulling the handle. Have access to a plasma cutter and some free stainless. Free is good!

Don't have the motivation yet but I'm getting there.

Jim........ I will look forward to seeing your finished product.    How much was your quote ?......................Bruce

A 2 x 4 sheet was $240. Not enough material for the project.