Starter bushing?

Seriously doubt that it's the starter bushing, but you never know.

First, I would check and clean the connections of: (1.) the ground cable at the battery on both ends - Clean the battery end and then remove and clean the chassis end and make sure both are tight.  (2.) check and clean both ends of the +12Volt cable at the battery AND at the starter and (3.) check and clean both ends of the grounding strap at the forward transaxle mount and make sure it's tight.  That is where the engine/starter is supposed to get its' ground connection.  If those three cure it, you've just saved a bit of money.  

If that does NOT cure it, then I would suspect the starter is old and tired or just inadequate for the task so it's time for a new one.  I would go for a Bosch (yes, they're twice the money, but it'll last for years) and they have them at bugcity.com   If your engine is higher displacement I would go with a so-called "High Torque Starter" for more starting oomph and they have those at CIP1.

CIP1 might also have Speedster Water Wings for next weekend, too.

Easier to install the reported higher torque starter from the AT VW (same I believe as used on Porsche 914/412).  It doesn't use the bearing - it is totally self supporting.  There are also higher torque starters (usually for high compression engines) available too.  

Thanks for the tips guys. I was doubting that bushing was that worn. The car has less than 10K KM's on it and that bushing shouldn't be worn that much by now, but hey you never know. 

I will start by checking all the connections this weekend. 

My engine is 1915 from Vintage so I don't think it is "high compression" (at least compared to some on here ). 

Does this look like the right starter for a 67 from bug city?

Want the best starter, from what I can tell I do not want to do this job again soon

James,

Gordon's advice above is sound and the best place to start.  If cleaning the cable ends, fittings, etc. doesn't improve the starting situation, you may want to have a starter load test done prior to replacing the starter.  Also be aware that deteriorating battery cables can have hidden corrosion that inhibits electrical flow.  A multimeter can check voltage drop in cables.

Any auto electric shop can use a machine that hooks to the battery, and shows amperage draw when the starter is activated.  Normal amperage is 150 amps or so.  They will be able to tell you if your starter is drawing a normal load.  If it is, then your problem may be something other than the starter.

While a load test may seem an additional expense, it can be money well spent.  I know how disappointing it is to install a new starter and have the starting problem remain.  Many of us, like me, learn automotive repairs by making poor decisions on our first attempts.

When you solve the problem, please let us know so we can learn from your experience.

will do and thanks for all the sound advice guys!

Been reading thru some old posts, might try this starter mentioned here...

https://www.speedsterowners.co...2#457856795994529272

or I could start with a relay mentioned here...

https://www.speedsterowners.co...ter-hanging-up-again

http://www.geneberg.com/produc...amp;products_id=1048

https://www.speedsterowners.co...wiring-starter-relay

After I check all my connections of course...

Did this begin right ….after you adjusted the valves?  Maybe too tight ?

Check both battery Pos - Neg as well as chassis to trans ground ( clean even if they look ok)

yes, appeared to start right after I adjusted the valves. Could that be it? Never done valves before and I did what I think is .006 for intake and exhaust. 

Looking over the car, and as dumb as this sounds. (and it is most likely me), but if I am looking for the trans ground strap I dont see it. Should be where these pics are right?

From my car...odd 

If there's no ground strap back there just get a couple short lengths of 10-gauge wire and two big lugs and make one yourself. The car will usually work without one but ground current issues are a constant with these fiberglass contraptions, so more and better grounds are always better than fewer and worse ones.

Ed's right....  just to test you can clamp a battery booster cable from the trans or engine to neg batt post

Could be a tight valve , all you need to do is mess one up ( we all have ) to have an issue which is easily correctable.

The mesh ground straps are readily available from FLAPS - under $10 and ensure you have a good ground.

Thanks guys, gonna go ahead and add one. Found this pic on the internet and going to install it like the pic. 

In terms of the valves, I took my time and triple checked them. None were so tight I couldn’t put the feeler in, so I am really thinking if anything they are loose than tight. I errored on the side of too loose than tight. 

I did tighten up the negative cable on the battery and it turned over like normal. I do take the negative cable off of the battery when I store it for long periods so the battery doesn’t drain. I will add the ground strap, check the connections and clean them and continue to monitor it. 

Thanks again everyone. 

Start with the simplest thing first. How old is the battery? Have you had it tested? 

Not sure the age of the battery, I can swing by and have it tested at my local FLAPS. Could be the battery, charger charges it fine and I just topped it off. Doesn’t have any markings on the age of the battery, but good suggestion!

I am a big fan of the battery tenders. They are cheap, easy to use, and make sure your battery is 100% at all times, even if you don't drive it every month. I have a pigtail under the dash, so plug it in and done.

Also, I had an issue with a Bosch starter that didn't like heat. Always started great cold, but embarrassing at the gas station pushing your car away from the pump!

I bought an IMI 101 and have never looked back. USA made CNC aluminum housing and Bendix with a Japanese gear-reduction motor. It could spin a high compression V8.

Absolutely add a couple ground straps, one is not enough IMHO. And it's pretty cheap to replace your battery cables. A lot of times there is corrosion UNDER the insulation that you can't see, no matter how clean the cable ends and battery are.

Also the VW auto stick starters area direct replacement for the std starter it has it's own supported nose cone and has higher torque for the same price as the std one .under $50 at Advance or Auto Zone...I use them all the time.

My VS built Speedster did not have a ground strap on the transmission but I never had any problems starting it up. When I had the new transmission installed Scott added one. I haven't noticed any change but I feel better having it installed.

Clean those grounding points real good. I had the same issue!

Cleaned grounding points and put in a red top optima. Seems to be better, will continue to monitor. 

Lesson, start with the obvious first

thanks everyone!

Starter bushing issues, two options-change it or go to self supporting starter which can be auto one or aftermarket high torque unit. The other things to check is the battery terminals for corrosion where the cable attaches to battery a the ground connections. The other area is the ignition switch. Check if switch is operating properly.. these switches I found go bad. You turn the key on and have power to coil, then as you turn further the engine cranks over but power is lost to coil.. also could be low cell in battery when it gets warm

I ended up from a trade with a brand new KAFER VW bug carb that I'll never use  Any thoughts on them? Guess it's a Solex knockoff. Apparently, its made in Germany and sold by AirCooled.net.