You could try a hex coupling nut and a socket. I believe a 1/2" coupling nut is 5/8" hex which will fit 17mm.
Here's entire used shroud with flaps and the tin for the dog house cooler for $100 in CO.
That is nice!
Thanks Wolfgang. I’ll check it out.
Autozone had the 17mm hex, $9. And a lot of other tools. I usually shop at O’Reillys, so now I know Autozone is another place to check.
With the right tool that plug came right on out!
Great deal!
@sherco_chris posted:You could try a hex coupling nut and a socket. I believe a 1/2" coupling nut is 5/8" hex which will fit 17mm.
That would not be a good fit at all, and might screw up the hex plug.
Always use the right tool.
@TreyG posted:I looked at Lowe’s today, no luck. However I google searched and it looks like my local Autozone has one in stock. I’m going to run there in the morning and see if it is indeed in stock!
Sorry you struck out at Lowes. Were you looking for an Allen Wrench or a socket? They recently reorganized the tool section in my Lowes and all the separate sockets went from hanging on peg board hooks to being in drawers. It took me a minute to find the Allen sockets, but they did have them in almost every common size, including 17mm.
Our Lowe’s is a wreck. They are reorganizing the whole place. When they finish I’ll refamiliarize myself with their layout and see what they have!
@TreyG posted:Our Lowe’s is a wreck. They are reorganizing the whole place. When they finish I’ll refamiliarize myself with their layout and see what they have!
What a drag. I'm guessing the socket you needed was stuck in a bin somewhere awaiting the drawers to be installed. Sorry for the wasted trip.
FWIW, like many of us I suppose, I've been a Craftsman guy all my life. Other than a few SnapOn bits I've found at pawnshops and a few Proto, KD, or other specialty tools, I've always had Craftsman.
Since the demise of Sears, I've really been pleased with the quality and availability of Lowe's Kolbalt line.
something like that i go to my True Value,, good sized store and they have everything I have looked for, those old farts working in there know everything about anything..
True Value is my go-to for taps and dies.
"those old farts working in there know everything about anything."
Watch it - Most of us are getting to be "old farts"!
Me and the girls got the transaxle pulled today and some other miscellaneous stuff done. We are trying to get the pan disassembled to a point that we can power wash it real good, fabricate seat brackets as necessary, and then touch up paint to start reassembling as we get new parts. We are going to focus on brakes first.
Question 1: While removing the old, rock-hard rear IRS snubbers, the little mounting point was rusted through and came off with the passenger side snubber, see pics of good one and broken one. Any thoughts on how to repair this to mount a new snubber? I think I could fabricate one out 2 different diameter pipes to recreate that “mushroom”, or maybe there is a style mounted to a plate that I could screw to those two holes in the IRS arm?
Question 2: Anyone know what part number the seal is for the clutch and accelerator tubes where they exit the pan (see pic)? I found one on jBugs.com that looked correct, but it says its goes only goes through 1971 (https://www.jbugs.com/product/113-293D.html)
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Good job; this is a link for the clutch tube one; looks like they’re separate on later models:
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/...ist.cfm?ID=311721363
The one for the accelerator cable:
There are different seals depending on the year of the pan. If yours don’t look like Impala’s versions, then compare what’cha got to these which are ‘68 - ‘79.
111301289B Is the seal at the front end of the transaxle.
https://socalautoparts.com/pro...-3-nose-cone-to-pan/
and this is what you need for the cable exit next to it
In my first order of stuff, I got the 2 that impala had links for. I was thinking that these were from the 2 flexible Bowden tubes to the steel tubes coming out of the pan?
The second one that Gordon has a link to looks like it might work where the steel tubes exit the pan. I’ll add that to my list and try it out.
What about the snubber? Any ideas there?
According to Wolfsburg West it looks like for cars after 1971 the single boot doesn’t work but rather each one; the clutch and accelerator tubes each has their own individual seal. That’s my understanding. I will check on the snubber issue. There might be a solution other than finding a replacement arm.
I seem to recall a thread about a similar snubber issue a while ago. It is worth a search.
Mine were mostly rusted away but hadn't broken off. I filled them with epoxy.
Looks like you need a couple of these:
https://socalautoparts.com/pro...p-stop-rear-stock-2/
I think that should fit the mushroom on the “good” side if I picked the right one.
For the other side, the one that the mushroom rusted off of, you have several options and remember that the only force that snubber will ever see is compression from the top.
OK, so given that the compression force will never pull the snubber away from the seat, I would clean up the seat really well; wire brush tip on a drill, whatever it takes, just clean the heck out of it. Maybe even use some rust preventative on it. Then, go to NAPA and get a tube of 3M weatherstrip adhesive and use it to goop up the seat and just stick the snubber right onto the seat (watch out for adhesive coming out the bottom). Let it set up for a couple of days and I bet you’ll have to use dynamite to remove it.
Maybe @Alan Merklin has some ideas, too.
BTW, I never installed the rear snubbers on my IRS car and even though it’s lowered (a lot), the suspension never compresses enough for anything to hit.