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Our speedsters drive nice and straight.  However, the steering wheel is of center.  I didn't want to mess with adjusting the tie rods.  I took the steering wheel off to just rotate it a few teeth. It can off easy.  Putting it back was a pain.

This may be a dumb question, is the steering shaft suppose to move in and out?  When I was putting the steer wheel back on I had to push real hard to compress the spring.  when I did that the shaft would push in an inch or so making it impossible to put the steering wheel  nut back on.  I had to use a strap at the knuckle  to keep it from pushing in.  This just doesn't seem right to me.

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Well, there is SUPPOSED to be a clamp, bolt and nut to lock it down!!!!!   There should be a set of splines on the shaft coming out of the coupler which slide into the bottom of the steering shaft, then, in Wolfgang’s diagram, parts 1, 5 and 7 make up the coupler clamp.   The clamp is VW part 111415539 and you can get one at   Just search on that part number.

DON’t drive the car without that clamp installed and torqued!

You can get the bolt and nylock nut at any ACE hardware store.

@DannyP posted:

Carey will know what column it is. I knew I'd seen that column before. I had one in my Vanagon. Check out numbers 2 and 5.

VW column

Looks like Plan B (C?) of a non-lethal steering column. I like it.

I’m guessing that step (bearing?) on the column (1) rides on a race in the tube (9) in a VW. When I was trying to figure out why my horn button was constantly grounding, Carey told me they remove that stuff and replace it with a Delrin bushing so the column doesn’t ground on the tube.

Last edited by dlearl476
@Bobby D posted:

Lane it was built in 2013

I'm pretty sure that means it's an American-built car rather than Brazilian like mine was.  That means generally better quality.  Danny's post shows the kind of coupler mine had (#2), and I don't think they changed it until the new suspension came out.  I can't really tell from your picture, but something's come apart.  By the way, if your "wonky steering" means that it didn't always return to center in the same spot and felt kind of disconnected in the middle, then you might need to crank down on the pinch bolt on the shaft out of the steering box.  It took me two years before I understood what folks were telling me.  It takes an extension on your wrench to get enough torque to do the job.  Just hand cranking a regular wrench won't do it, even though it will feel tight.

Is that your problem?  I kind of doubt it since you have the in/out shaft movement, but it might be the wonkiness.  As for the steering damper, it might be failing or it might not, but I doubt that it's a contributor to either issue.  To answer your question, don't drive it until you solve this.  That might be overkill, but better safe than sorry. You'll figure it out.

I would have this checked out if I wasn't sure how it was all supposed to work. Like I said before, contact Carey or wait for him to chime in here. The choice is yours.

I believe that everything is fine in there. The column isn't very long, and has an upper and a lower bearing. As was mentioned, the lower bearing is replaced with a Delrin(nylon?) bushing so the horn wire isn't grounded. If the steering wheel is removed, the shaft can slide forward. It's designed that way.

The two prongs on the steering shaft box are designed to NOT ram the column into your chest in the event of impact. The prongs are designed to disengage the column.

Lane is correct that the pitman arm must he SUPER tight, like with an 18-24" breaker bar.

Bobby just wants to center his wheel, I don't think he's having any other problems.

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