Steering Box Adjustment (CMC/VW Pan)

think its right behind drivers front tire...mine took a wrench and a screwdriver,, idid check the oil level and was near empty

Thanks Barncobob! It great to know there is access. Regarding checking the fluid level and refilling the box, (which might be required in my case) was there a need to create any sort of funnel device to prevent fluid from going all over.

BTW..(for anyone reading)...I watched a YouTube video on a VW Beetle and two wrenches a required; 19 mm & 17mm plus the screwdriver.

Thanks again!! .....

Mike

Well, there are two adjustments on the VW steering box, but only if the play at the top of the steering wheel, when at rest, exceeds 1" back and forth when either sitting on the ground or up on a pair of service ramps.  If it does:

1.  Axial Play of the steering worm (the steering column) is adjusted on the front of the box.  Axial play is seen by turning the steering wheel back and forth a half turn and noting if the steering column moves in and out right at the box.  If it moves, then loosen the BIG locknut on the front of the box and adjust the front hex adjuster for no play (don't get it too tight).  I make a hex adjuster out of a 12" long piece of 3/4" wide by 1/8" thick flat steel stock (Home Depot) with a 90º bend at one end to form an "L" about 1/2" long.  That end should fit into the hex cup and allow you to turn the adjuster to and fro.  The locknut is YUGE! - over an inch and there is no room for a socket, so I use a plumber's drain wrench (Home Depot) as it is wide enough and flat enough to fit up in there.

home depot plumbers wrench

The second adjustment is Worm and gear play (probably what you saw on Youtube), and is adjusted on top of the box.   Start with the steering wheel centered, and then rotate it 90º to either side.  Loosen the locknut on TOP of the steering box, back the screwdriver center stud off 1 turn, then slowly and gingerly (two fingers on the screwdriver) turn it back in until it just touches the worm.  Tighten the locknut without further tightening the stud.  Check for 1" play max with the steering when centered, then turn it 90º to one side, check again, then 90º to the other side, check again.  If it has more play on one side than the other, re-adjust to that looser side for the 1" play.  

Road test the car and take some 90º turns both left and right.  The steering wheel should return to center and not "hang up" anywhere.  If it hangs up, re-adjust slightly looser on the top adjuster til it returns from a turn without hanging.

That's the extent of adjusting these boxes without additional shop tools.

If you're wicked lucky, you'll have a threaded plug on top of the box cover to re-fill the box with Hypoid oil.  If not, you'll have a couple of plastic plugs on top of the cover.  Remove a plug (try not to destroy it, otherwise you'll have to find a replacement) and top off the box with 90-120 wt. Hypoid transmission oil.  DO NOT USE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID.  Yes, some will certainly leak out, but it's just oil, even if it's stinky - it won't kill you.  Replace the plug and you're good to go.  If the replaced plug leaks you can get a replacement (or a small rubber stopper) at a local hardware store.

Good luck!

OBTW:  Tie rod ends are cheap.  If the alignment guy tells you to replace it, replace it.  You don't want to be driving and have one let go, believe me.

Thank you Gordon for your post and thank you again to Barncobob. These helpful replies really prepare me to correct what is either worn or questionable with my front end. In fact, I am going to replace both Tie Rod assemblies and the Steering Damper which likely go back to 88/89 and ensure the steering box is adjusted and filled. I now know that I can get access, I know the tools needed and how to tackle the adjustment and I'm going to get on this beginning the next couple of days. Thanks for all your help on this.....Mike

Gordon, am I correct that where the Hex tool is shown in the photo (attached) is where the flat stock fits and the plumber's wrench is used to loosen the large hex nut around that...Mike

RE: tools for steering box adjustments

The large nut is 41mm, and I was able to purchase a Lisle tools open-end wrench for $16 on Amazon. For the large hex plug/allen key, it is about 22mm, but I found an English thread nut fits, I think it is a 7/8" wrench size. I welded that to a 8" or so piece of flat steel with a 20-30 degree bend. Adjust this first, as Gordon instructs.

The small nut on top is 13mm, and there is a screwdriver slot in the top that a right-angle screwdriver will fit. I was lazy and drilled a one-inch hole through my trunk and used a rubber hole plug after adjustment was finished.

Here is something that nobody has touched on:

Often times the Pitman arm on the bottom of the steering box is slightly loose. Even a fraction of a turn here can tighten the steering a LOT. This nut needs to be REALLY tight, so you should check this before anything else. This has happened to many folks and is an easy fix. This may be what the mechanic noticed about your inner tie-rod, but if that is worn you definitely need to replace that.

Good luck.

Danny, thanks for your additional input on this...everything you have added is helpful to me including drilling the 1" hole in body. I will definitely look at that Pitman Arm first. Like Gordon, the info on tools is great! Thank you!...Mike

No problem. That's why we are all here!

Danny is absolutely right about the pitman arm.  I suffered with loose steering for a couple of years before I put a long pipe over the wrench and turned the nut maybe another 1/8 turn.  The difference was phenomenal.  Be advised that there is no way you’ll get it tight enough without some sort of extension.

Lane...thanks for your addition with emphasis on close inspection of the Pitman arm....from all this input I now know exactly how I will proceed and the tools and materials I need to make tools from. Thank you everyone.......Mike

I got a new computer, and have yet to transfer all my photos. Otherwise, I would post the pictures of my steering box tools. I adjusted my box, which was not adjusted from TRW(new). I don't believe you can accurately adjust the box unless it's in a car with suspension and wheels attached. I did lend the tools to Alan "Doc Clock" at Carlisle, and he used them with no issues.

This is another way, takes up less space in the toolbox, too:

https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-9...=gateway&sr=8-18

Danny..thanks! I just ordered this tool from Amazon and I should get it in 2-3 days. Tomorrow I will try to find the hex nut to weld to some bar stock. I already have a 90 degree slotted screwdriver....Mike

Maybe double-check the Muir book or Bentley but I think the pitman arm torque spec is like 50 or 60 ft-lbs. Shouldn't need a bit pipe extension to get it right. 

x2 on doing that first.

Yeah, we all know that the torque spec is more rational than we are, and Bentley has it at 50 ft. lbs, but after 40-50 years the arm splines begin to wear (especially if it loosens just a trifle, then it’s a slippery downward slope) and the locking bolt needs a bit more encouragement to get back to it’s youthful vigor.  

In other words, torque the heck out of it!  An pipe extension on a ratchet should bring you up to about 80 ft. Lbs. and that sounds about right.

Thanks edsnova and Gordon for clarification of the torque spec and the explanation for increasing beyond that amount....I should know soon.......s.Mike

Check out the post by Hotrodsurplus half way down the page-

http://cal-look.no/lounge/inde...p/topic,19621.0.html

ALB, you have pointed us to an extremely thorough and helpful explanation of the original steering box and how to rebuild one by someone claiming first hand experience rebuilding many boxes. Thanks for adding this....Mike

Update for contributors and readers...this week I confirmed that the right side inner tie rod is bad and in fact I can hear a definitive sound from the bad one. I have not established yet whether the Pitman Arm needs tightening or the steering box needs adjustment...Steering seems responsive without play. Monday I will order a new pair of tie rods and steering damper to go with the recent King Pin job...Again, thank you to all!...Mike

Problem Solved! Happy Motoring now!

This morning I headed to a local shop with a platform hoist, armed with a box of new tie rods and steering damper and special tools diy following advice from forum members.

The mechanic welcomed all the advice I brought to him from this forum and commenced to meticulously inspect all front end parts. His findings were that no parts were needed (contrary to the advice from previous front-end alignment guy).

He adjusted the steering box which had a lot of slop from below without drilling a hole in the fibreglass and adjusted the toe-in to spec and put the car back on the ground. I took the car for a test drive on several different road surfaces at several different speeds. It handled great!

after leaving the shop I took the Speedster for the best and most enjoyable drive since buying and rebuilding the car 3 years ago.

Thank you to all for your help!!

Mike

Glad to hear it Mike! After all that help we deserve pics- let's see what your car looks like! How low is the front end? Do you know if there are caster shims under the bottom beam?

Sounds like that alignment tech deserves a nice case of craft beer, huh?  (hint)

Gordon and ALB...attached are a couple of photos....The bottom of the front bumper is 9" from the ground. I don't believe it has caster shims yet but I learned about them recently from reading the posts with comments about the improvements at higher speeds. I would like to install those next along with a front anti-sway bar.

Gordon, I forgot to address your point about the craft beer.....I was so pleased with not only the results of his work but equally pleased that he welcomed the advice of you guys with the experience working on these cars. He was quick to acknowledge that although he's been in the business for a long time, he seldom works on these.....After the test drive while settling up, I tucked enough in his shirt pocket to quench that after work thirst.

Great looking car, Mike! It could be a little lower, though, don't you think?

Ps- engine size? Do you know what's in it?

Mike's profile says CMC with a 912 (T-4) engine.

Mike, I've mentioned this on here before, but when I last got an alignment on my car the tech had a '67 VW Beetle, lowered, with a 2,110, as his Summer driver.  He also had lots of tattoos and a Purple Mohawk haircut but he was the first guy looking under my car when I drove it in to the shop and asked a lot about it even before he knew what it was in there for.

He did a fabulous job on the alignment and I was so pleased that I asked the owner if he drank beer and if so, what kind?  

The owner, a pretty good look-alike for John Belushi in the "Blues Brothers" said:

"I dunno - Some Kinda "Magic Hippy Beer" or something"

"You mean 'Magic Hat' from Vermont?"

"Yeah, that's the stuff......Magic Hippy Beer".

So I got him a case of mixed bottles and dropped it off for the shop, late one Friday.  It was like I gave them winning tickets to PowerBall.  Made me feel good, too.

That’s the spirit Gordon

Gordon, that's a great example of showing your appreciation in a way that people really appreciate it....you can never go wrong there. I'll be around the shop tomorrow morning again and have another opportunity to show my gratitude with that long drive under my belt...

ALB, thanks for your kind comments about my car...regarding the height and lowering it, your probably right and now that I've got it running and handling well, I can move on to focus more on those things. It sure is great to finally be out driving and enjoying it.

Mike

"Magic Hippy Beer."