Skip to main content

Excellent response, Carey. I might add that two defroster vents work well in a Spyder(rather than three in a Speedster), both in function and ease of installation. The wiper motor and linkage makes it tight under there. Carey's laser-cut aluminum defrost trim is a beautiful and functional way to do this. I'm sure Carey has a better way, but I used shop-vac pieces for under the dash and 1.5" defrost hose.

I have a few Beck parts on my car: the defrost vents, the steering wheel hub, the shift rod, and the really exclusive clamshell stay. I'm probably forgetting something.

Every part that Carey and the boys make is a finished and quality piece.

I also have a used Beck top, new windshield catches and clips for the top on the clamshell. The top is partially fitted: windshield catches and frame mounts by the seats are fitted. The top I purchased did not have a folding frame, it only had the two hoops. So I made a folding frame out of some flat steel and rivets for hinges. And finally ferrules for side curtains in the doors. I'm eventually going to install this top and make custom plexi side windows.

@chines1 posted:

OK, here's rundown of some answers from all of the above questions:  if I missed something you want answered, just tag me in the reply and I'll look back here later

The Spyder heater core is the same as Joe's Speedster, I believe it's a Mojave unit, all self contained, compact and has a 2 speed fan.  Controls are hidden, as is the choke cable for the H valve. It can have dedicated defrost and defroster vents can be added to the spyder dash, and then it otherwise dumps heat to the cockpit.  Our spyder column has a plate along the back side for adding things like these controls, 12v outlet, USB plug, etc...

The cup holders in Joe's car are a semi-copy of the Santana cup holders, but 1) the Santana popped open and I didn't like that, so these have a sightly stronger catch to prevent that and most importantly 2) the santana cup holders were too deep for the speedster rockers, so we put it all into CAD and made the face plate over 1" thick to offset the cup holder to fit our space.  They are VERY expensive to make.  From memory they were $400 each (material and machine time), plus I had a grand or two into CAD time for the first batch.  We refer to Joe's cupholders as the most expensive cup holders ever.

In a spyder, you could do this in the rockers, and the stock Santana cup holders should work fine for this location.  There are a few other locations that may work,  but that would also depend on how you fit/sit in the car.  I like mine just forward of the seat, essentially between my legs, but that would not work without the seat all the way back and would also depend on how well you fit under the steering wheel.  For my size it is not an issue...

Carey.  Is the core for combined A/C, heater in the speedster the same size as Joe's heater core?  I think I could live with the size of Joe's core.  (I know that's what she said)  I'd really like to avoid the under dash valance in my build just to hide the core.  I'd rather just have under dash vent and defrost and forgo the valance with the vents.

Last edited by 550 Phil
@DannyP posted:

Excellent response, Carey. I might add that two defroster vents work well in a Spyder (rather than three in a Speedster), both in function and ease of installation. The wiper motor and linkage makes it tight under there. Carey's laser-cut aluminum defrost trim is a beautiful and functional way to do this. I'm sure Carey has a better way, but I used shop-vac pieces for under the dash and 1.5" defrost hose.

Do your defroster vents run all the time the heater is running/blowing?
Or is the defroster only ran with the Top Up?

@550 Phil posted:

Carey.  Is the core for combined A/C, heater in the speedster the same size as Joe's heater core?  I think I could live with the size of Joe's core.  (I know that's what she said)  I'd really like to avoid the under dash valance in my build just to hide the core.  I'd rather just have under dash vent and defrost and forgo the valance with the vents.

The small core is heat only.  The AC/heat combo is 2-3x the size.

@chines1 posted:

Not sure on Danny's but we have a heater unit, same size as Joe's, that has a blend switch so you can with between floor and defrost.

I have never seen defroster vents on a Spyder.

If I have a Beck SE Spyder being built with the solo windscreen and hard half tonneau  convertible to full windshield,  would the defroster vents be in the way of the mounting attachments on the dash?

Thanks.

Last edited by americanworkmule

I don't think there's any way I would put defrost vents in my 550. I want the heat for body warmth, particularly for my kid when driving her to/from school. If for some reason I had to put the top on the car and drive in rain and I needed to defog I'll grab a rag and wipe off the inside of the windshield as often as necessary. But I don't EVER expect any of that to happen.

One year at Carlisle I made up a bunch of "Five Cent Racing" Windshield De-Foggers for the raffle.  They were made from a piece of chamois leather ( bought at Autozone - get the nice soft kind, not the el-cheapo-stiff-as-a-board kind ) wrapped around a sponge and stitched all around.  It was roughly the size of your outstretched hand.  I included an instruction sheet with each one telling what it was and how to use it - I mean, it's pretty simple......  You wipe it across your windshield and PooF!  The inside fog is gone.

People looked at them like they were something from the days of the Spanish Inquisition.  Then, over time, those people started using them and I started getting PMs and emails telling me, "Hey!  I used your windshield de-fogger and the damned thing works!"   And now you know how to make one, too.  I have one in Pearl and another in Kelvinator and, honestly, I've never had to use them but they're there, just in case.

Thank you. I love the vents too, Carey does gorgeous work on all his custom parts and pieces. No way I could make a part that nice. The curve matches the binnacle/brow nicely.

I've been driving Spyders for 15 years and over 45,000 miles. You don't need to take my advice, but experience does matter here. I may not have the most time or miles, but I have driven in everything from freezing rain and cold hail to high humidity 100F temps. I've done many AutoX. I've done a couple DE track days at Lime Rock. I even crashed a Spyder and walked(limped?) away.

This is not directed at any one person. Just trying to help out the new guys is all.

Last edited by DannyP

THIS^^^^

I have a fair number of creature comforts in my Spyder. Heat/defrost. Heated seats. Bluetooth receiver/amp/speakers. A future top and side curtains.

These options add only a tiny amount of weight. But Ed is correct, the car is designed to be as light as possible and run hillclimbs, endurance and sportscar races. It has all the noise and heat in the back, so it doesn't wear you down except for the wind. It's really good on tire wear too.

I tried to make my Spyder an everything car. But it's not. It's a great curvy mountain road slayer. I'll leave it like that, with the ability to listen to tunes(with the wife) and keep her warm when needed.

A Spyder is not a GT car. It is not a boulevard cruiser. It's not even a particularly good stoplight racer(unless you have LSD and short gears).

A Spyder is a bare-bones, elemental, and raw tool. Don't round the edges too much. Keep the edges sharp.

Future upgrades for me? Install my new sticky Vred tires and build a nice close-ratio mountain gearbox. Eventually install the top. That's it.

I already bought another sharp-edged and long-legged track and GT/trip car. Cayman S.

Buy more toys. Then you get to choose which arrow you pull out of the quiver.

Last edited by DannyP
@DannyP posted:

THIS^^^^

I have a fair number of creature comforts in my Spyder. Heat/defrost. Heated seats. Bluetooth receiver/amp/speakers. A future top and side curtains.

These options add only a tiny amount of weight. But Ed is correct, the car is designed to be as light as possible and run hillclimbs, endurance and sportscar races. It has all the noise and heat in the back, so it doesn't wear you down except for the wind. It's really good on tire wear too.

I tried to make my Spyder an everything car. But it's not. It's a great curvy mountain road slayer. I'll leave it like that, with the ability to listen to tunes(with the wife) and keep her warm when needed.

A Spyder is not a GT car. It is not a boulevard cruiser. It's not even a particularly good stoplight racer(unless you have LSD and short gears).

A Spyder is a bare-bones, elemental, and raw tool. Don't round the edges too much. Keep the edges sharp.

Future upgrades for me? Install my new sticky Vred tires and build a nice close-ratio mountain gearbox. Eventually install the top. That's it.

I already bought another sharp-edged and long-legged track and GT/trip car. Cayman S.

Buy more toys. Then you get to choose which arrow you pull out of the quiver.

Yep. IMO, nothing says it better than “four-wheeled motorcycle.”  I have a 968 for GT-ing. I like the Spyder “elemental.”  

Yeah, the pieces under the dash are shop-vac accessories from True-Value. The hose is made for heater/defroster usage. Got the hose on ebay I think. The right-most part in this picture.

shop vac

Secured under the dash with black-painted screws from the top. The area under the aluminum is all painted black, makes it look factory. And the shop-vac pieces are a bit larger than the aluminum, only a small area was cut out of the fiberglass.

I forgot to say skip the A/C in my post up above. IF you have a top(and it is a true EMERGENCY top at that), the A/C will get lost in the open air. The heat though is very effective, 8000 Btu and a half-tonneau make you comfortable down to the low 40s. If you ride with your other half in the cold, neither one of you will be comfortable.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • shop vac
Last edited by DannyP
Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×