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Pulling a Subaru engine is only slightly more difficult than the Type 1. Drain the coolant, disconnect the hoses and wire harness ECU clip(s), turn the engine over a few times to kill the fuel pressure and then disconnect those hoses, then turn the bolts holding the engine to the transaxle and lower it out like the VW engine.

As for the ceramic plate...I'll leave comment on that to the experts.

Ceramic clutch plates have the advantage of withstanding temps of up to 1000 degrees F, so they are well suited for racing applications.  Downside is decreased drivability for street use and the tendency to shudder when engaging.  You may want to drive a car that has a ceramic clutch first.  Apologies if you're way ahead of me.  I find they are as unwelcome as racing suspension on a street car.   Sounds good, but a PITA in my opinion.  Others may disagree.

Looks like I will have Mike on the road for a few days next week (finally) and he will include a stop at your place to look at the Speedster.  For those who don't know, Chuck had heart surgery na few weeks ago and our travel plans were delayed.

As for your clutch, you have a brand new Sachs HD and a new Daycon disc in your car. I'd lean towards a clutch cable adjustment as the culprit, as I have nearly 100 Suby powered cars on the road with the same set-up and not a single issue with the Sachs HD clutch.  Hopefully you haven't burned up a main seal and your slipping is fluid related...

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