Skip to main content

I have an ongoing problem with oil temps in my Beck.  It was around 80 in Atlanta yesterday and had it on the expressway for about 10 miles at between 3000 and 3500 rpm and the gauge got up to 250, and that was with the heater valve turned on.  I pushed it off and the temp began to climb even higher.  Nothing is clogging the radiator and my radiator and oil are full, Ideas anyone

Meade

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I wonder if your system has air in it and there is low circulation.  

A procedure that I added to my yearly start up is to have the system integrity verified.

My suggestion is to start by making sure to Tighten every clamp etc. This will make sure the system is not leaking at any spot. 

Then have the system bled, completely every start, of every season.   This will make sure the system is not low in fluid which it may not be low in fluid as Carey has a very straight path to his one radiator he uses in his setup. 

My setup is more complicated with 2 radiators and a lot of highs and lows in the coolant tubing travel so I had to do it to rule out other issues I had with the cooling system.  

BTW All of them were fixed, resolved, since I added a second overflow tank but I continue to get it done yearly... just in case.  

Different powertrain brings different issues and a learning curve but I hands down like and would choose again the Subie engine, torque, power and tranny more than my 2110cc  3:44 type I ... any day. 

P.S.  I added a temperature sensor with a buzzer to alert me of high temp for the engine and tranny. 

P.P.S. Check your oil it probably got consumed a little, instead of the coolant when it hit 250.  Just saying.

 

@Meade

Last edited by IaM-Ray

Have you asked Carey? He knows the Suby cars inside and out. He is the first one I call if my Suby has an issue. As you may know I have a similar setup as yours in my Fiberfab Speedster. The water pump may be failing and not moving the coolant well. You thermostat my be stuck partially open. Your gauge may be wrong (doubtful but possible) the radiator may be dirty or obstructed. Your brakes could be dragging causing the engine to labor harder than usual (I know it is doubtful but things that I have seen) Have you read the ECU via the OBDII port for any codes? Good luck, I hope you get it figured out. Please let me know what it turns out being, it may happen to me in the future.

Last edited by Jimmy V.

Meade,

Coolant temps and oil temps are linked, so please provide more info on your situation.  When you oil temp gauge shows 250, what does your coolant temp gauge show?  

I would check the accuracy of your sending unit and oil temp gauge by using a hand-held temp gauge that you insert in the dipstick.  Since you have a Subi engine, you may be able to check oil temps using your OBDII port also.

Synthetic oil can withstand oil temps far higher than 250 without significant shearing, and dino oils are almost as good.  How many miles on the oil in the engine and what weight? Synth or dino?

Many times, the most difficult part of the car "fix" is determining what is actually wrong.  Describing the symptom, i.e., hot oil, is not describing the problem.  Installing an oil cooler will lower oil temps, but it would be nice to know first if your oil is really at 250F.  

When you turn on your heater during hot oil events, you are actually installing a secondary radiator in your system, the heater core, so your coolant is able to shed additional heat, and your oil temp drops. 

As others have stated, Carey is likely your best source for gold-plated info.

 

Last edited by Jim Kelly

Once cooled down, check your radiator and overflow bottle to make sure they aren't low.  Your system is done exactly as we do current stock systems and you shouldn't see temps over 200 degrees., but if you do it is most likely air on the coolant system.

 Likewise, your scan tool should be able to show you live data and exact actual temps.  I'd be watching that and comparing also.

Carey, thanks for the offer if Mike is coming down to see Chuck.  DEFINITELY have him stop by or tell me where to meet him.  I have a garage where he can look at it.  THANKS A TON!!

Thanks to all of you guys who came forth with suggestions; I keep on meaning to check with my wife's cooking thermometer on the oil and I'm going to try the unit that Ray suggested. My dash is already desecrated with gauges anyway...

@Meade posted:

Carey, thanks for the offer if Mike is coming down to see Chuck.  DEFINITELY have him stop by or tell me where to meet him.  I have a garage where he can look at it.  THANKS A TON!!

Thanks to all of you guys who came forth with suggestions; I keep on meaning to check with my wife's cooking thermometer on the oil and I'm going to try the unit that Ray suggested. My dash is already desecrated with gauges anyway...

Some put it in the engine compartment or hide it out of sight.  

I put mine under the dash and I have to bend down a bit to see it like at a stop light but the buzzer is an extra feature that allows you to hide it, subtly  

(BTW, I ordered the DUAL sensor and I installed one sensor on one cylinder head, and the other on the tranny using a bolt hole at the mid line. I really gives you an idea how long it takes for the oil temperature to get to full operating temperature)

 

Attachments

Images (3)
  • mceclip0
  • mceclip1
  • mceclip2
Last edited by IaM-Ray

@Meade you should be able to buy them on ebay BUT look at the sensor cable direction, where it comes out, it usually comes out on the side.  

I took mine apart and gently drilled and moved it to the back and used JBweld to seal up the side hole and a little touch up paint hid everything. 

I found out that you can ORDER THE cable direction if you call them in Australia. 

BTW I don't know why he can't ship it maybe he thinks your in the Georgia  which is in Russia or somewhere like that  

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×