Does anyone on here have one or pictures of one..............Bruce
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Bruce, I built one (very similar to the one Alan pictured) in the early 70's to haul my sand rail. I built the trailer to be very light and totally functional, and could be stored on it's side to save space.
T-trailer hooked up to car, drive sand rail up-and over-ramps, continue driving forward until front torsion tubes contact the 'stop' and rear tires are positioned on the platforms. Strap down rear tires to platform, secure front beam to 'stop' and away you go to the dunes.
I had a '73 Pinto station wagon (that's another story) that towed my t-trailer & sand rail to Pismo Dunes at Pismo Beach and Glamis Dunes down along the Mexico border. Did this for several years until I could afford a full trailer. Pinto wagon actually proved to be a reliable car and we slept in the rear until we could afford a truck and camper.
Shoot, Bruce. I wish d have seen this before I headed over to my brother's house today. He has a Chenowith buggy and (what he believes to be) a custom factory trailer. From memory, it looks similar to what Alan posted. If it's too hot to play with the Spyder tomorrow, I'll go over and take some pics for you.
How much does that T-trailer weigh? I'm thinking 300-400 pounds at least.
IMHO, you're sacrificing a lot in ease-of-use for a little weight savings.
The Formula Vee homemade trailer I converted for a Spyder weighs 700 pounds all-up: single axle 15" radial tires, electric brakes, spare, hand crank winch, and aluminum ramps that stow under the car and lock to the trailer. All lighting is LED, and all light grounds are run in the harness, so no wiring/lighting problems EVER!
Lane bought it for his new soon-to-be-delivered coupe. It can handle up to a 2800 pound load, safely I might add.
I’ll add a few pounds for a front wheel thingy (what are those called , anyway?), but the whole shebang should be well below Pam’s Outback’s 3500 lb capacity.
A Spyder on the back of that would weigh less than 2000 lbs, total, maybe less than 1800 lbs. You could probably pull it with an original Mini.
I'm not scared of very much at all, but I wouldn't put my car on it.
Lane, even at 2000 pounds for your car(I'm betting less) you'll be 2700 pounds all-up, well within your towing limits.
Thanks for the photos. I used to have one of these trailers when I was in my dune buggy stage and it worked really well. It was longer than most and made of steel tubing. It was still light enough that I could stand it up against the side of my garage at my previous home. Now I'm thinking about building one for a Spyder. It would be made of aluminum tubing and lower. Probably torsion bar suspension. The rear would have 2 wheel ramps and a centered, extended tube that inserts into the center support tube that extends all the way up to the hitch. This removable tube would extend out the rear and down at an angle to the ground further out than the ramps so the car is being lifted high enough to clear the underside until the rear wheels start to climb the ramps. The Spyder would have teflon lined channel mounted underneath that can be removed when not needed. This would engage with the center support tube to guide the car up onto the trailer. As the car moves forward, the rear wheels would start climbing the ramps and onto the shallow wheel dishes. Straps around the tires and a pin through the front guide to secure the car. Right now, I have in mind to use 13" wheels of some sort. I know a good welder who knows how to bend aluminum tubing. I guessing less than 300 lbs. but certainly easy to maneuver around for storage and strong enough to carry the car. Heck ! I could even polish it ! Let me know your thoughts guys...............Bruce
P.S. This would be a time when I wish I knew how to use a real CAD system !
Just a heads up: every State's DOT can stop an apportioned (tow & towed vehicle combo) for a DOT safety inspection and that where the fun begins. The DOT guys like to come down on non Commercial Vehicles, you are now their subjects. Inspecting trailer assembly, tires, lighting, method of securing load , inspect ratchet straps for proper certification) coupler, proper count and securement of safety chains etc. They will get out their pens when they see how a T' trailer is actually built and how the loaded vehicle is secured......
Bruce, what is your tow vehicle?
I know you are a very smart and capable fabricator.
I'm sure that whatever you build will work and be safe and strong enough.
I'm just thinking that to build a T trailer and to do all that engineering is making it too complicated for not a lot of gain. The trailer I had modified is 700 pounds all-up WITH 205/15 radials and spare and brakes(which I highly recommend, especially when towing with a smaller car). Just about any vehicle that can tow will handle 2200 pounds.
I've seen some cars with a 1000 or 1500 pound limit, which you'd clearly be over. Then they jump to 2500 or more, where you'd end up being safely under.
CA has CHP pick up trucks just for pulling trucks/trailers over, have portable scales in the back..
An Aluma 7814STILT trailer is 14 ft long, and weighs 750, all in. An Aluma 8214HSTILT is 1064 lbs, with a higher payload, breakaway brakes, and available ramps (the Slingshot option) for a super-low approach angle.
There's a lot to love already being built by manufacturers.