Just a quick update: The engine is in solid now (there were complications) and I've got new nylon-braided oil lines and fittings ordered (after trying four different ways to re-do the oil lines.

I bolted the starter back in this am along with the breather tube and coil bracket, and re-filled the transaxle with gear oil. 

Here's a sexy shot of my car's jack as test-fitted, followed by a pic of the same parts on 550-0073.IMG_E4277

jack 0073

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The jack works but it seems to want you to NOT set the hand brake or put the car in gear. The car seems to want to roll a little as the jack levers under it. It's a little scary to do it. I might get a small conventional scissor jack and stow it somewhere.

Meanwhile, I'll just note for the record...

escutchen detail 0073escutchen detail

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Small update. Oil lines redone (maybe for the last time?) and so I put oil back in the engine and bolted the exhaust back on. Weirdly, it's tighter to the frame than it was before, so I'll loosen all the nuts tomorrow and see if I can adjust it.

Still gotta test the clutch but now I can maybe start the engine to do that.

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IF I can get clutch (wish me luck!) I'll be able to go ahead and tighten up everything— shifter cables, re-align the wheels, big axle nuts, etc. etc.—and then put the rear shocks, engine cover and various dust-excluding accoutrements back on the car. Then hang the driver's door, put the floor in and be at last ready for her close-up with the Maryland State Police and MVA.

Gratuitous shot of 550-0054's open engine bay follows:

 

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Tested clutch again this am. IT WORKS!

So of course I then hooked up the e-brake and then immediately pulled it and bent it cut it down and pulled the shifter to mod the e-brake mount to make it lower so it'll be more like an original. There is something really wrong with me.

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I can lower the round mount thing about 3/4 of an inch to bring the top of it even with the top of the shifter housing, and lower the front of the handle the same to get it closer to the top of the bulkhead. This will make it more like they actually were and give the driver just a skosh more leg room. While I'm at it, I'll also add another mounting screw to the front "leg" of the handle to tighten everything up, since it was just a little wobbly before.

While I'm welding stuff, I also plan to make a stiffening brace for the pedal box up front, as I noticed just a little movement there as well when the brakes were getting pumped violently for final (?) bleeding. It's only about 6-7 inches to the back of the beam mount and there are already bolts in it for the sway bar, so it should be a simple matter to fab up a T with some angle iron and half-inch round steel, with a loop to bolt it through.

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