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Big buggers, aren't they?

For a 17mm nut, the proper torque for that depends on the bolt grade.  Ace Hardware grade should see 38 ft. lbs. and Grade 8 is 50 ft. lbs.

Here's a Handy Chart for yah.  Just click on the blue highlight.

I would also put some locktite blue on them, or a flat washer and lockwasher against the nut, or toss those plain nuts and get some 17mm nylon insert stopnuts (sometimes called "Nylok nuts) instead.  Those shouldn't loosen up.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

The chart Gordon links to above is handy, but only refers to maximum torque values.  While these values do apply to high torque applications like lug nuts and axle nuts, they would not apply to low torque uses, such as an oil pan drain plug.  Gordon's suggestion of lock washer and loctite is a practical solution for many automotive uses.  Overtightening can cause damage to the fasteners themselves and to the parts being joined.

No official torque spec for the body to chassis bolts, but I'd suggest the same torque as a 10mm VW body to pan bolt which is 15-20 ft/lbs.  They are nylock nuts but they do have a rubber pad between the frame and body, which may have shrunk or flattened out over the last 16 years.

As mentioned above, the body/chassis is bonded from stem to stern and the bolts are mainly used for alignment purposes when the chassis is inserted into the mold. You'd be fine without them, but there is also no point of having loose bolts so just snug them up.

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