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Well, since getting it done just before Carlisle, I put about 800 completely trouble-free miles on my car. So I got it really warm a few days ago and dumped the trans oil. It came out very clean, only a few metal bits on the magnetic plugs.


I put in Redline Synthetic Shockproof gear oil, 75W90. But under shock loading, it is supposed to be 250 weight. Looks like Pepto Bismol, only more toward red than pink. We'll see. I did take a 100 mile ride and it shifted exactly the same, smooth and easy.


I also had a tire rubbing issue in the front, due to new Airkewld brakes having a wider track. So I dismounted the front tires, and then cut all the welds between the rim and wheel center. Then I squared it up and moved the center OUT to push the tires IN, and tack-welded it. Threw it on the wheel balancer to check true, then mig-welded it for real, 8 2 inch long beads per wheel, duplicating the original welding. It's all painted and mounted and balanced now. Two thumbs up!


The wheels are now back where they were and not rubbing except for extreme bumps(just like they've always done).


Next step will be to fabricate caliper brackets from some 1/4" plate I have. Then move the wheels in another 3/8", which should be perfect! It never ends.......

2016 Vintage Spyder 2165 type1 EFI/Dry Sumped

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Well done, Danny! Glad to hear the transaxle rebuild is working out well. Changing the backspacing on your wheels is not for the average backyard shmuck. I know you have the welder, but do you have a lathe in your garage as well? We live in a townhouse and I share the smallish (20x19?) garage with the family car and all the other crap a family of 5 generates- bikes, skis and other sporting stuff, camping equipment, freezer and more. Is fabricating new caliper brackets for the back?

Thanks boys! It wasn't easy but needed to be done.


Al, the caliper brackets are for the front. I want to push the front wheels in a bit more, to about where Carey runs them on his cars. The Airkewld front brakes push them out more than I would have liked. I think most of his customers use narrowed beams. You pan Speedster folks(and Cory) can narrow the beam, but us Spyder guys can't, beam is welded and is just wider than the frame rails.

Did a few tweaks today that I've been meaning to. Turn signal wouldn't return from the left, so I greased it up. Put some braided steel over the German hose fuel lines for protection.


Then I delved into my carbs, and swapped the old float valves for brand new ones. Did you know that you should set the float top height AFTER you set the drop? Apparently, my floats were set way too high adjusting them in reverse. Oops!


So checked it all out, warmed it up, set idle synch and mixture, then checked high speed. Didn't have to touch it, it is perfectly spot-on. The only thing that was off was the accelerator pump volume. This changed when I rebuilt the carbs with new diaphragms. Anyway, it is back to the perfect it used to be last year.


Trans shifts perfectly, brakes are sorted, pretty much just need to keep driving now

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