Did some spirited driving today. I left from a stop light in first, no issues. Shifted to second, gear would not engage. Stranded.
Shifting gears, they all feel like they are engaging and the engine revs freely. Clutch peddle is firm and sounds like it’s moving. Pulled the car home (was back in the neighborhood). When pulled, I hear a clicking sound. Car can be pulled in or out of gear, makes no difference.
Thoughts on where to start?
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Rear drum hub(s) stripped from 36mm nut not being torqued to 200+ pounds. Pull rear hubs to see if brake drum (most likely) or the axle stub is stripped.
broke a CV joint
^^ That ^^
Good call, Carey!
@WOLFGANG posted:Rear drum hub(s) stripped from 36mm nut not being torqued to 200+ pounds. Pull rear hubs to see if brake drum (most likely) or the axle stub is stripped.
you will normally see some metal shavings at the 36mm nut if the axle ate the brake drum splines.
Yeah, stripped drum splines usually produces a grinding sound, rather than a clicking sound (Don't ask me how I know.) 😡
Thanks! I'll check those two items one of the next few evenings and report back.....then ask where to get the parts ordered from!
@MSUConrad posted:Thanks! I'll check those two items one of the next few evenings and report back.....then ask where to get the parts ordered from!
Is the car IRS or swing axle?
It's an IRS car with rear discs. When replacing I'd use the Lobro brand CVs, assuming you have 90mm (from memory you do) and I would double check rear ride height. CV angle gets worse the lower you go.
Not sure, it's a 2023 Beck Speedster....so whatever is the more awesome one is likely what I have!
Thanks Carey, I have not adjusted the ride height from delivery. Plan for the weekend is to get it on jack stands and check it all out.
We just made the change to Lobro on all builds regardless of HP. Previously only the higher HP (aircooled) builds got them (Subaru builds use a larger off-road CV) but we've had 3 CV failures on lower HP cars. Out of probably 70-80 builds that's not a horrible number, but 3 more than Id like to see so might as well spend the extra $300 and avoid it all around. I know Brad just placed an order for more, so you can catch him in the office for a set.
@chines1 posted:We just made the change to Lobro on all builds regardless of HP. Previously only the higher HP (aircooled) builds got them (Subaru builds use a larger off-road CV) but we've had 3 CV failures on lower HP cars. Out of probably 70-80 builds that's not a horrible number, but 3 more than Id like to see so might as well spend the extra $300 and avoid it all around. I know Brad just placed an order for more, so you can catch him in the office for a set.
Why not go to Type 2 cv’s? I’m making an assumption that you are using new stub axles and drive axles, so this would be a simple changeover.
@LI-Rick posted:Why not go to Type 2 cv’s? I’m making an assumption that you are using new stub axles and drive axles, so this would be a simple changeover.
I may jinx myself, but I've used the same German Lobro T1 CV joints (not the same kind, the same ones) for 20 years with every permutation of engine and transaxle I've had back there (including 2 years of a 200 hp 2332 and 3 years of the twin-plug 2276). There's zero wear every time I pull them apart.
I'd rather have a T1 Lobro CV than a 930 (or T2) Empi Chinesium CV any day of the week.
My opinion and $10 will buy you a cup of coffee at most Starbucks. YMMV
@LI-Rick posted:Why not go to Type 2 cv’s? I’m making an assumption that you are using new stub axles and drive axles, so this would be a simple changeover.
Yes, new stubs and custom made axles.
T2 and 930 CV bolt heads won't clear the springs on a coilover. Even machined down to the lowest profile possible, they'll contact on full compression. The 90mm Lobros have proven themselves, and especially with a few "stock' failures now they'll just become the norm for all.
@chines1 posted:Yes, new stubs and custom made axles.
T2 and 930 CV bolt heads won't clear the springs on a coilover. Even machined down to the lowest profile possible, they'll contact on full compression. The 90mm Lobros have proven themselves, and especially with a few "stock' failures now they'll just become the norm for all.
The coilover suspension is something I hadn’t considered. Thanks!
@Stan Galat posted:I may jinx myself, but I've used the same German Lobro T1 CV joints (not the same kind, the same ones) for 20 years with every permutation of engine and transaxle I've had back there (including 2 years of a 200 hp 2332 and 3 years of the twin-plug 2276). There's zero wear every time I pull them apart.
I'd rather have a T1 Lobro CV than a 930 (or T2) Empi Chinesium CV any day of the week.
My opinion and $10 will buy you a cup of coffee at most Starbucks. YMMV
That’s a great track record Stan. Back when I was drag racing a Ghia, I broke a few German type 1 cv’s. I changed to Type 2 and I don’t remember breaking another. I probably only had 150hp back then, but I guess that is what happens when you launch at 6500 rpm on slicks. 😂
