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@Joel Roth posted:

I just looked a pictures of the two colors side by side and I see the green in the Miami Blue. I like the Mexico Blue better. Very "hot". Another option to think about, just when I thought I was set on GT Silver.

Miami Blue looks too much like turquoise to me. If you're going for 1980s, go for it.

Mexico Blue looks great and is pretty close to French Blue(550 Spyder color). Those colors "look right" to me. As does the 1957 Aquamarine. Almost any solid blue or grey/blue looks great to me as long as there is no metallic in it.

Hmmm...  That turquoise sure looks a lot like Oslo.  Regardless, Porsche seems to have a plethora of cool blue shades.

Some names and numbers have changed over the years. My 92 “Midnight Blue” 968 is actually a very dark metallic purple. The modern Midnight Blue is almost black. There is a deep red in the current catalogue that’s virtually “Ruby Red” that’s now called something else.

Something isn't right about the Oslo blue sample.  My car, and every other one I've seen in Oslo blue look more like what they label as Royal blue.  Maybe it's a monitor thing.  oh well, no matter.  I like what I have whatever it's called.

Lots of room for error: chip, photo, monitor, etc. Plus, it’s hard for your eyes to decipher true color when they’re side by side.

It’s also why Autobody suppliers don’t use paint codes/chips to match color if the paint is 10+ years old. They use a refractometer or whatever that gizmo is called that measures the wavelength of the paint.

ps: The Aetna Blue is off too. It’s way more blue than grey.822812CE-A92F-43C3-8EDB-59CD1CB3AD28


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  • 822812CE-A92F-43C3-8EDB-59CD1CB3AD28
Last edited by dlearl476

I've said it before, and I'll say it again, get it down to two or three you like. Then pay a local supplier (or find one online) to make an aerosol can of the three finalists. Spray them on some large speed shapes, or some 4" PVC plumbing pipe caps (something with curves will show how much it changes on the curves of the car). Do a good job, prep well, spray well, and clear coat.

Now you can take them out in the sun, the shade, etc. and see what they'll look like. I don't recommend setting them out right next to each other, and try put them on a neutral background, or at least on asphalt (don't sit them on the green green grass of home). Putting colors next to other colors will change how your eye perceives them.

Now you've made a choice, it's cost you some time and <$150 to do, and you also now have an accurate sample to use when comparing interior fabric and leather samples for trim choices.

A computer and pictures off the internet have so many issues from hardware to software, that the pictures can't possibly represent reality. In this case the blues at the top of the list have subtle differences and on a custom car approaching a hundred grand it makes sense to go the extra mile and spend 0.0015% of that to make sure you get what you're gonna love.

I did this with about 4 different samples, tried them on all different kinds of light, hemmed and hawed and worked my way made a choice I was confident about.  It really helped me steer clear of the waffling that happens while waiting for a three year build process to wind down.

You all know I am having Carey build a rear engine version of the Beck Super Coupe for me with a water-cooled Porsche 911 engine out of a 996. Those engines come with an air intake plenum. I was thinking of changing that to Individual Throttle Bodies with Velocity Stacks to give the motor that "old school" Porsche air cooled racing look.

What do you think?

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This is the description of the set-up:

Porsche 911 water cooled ITB throttle body kit from Jenvey Dynamics includes six SF48/4.5/1 taper throttle bodies with a special linkage, two EFI inlet manifolds, two fuel rails and six 90mm long taper airhorns. Jenvey throttle bodies and all Jenvey throttle body accessories are engineered for Motorsport, offering excellent performance, reliability, lightness and value. This kit is ideal for road, track or rally use. This kit is for early watercooled 911 and boxster engines.


Last edited by Joel Roth
@Joel Roth posted:

They give the motor the look of having Tripple Weber 40 or 44 IDA down draft carbs, but with modern fuel injection.

That would be the Weber IDA 3C(PMO today).

I don't know if ITBs are a desired option.  The plenum of the watercooled cars is designed to give good throttle response AND torque at all rpms. And isn't it already variable length? As in Vario-ram?

I'd check with Carey on this, if he's using a factory ECU I don't think ITB is possible.

But yeah, they certainly look cool.

I know they can be done, 986/996 guys have done so already.  My guess is that you'd have to go to standalone management and/or find someone to do alpha-n tuning.  Again, I'm sure it can and has been done, but remember, when tuning alpha-n it is essentially a generic or default tune for throttle position and fuel demand and eliminates an actual measurement of the air mass or volume.  In short, you lose stock drivability, cold start warm up, etc in place for a little more power and a look.  And that doesn't even begin to touch the surface on things like camshaft optimization, etc...  BUT, you guys know me and I am all about stock tune, drivability, and end user simplicity.  ITBs eliminate all of that.

Joel, take a look at this. The stock intake is very good indeed.

Engineering Explained Porsche Intakes

While that's not the exact same as the intake on the engine Carey will use, the design concept was introduced on the 996. The slowest heaviest stock 996 model weighed about 3200 lbs, had 296 hp and 258 ft lbs of torque, and did 0-60 in 5 seconds.

You'll drop almost a third of the weight. I'm sure an air filter and performance exhaust will kick you over 300 bhp.  That'll put you into supercar territory with about 6.5 pounds per hp. A Bugatti Veyron is at 8 lbs per hp. It''l be killer quick and you can still go to the shops in it. Just make sure that when you go to pick up milk it's pointed directly at the A&P when you pull the trigger!

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