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While checking the valve lash soon, I'll be changing out the valve cover gaskets ( not knowing what's in there now  ), but I'm seeing different types for 1600 cc up to 2000 cc engines and non specifically for 2332. I have the standard VW bail type covers and hear that the OEM cork gaskets are the way to go. Any recommends appreciated...Stan, please...anyone ? Thanks.

David Stroud

 '92 IM Roadster D 2.3 L Air Cooled

Ottawa, Canada

 

Original Post
Stan Galat posted:

Unless you have something really wild (you don’t), use the standard cork gaskets available everywhere. 

Thanks, Stan. Ron nor Henry could share no light on my engine's build other than knowing Darren Krewenchuck built it. You seem to be familiar with it though. Can you shed any light on the innards of my engine as built ?  I think Henry told me .002" and .003" cold on the tappet adjustment. Sound right ? Thanks. 

Last edited by David Stroud IM Roadster D

Others will have to share with you David but On the IM web site there are some ACooled docs on my 2110cc from CB is was like 

001”” and a .002”” 

I think in the end CB recommends like 0.000 which was like the feeler moves if you can find it... 

 

Here is from the docs. 

" For all 1600 cc motors and 2000 cc as well as 2100 cc motors equipped with aluminum push rods you will need a .004”” and a .005”” feeler gauge. For recent 2000 cc 2100 cc motors equipped with chrome molly steel push rods you will need .001”” and a .002”” feeler gauge. Check the specifications sheet on your specific vehicle for proper clearance. If not available, remove rocker assembly and establish push rod material prior to adjusting. 

David,

I know very little about your particular engine, other than Darren K. built it, and Ron later converted it to dry sump. 

The reason I was able to answer your query right away is because every Type 1 head, except for REALLY wild drag-race only stuff uses the same rocker box (and therefore valvecover gasket).

You don’t have CE heads, so you’re fine with the standard cork gaskets. And Lane is right—if you have steel pushrods (and I’d bet you do), they get set to loose zero. It’s really ridiculously easy to do, if that’s the case. 

Gordon Nichols posted:

Haven't heard of "Heavy Duty Aluminum Push Rods" either.

Would like some more detailed info on them.

aircooled.net has them.

I’ve got an unused set in my stash, and I’m not surprised Pat uses them and recommends setting them to loose zero. Valve lash is a calibrated safety factor, meant as a   “best guess” how much the engine will grow vs. grow much the pushrods will grow at operating temperature.

I have no experience with them, but my guess is that he knows they grow less than the engine. 

Last edited by Stan Galat

I have the fancy schmancy CB Performance valve covers with the "life time" silicone gaskets. They are a bit fiddly to be sure you don't pinch the gasket or tighten one side of the cover more than the other and create a leak.  Knowing what I know now , I would stay with the bails and the cork. 

Also, I have the HD aluminum push rods and was told to use .004 and .005 "snug". Most important that they are the same.

This is why it's madness.

To para-phrase Stan, I are a lineman.

Robert M posted:

The experience I have with the motor so far is that it runs EXTREMELY cooler than my previous motor. I even changed the thermal switch in my cooler to a 190 degree thermal switch so the oil would get just a little warmer before the fan comes on.

Can you refresh our memories as to what the current engine combo consists of, Robert? Thanks in advance. Al

205° after a long spirited run sounds just about perfect.

On valve cover gaskets, I’ve used both the cork and the cork with some sort of black composite rubbery stuff.

Both have worked fine for me.

Same old caution - make sure they don’t buckle somewhere during installation and leak at that point and you’ll be fine.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

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