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 I come across Speedsters, that have the seat back carpet pulling away from the seat . 3M or other contact adhesive will not hold to the finished vinyl surface ( it tends to roll) for very long .  I did fine this Vinyl Cement that works great called :  HH -66,  in a  4 oz. cans . Do wear a mask using this stuff .  Can be found on eBay for under $20 shipped.       https://www.ebay.com/itm/HH-66..._CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524

Last edited by Alan Merklin
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I wonder if it would stick the 3/8" thick rubber/foam sound deadener to the inside of my doors?  Last time I looked in there (years ago, cuz how often do you have your doors apart?) it looked like "tumble-down city" because the 3-M super-duper stuff for upholstery let go of the inside of the door.    I was thinking of using something like "Liquid Nails" or that Loctite super-bonder on it.  Too hot out there right now to even think about doing this...

BTW:  It pops up on the Walmart website for $10 bucks + shipping.

 

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

I wonder if it would stick the 3/8" thick rubber/foam sound deadener to the inside of my doors?  Last time I looked in there (years ago, cuz how often do you have your doors apart?) it looked like "tumble-down city" because the 3-M super-duper stuff for upholstery let go of the inside of the door.    I was thinking of using something like "Liquid Nails" or that Loctite super-bonder on it.  Too hot out there right now to even think about doing this...

BTW:  It pops up on the Walmart website for $10 bucks + shipping.

 

Gordon-3M Spray Super 77. Clean the surfaces, spray both sides. Let it set up to "tacky," stick it back on. Should never comes off again. 

That's exactly it. The patience part of the equation, waiting long enough for the glue to get to the perfect state of "tack".

I have the cast aluminum totally aftermarket "Porsche" bolt-on valve covers. They don't have any retaining tabs for gaskets, so you need to glue them on. Contact cement is the way, you just need to wait ten minutes.

I usually set a timer.

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