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I have an external oil filter and typically use the NAPA Gold 1515 spin-on filter (a WIX in disguise).

The filter works great, but for some reason it is a B!+€+ to get to spin off.  I have a stack-up of the basic filter mount at the top, then a MOCAL oil-diverter sandwich, then the spin-on filter on the bottom.  When I try to spin the filter off, it’s like it’s been super-glued to the MOCAL housing.  I need to use a long handled oil filter wrench on it with as much leverage as I can muster.

I use Brad Penn oil and always fill the filter can with oil before I spin it on, and I always smear a light film of oil all around the filter can’s O-ring.  I spin the filter up til it just hits the o-ring, then another 1/2 - 3/4 turn and no more.  

I don’t remember removal being this hard before the MOCAL sandwich housing was installed - It pretty much spun right off.  The base mount is cast and machined aluminium, whilst the MOCAL is machined billet aluminium so I would think that they’re reasonably similar in composition.  (Spellings for Martin’s benefit and after reading the MOCAL website.)

What am I doing wrong?

Last edited by Gordon Nichols
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I had a Fram PH 1 filter on a street rod that wouldn't come off no matter what I did and I ended up crushing it in the process.   Thought about it for a minute and looking at the new replacement filter i now had a plan.  Decided to cut the filter and 3/4" from the top. There are 1/4" holes in a circle on the top of the thicker horizontal portion of the filter, I fabricated a  round 1/4" thick plate with 1/4" stainless bolts and nuts secured to the plate that lined u with four holes on the filter top. Used a breaker bar to go between two of the 1/4" stainless bolts and still had to use a foot long pipe extension over the bar , that finally did the job w/o causing any damage.

Actually, @Theron's response makes the most sense, so I'll try that first.  Thanks!

It hasn't been an issue of not getting the old one off - I have wrenches for that.  It's more about it not being that "glued on" in the first place.  I always thought that smearing the O-ring with oil (new or old) should keep it from sticking later on - guess not.

@ALB - It mounts to the inside of the frame, inboard of the wheel well, with a piece of 3" X 3" Angle stock.  That used to be aluminum but it got torn apart on the last filter replacement so I replaced the aluminum angle with a piece of 3/16" 3" X 3" steel.  THAT should handle it!  Everything - Filter, MOCAL sandwich, fan switch, etc, is inboard of the wheel well for protection.

@barncobob posted:

i have some 16" channel locks that open to 6", fits every filter Iv ever come across

That's ok if there's room- my first Toyota 4x4 truck (an '86) and later the '94 4Runner didn't have nearly enough room for anything like that though (you're reaching up from underneath to the bottom of the engine, through the front suspension), neither does my son's Honda and the filter on my wife's Mazda CX5 isn't all that accessible either.  The filter removal tools that fit over the end that   @dlearl476 talks about are the answer for a lot of cars.  Funny how we're starting to amass quite the collection here as well...

@Sacto Mitch the NAPA Gold is made by WIX, but it can certainly be possible that they have a different material for the O-ring.  Certainly easy to ask for a WIX instead of a NAPA Gold, so I'll try that, too.  At least it sounds like I'm not alone in this.

My filter is easily accessible and I can fit an end-cap filter socket and a 24" breaker bar on it.  That's how I destroyed the aluminum mount last Spring.  Once that was replaced with a steel mount I got the filter off with a bit of grunting.  Just trying to make the whole process a bit closer to "easier".

So I now have a short list of things to try.  Gotta love the spring wake-up tasks.  At least when I checked for mice I didn't find anything (this year)!

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