@GreasySideUp posted:Is that the entire kit or just the discs? This is for a 66. I’m pretty confident the pan is based off of that now. I have no idea if a 7/8” would work — baptism by fire here. I’m learning as quickly as I can!!
@dlearl476 posted:The whole kit minus the custom SS brake lines I had made for my Spyder.
I realized last night your need to get new bearings, too. They changed in 66 (?) and mine are the later bearings.
The spindle size is different as well, isn't it? I'd check that out.
I know for fact that the early ball-joint spindles use a smaller tie-rod end than the later ones.
Yes. It’s the spindle size that’s different: different ID on the bearings. The OD is the same.
@DannyP posted:Carter rotary self-regulated is my recommendation. IF you have Webers, that's fine as that pump puts out 3 to 3.5 psi. Like I said before, if you use Solex carbs 1.5 psi is the limit(and you'll need an adjustable regulator and pressure gauge to set it).
4.0 psi is too much for any of the float valves in the carbs we use.
Dave is selling his brakes because there is no easy way to narrow a beam in a Spyder, it's welded to the frame. Worse case scenario, but a 2" narrowed beam bolts to your pan and the brakes will fit under the fenders just fine. You will need to shorten the tie-rods an inch each though.
Looks like Carter had quite a few models. Anyone in particular for the VW?
I used P60504, but it appears it is not available anywhere at the moment. It is self-regulated to 3 to 3.5 psi, which is spot-on for Webers or Dellortos.
The P90091 says 2-4 psi, and is readily available. BUT if you have Solexes/Kadrons, you'll really need a regulator to cut it down to 1.5 psi so the float valves don't get overwhelmed.
I found the pump at Summit, Amazon, Jeg's, Rockauto...take your pick.
@DannyP posted:I used P60504, but it appears it is not available anywhere at the moment. It is self-regulated to 3 to 3.5 psi, which is spot-on for Webers or Dellortos.
The P90091 says 2-4 psi, and is readily available. BUT if you have Solexes/Kadrons, you'll really need a regulator to cut it down to 1.5 psi so the float valves don't get overwhelmed.
I found the pump at Summit, Amazon, Jeg's, Rockauto...take your pick.
The Carter is on the way. I’m expecting big things!
My JBugs stuff hasn’t shipped yet…. Grrrrr.
@GreasySideUp posted:My JBugs stuff hasn’t shipped yet…. Grrrrr.
Yeah, I do not know what’s up with them. Being in Utah, I usually get my stuff in 2-3 days. I just ordered some rear drums from them and it took two weeks.
@GreasySideUp posted:The Carter is on the way. I’m expecting big things!
My JBugs stuff hasn’t shipped yet…. Grrrrr.
You can expect all you want. That doesn't mean all is good if you replace a part. You cannot trust ANYTHING new. When you get your "new" carbs, take them completely apart and clean them. They will be filthy inside, as all new carbs are. Don't skip this step. If you do, you'll have problems.
The only parts I've ever bolted straight on are made by JayCee. No cleaning, no modifying, just use them. Every other part has required futzing with.
EMPI 34 EPC are copies of Weber ICT carbs. I have no knowledge of their quality or lack thereof. As I said before, you probably don't need to replace them. If they're actual Weber ICTs, save and rebuild them.
As of late, most every mechanical part I have purchased for a speedster or dune buggy build needs to be carefully inspected, sometimes bench tested and always checked for fitment because the majority of the parts are near junk out of the box.
I've ordered a LOT of parts this year. With few exceptions, if it comes from California, be prepared to wait. They are certainly not in a hurry out there.
I'll give you one example: I called and checked stock on the phone on a Monday at Scat. I assumed the item would ship Tuesday or worst case Wednesday. It didn't ship until Friday, and arrived the following Wednesday. It's a one-week minimum from Cali, usually ten days to two weeks unfortunately.
And Scat is not the worst offender out there. They are simply not in a hurry. So when you order from California, you need to also have a lot of patience.
CB, Jbugs, Latest Rage, etc... all do the same.
CB has order delays ESPECIALLY on custom stuff that needs machine shop time: balancing, head flycutting, CNC port matching. Cams, heads, cranks, all take extra time.
If you are in the middle of a project, and need another part, just order and walk away for two weeks and do something else. Hopefully your project is sitting somewhere that it isn't in the way.
My rocker shafts and associated parts came in the usual 2-3 days, but they’re off the shelf parts. I ordered them the same day I ordered my drums from JBugs.
Kind of surprised me because they have a big Covid delay banner on their website. I’m with you on the “order and wait” part. I ordered some hardware from Belmetric in NH and it took 5 days. I wished I’d have remembered to order it when I ordered the shafts.
Except @dlearl476 you're a lot closer. About 2000 miles closer. If you're going west coast to east coast, it's a week at least.
Well, the wait just saved me a ton of money. My buddy Matt came over this morning and we started with the very basics and threw out the assumptions that this thing was running when it was parked.
It helps immensely when the distributer cap is on the correct way and the plugs are firing in the correct order….
She fired right up.
It looks like I can’t attach a video here… bummer. She sounds great!
Good for you. Your getting an education on Air-cooled engines and older tech, get your manual and your note book started 
... Good luck and enjoy the ride.
@GreasySideUp posted:Well, the wait just saved me a ton of money. My buddy Matt came over this morning and we started with the very basics and threw out the assumptions that this thing was running when it was parked.
It helps immensely when the distributer cap is on the correct way and the plugs are firing in the correct order….
She fired right up.
It looks like I can’t attach a video here… bummer. She sounds great!
You have to post your videos to Vimeo or Youtube then embed them here or post a link.
She runs… but she is rough. We got the brakes freed up and bled, tightened a few loose ends like the gas tank and went for a spin.
At idle, she is great. Starts right up. Driving though, lots of popping and lugging and she is a dog.
I pulled one plug and she’s pretty sooty. I’m going to pull all the plugs tomorrow and see what I have. I think a carb rebuild is back on the plate as well.
I found a Holley fuel pump under there that works but is not hooked up. Right now she is running off the mechanical pump. Strange.
The drums are in great shape and the internals look great as well. I’ll need to contemplate the disc conversion.
The CV boot was leaking on the lift. I hear that is common but they are completely brittle so I have 2 more on the way.
What a fun little car though! She handles great at 30!
I also spent more than a few minutes talking to some engine builders today…. Uh oh….
Well you will need to go through all systems before it can be a go, for highway driving. But that needs to be done on any car that has sat that long any way. Plus the madness will get to you, that means you will have to upgrade it bit by bit. It happened to most of us, scratch that, all of us. We filled our invoices in the hidden file, or the circular file to hide it from he who must be obeyed. )
IMHO and my experiences, once you have it running to the point to be able to diagnose the engine, trans and short drive it a bit, I would tear it down and redo most of the mechanicals and electricals for a winter project and piece of mind as well as your safety. There's really no short cuts as they turn into financial issues, headaches and major frustrations and a "I told you so" from the kitchen area...
"I also spent more than a few minutes talking to some engine builders today…. Uh oh…."
Yep, it's happened. You have been assimilated. Resistance is futile. Welcome to the Madness!!
@Alan Merklin posted:IMHO and my experiences, once you have it running to the point to be able to diagnose the engine, trans and short drive it a bit, I would tear it down and redo most of the mechanicals and electricals for a winter project and piece of mind as well as your safety. There's really no short cuts as they turn into financial issues, headaches and major frustrations and a "I told you so" from the kitchen area...
Oh, the electrical is a mess…. We can’t figure out why it runs because nothing else works!
I’ve got backlighting on the gauges and tail lights but that is it. No power to the gauges otherwise, headlights, blinkers or tail lights. The mystery continues….
I’ve also got a very loose tie rod end on order. It looks like some of the car started to be sorted but then they gave up. There are a bunch of very new parts but a bunch of loose old ones too….
