Stick with it. You'll get it sorted.
One thing that fails on these cars all the time is grounds. Often, if you find your ground straps, remove, sand them and bolt them back in with a star washer all your lights and accessories will magically start working even despite the wiring looking like an osprey's nest.
Then you add a few more grounds (tail lights, etc.) and can rave on.
@edsnova posted:Stick with it. You'll get it sorted.
One thing that fails on these cars all the time is grounds. Often, if you find your ground straps, remove, sand them and bolt them back in with a star washer all your lights and accessories will magically start working even despite the wiring looking like an osprey's nest.
Then you add a few more grounds (tail lights, etc.) and can rave on.
^^^ What Ed said ^^^
And if you are feeling a bit of future prevention coming on, wipe the connections with dielectric grease before you tighten them. If you are planning a conversion to EFI, grounding becomes even more important because the engine sensors usually reference their signals to ground. In the best case, you end up having all of your engine, dash and power grounds coming in to one point on the engine (star configuration).
Your ECU/EFI signal grounds all get routed separately back to one connection to the ECU. Cable shielding grounds also connect to this ECU signal ground but are left open on the sensor end. It's not complicated when you get the principles, but you end up pulling a lot of ground wires.
Good luck!
Settle down there Mr. Pickett! Leave the man alone, he just got it running. Don't have him building EFI yet...
@DannyP posted:Settle down there Mr. Pickett! Leave the man alone, he just got it running. Don't have him building EFI yet...
Sorry, I was just thinking "while he was making a few improvements." 🙂
You know how it works, to the guy with a hammer, everything looks like a nail.
I had a pro take a look/listen today. He says a valve adjustment should clear most everything up. And a new exhaust. And heads would do wonders as a bonus….
I also spoke to a builder today. He can get me a 2275 in a month if I don’t want to mess with it……🤤🤑
This looks like a great adventure. If you're going for a big engine my opinion is that the optimal displacement size is a 2007 (90.5 mm bore with 78 mm stroke). That combo keeps the most meat on the block for reliability, both on the bores and less clearancing inside for the stroker crank. Something tells me you will be a lifer on this like many of us here are. Congratulations, good luck and we'll be following your build.
We added a modern fuse box today. The headlights now work and I’ve got power to the tach. The RPM’s don’t work and I don’t have front turn signals yet. I’ve got the red lights in the VDO gauge and the turn green arrow signal operating in the RPM gauge but the needle is dead. I’m assuming it runs back to the coil but I haven’t chased any wires yet.
In the headlight bowls there are small bulbs coming from the bottom. I also have orange beehives underneath. Are the beehives running lights and the bulbs the turn signals? I think the bulbs are clear…
The clear bulbs inside the headlight bucket are running lamps, the beehives are turn signals.
The disc brakes came in today. I’ve got carb rebuild kits, electronic ignition, coil, and shift bushings on the way. I got the front seatbelts installed, I want to install one for the rear as well for the rare time my daughter will be back there.
I’ll do a search but had anyone reading this found a good way to mount a shoulder harness? Brand, size and location would be great.
@GreasySideUp posted:I’ll do a search but had anyone reading this found a good way to mount a shoulder harness? Brand, size and location would be great.
You're making great progress! Here's what I did for shoulder harnesses. The key goal is to get the harness support at shoulder height so the belt doesn't damage your neck/shoulder in an accident.
I bought belt assemblies from Greg at Vintage Motorcars and welded up supports that extended from the wheel well area into the space behind the top of the package tray (a small rectangular hole was cut in the top of the wheel well fiberglass).
Welded to the top of the bracket is a flat rectangle of steel curved to follow the shape of the fiberglass at shoulder height at the top of the package tray area. The belt support is attached through the fiberglass and into the curved rectangle.
The belt reels are attached on the front of the package tray behind the seats.
Pictures and more details here:
Finished the valves. The inside looks brand new.
I found a 2276 motor locally. It’s all new and only been broken in on a stand. For the motor guys, what are your thoughts? Under 4K and needs an exhaust. Is this thing a street motor?
The specs sound great, 9.1:1 is a tiny bit low on the compression, but that sounds like a great motor especially at that price. There are a lot of good parts in there.
It's definitely a street motor. It appears to be full-flowed. I wouldn't use those crimped hoses for oil, I'd use AN8 instead. I'd have an external filter, an oil thermostat and external cooler. And those stainless steel breather lines look small. You want at least 1/2" ID.
I don't personally get the magneto, no need for that on the street.
If the deck height is 0.040", the compression should be 9.6:1. I'd re-shim the cylinders to give 0.040" deck. I just built a 2276 with 9.6:1 and 58cc chambers, deck height is 0.045".
@DannyP posted:The specs sound great, 9.1:1 is a tiny bit low on the compression, but that sounds like a great motor especially at that price. There are a lot of good parts in there.
It's definitely a street motor. It appears to be full-flowed. I wouldn't use those crimped hoses for oil, I'd use AN8 instead. I'd have an external filter, an oil thermostat and external cooler. And those stainless steel breather lines look small. You want at least 1/2" ID.
I don't personally get the magneto, no need for that on the street.
If the deck height is 0.040", the compression should be 9.6:1. I'd re-shim the cylinders to give 0.040" deck. I just built a 2276 with 9.6:1 and 58cc chambers, deck height is 0.045".
It’s a stock magnesium case bored out. Is that going to last with that hp? What kind of numbers would this thing make?
more pics.
I'd say a minimum 150 hp, without knowing heads(I don't feel like looking them up). It's probably more like 160-180.
Lose the magneto and the tall stacks. Put shorter stacks and real air filters on it.
I have a 2165cc, AS41 mag case with 78 crank and 94mm barrels. It produces 180hp. I did a top-end rebuild at 45,000 miles. Oil pressure is great and bottom end is good.
The most important thing is that the bottom end is BALANCED to prevent wear. Also, minimize time above 6000rpm. I'd bet the crank is counter-weighted so that lessens wear also.
@DannyP posted:I'd say a minimum 150 hp, without knowing heads(I don't feel like looking them up). It's probably more like 160-180.
Lose the magneto and the tall stacks. Put shorter stacks and real air filters on it.
I have a 2165cc, AS41 mag case with 78 crank and 94mm barrels. It produces 180hp. I did a top-end rebuild at 45,000 miles. Oil pressure is great and bottom end is good.
The most important thing is that the bottom end is BALANCED to prevent wear. Also, minimize time above 6000rpm. I'd bet the crank is counter-weighted so that lessens wear also.
Thanks Danny.
With that much hp do I need to worry about tearing everything else apart? Can the current drive train handle it?
A stock transmission can last a long time IF you never drop the clutch. If you put sticky tires on it and try to launch, you will break it.
I agree with @LI-Rick if its just a stock trans you will tear 1st gear easy if launch it hard. Sounds like a good price. Not sure about the Magneto for the street but I don’t know much about them. Do you know much about the builder ?
I would ask around before you trash-can that Vertex Magneto. Those things were state-of-the-art before the Bosch 009 came along and were really well made. They also put out a helluva lot of voltage, like 60,000+ volts! I say check the shaft for side play and if it's tight, run it. I ran a Kong magneto on my '46 flathead V8 and it was one potent ignition system. Vertex had about the same reputation, but ask on the Samba what people think of them before you decide.
Magneto is a conversation piece, probably. The engine looks like a great find at that price.
