Skip to main content

Assume they are thread in studs and not pressed in? Are threads in rotor still intact and not stripped?  If so use Loctite red threadlock on all the screw in studs.  Let it sit for 24 hours and you'll have to heat them to remove them in the future.   If threads are gone - Probably too big a hole to go to pressed in studs so only safe choice is remove rotor and have holes partially welded up and retapped for a new stud.  You mihgt find oversided base studs - I've seen them for VW stud sizes. I wouldn't try to use any of the thread inserts like helicoil for a wheel stud.

Last edited by WOLFGANG

Is it stripped in the hub or is the stud itself stripped?

If the stud itself is stripped, those are not pressed in studs. There's a socket head on the end of each of them, in which will fit the appropriate sized allen wrench. If it doesn't back right out, you'll need to apply some heat. Lots and lots of VW places sell the studs.

If it's stripped in the hub, you have two choices, both of which involve removing the caliper and then the hub. We can get into that once we know what you're talking about.

If wheel is on like first photo - it will be hard to remove cliper and the center rotor nut to get the rotor assembly off.  If it is open nut vs an acorn closed nut - you can use an allen wrench in the center hole. You'll most likely have to use center punch and drill thru center of alloy nut with increasingly sized titanium drill bits (and oil to prevent over heating).  Ya might be able to expose the allen wrench hole - or keep drilling to larger size.  Have a six pack handy.

Last edited by WOLFGANG

I don't know whether you have pressed in studs (American style) or threaded in studs as I have on my hubs, but it sounds like you have a press-in stud that has become stripped in the hole - that's why it's spinning in either direction but not coming out.  

You're not going to be able to pull the stud out because it is flanged on the inside of the hub.

So, remove the other four nuts, then put the bad nut at the bottom (6 o'clock) position and, while pulling the top (12 o'clock) of the wheel towards you to use as a lever to hold the stud fast against the hub, use an impact wrench to spin the lug nut off.  A bat handle won't do this, it must be an impact wrench (set on "high) and you'll need to apply lots of torque to the wheel as a lever to crimp the stud fast against the hub to hold it.

The only other alternative I can think of is to remove the center cap from the wheel and you should be able to get some needle-nose pliers in there to remove the cotter pin from the hub nut, then use a 36mm socket on an impact wrench (with e-brake applied hard) to remove the hub.  You'll need to remove the caliper or caliper mount (with caliper attached ) to allow the hub to be removed with the wheel still attached. Then use an angle grinder to gently remove the stud head enough to let the stud pull through the hub flange.  You may be able to get some heavy duty vice grips on the stud flange to hold it so an impact wrench can remove the nut, but that's a long shot.

Well, if it is a screwed in stud and the stud is stripped, then using the same leverage technique should pull the exposed inner end of the stud (which I assume still has threads on the exposed 1/4" of stud and holding it in) into the stripped hole and the impact driver should either spin it out or proceed to strip the remaining threads off of the end of the stud.  Either way, it should come out with enough leverage or impact torque, right?

Or maybe the wheel will get loose enough to allow the nut to spin off of the stud (while holding the wheel as a lever against the hub).

That's all I've got.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

If I've got your story right, you have a stripped out rotor stud hole. Oversized studs are available in Ottawa at your local VW dealer. I had a stripped out situation in my Speedster brake drums and had to buy a very nice tap from an outfit in Kanata recommended quietly by and not available from the tool and equipment joint in Bells Corners. I'll let you use my tap for a six pack and a good dirty joke.   I think your cure is right here in Ottawa. I redid about four of twenty on the brake drums of my Speedster. 

I should introduce you sometime to Ken Baird at Main Street Auto in North Gower. He's a very versatile fellow, works for a very fair rate and has many contacts in various import specialty applications in the area.  

Last edited by David Stroud IM Roadster D
IaM-Ray posted:

I will check out Myers I think they are the only VW dealer parts dept open on Saturdays as of June.  

But I think Alan's idea makes the process more precise as you could be off by tapping the hole and it may or may not affect the wheel balance.  Just saying... 

Myers Kanata VW knows my Speedster. They'd love to see your car. Make sure Nancy comes out to see it. Keep your shades on.  Drill and tap will be concentric not affecting balance. Not sure if welding, then drill and tap would not cause more imbalance. Certainly more $$$. 

IaM-Ray posted:
Alan Merklin posted:

Which method?

Well I lifted the car on my quick jack 

What model quick jack do you have? Would you recommend it?

after loosening the nuts then stud at 6pm and all others off and with weight off pull by hand on inner wheel  spoke and spin with battery impact and off it came

no damage to anything and especially the fuch

What model quick jack do you have? Would you recommend it?

Glad you are on moving in a positive direction - sorry you are having the issue.

Nice Fuchs. I'm running Fuchs too. Sometimes I wonder about changing 'shoes'. I have a set of 5.5 x 15 Flat Fuchs (on my 912) and a set of steelies, all OEM 5x130's bolt pattern. Love the stepped 16" Fuchs.

Glad you removed it, Ray.  I also think that the oversized stud approach is the best way to go, too.  Helluva lot cheaper than a whole new hub for want of just a bigger bolt.  You'll need to remove the hub to get the hole sized and tap straight, but that's no biggie for you.  You might want to decide whether to do the other four holes in that hub so they'll be the same in the future, but you and Dave can decide what's best there.

Plus you get to visit with Dave and BS about cars!  

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

New rotor, places that stock them are few and far between eBay has then for $64 bucks but probably are Chinese crap. NAPA might be able to get you a decent rotor though.  Adding to the cost is a  new wheel bearing and race, the right way to do things. With that in mind that's why I suggested calling couple machine shops if would take under an hour to do the job and have it back on the car same day.  Both shops that I use  would do it on bartering terms for a $24 case of Coors Light

Last edited by Alan Merklin

Understood.

Just keeping in mind that he's got "multi-drilled" EMPI rotors (both early-VW 4 and late-Porsche 5), and everybody else is using the same rotors, just drilled for 4-lug.

NAPA will only have the 4-lug drilling, and the stuff on eBay is the same stuff CIP1 (and everybody else) is selling. What he's got is the same EMPI stuff, so welding/tapping it will give him repaired Chinese EMPI rotors. Most of us can't (or won't) walk into a place looking to barter beer for machine work. In my part of the world-- it'd take a week and cost $150, assuming one could even find a shop to do it.

ZFNHSN posted:
IaM-Ray posted:
Alan Merklin posted:

Which method?

Well I lifted the car on my quick jack 

What model quick jack do you have? Would you recommend it?

after loosening the nuts then stud at 6pm and all others off and with weight off pull by hand on inner wheel  spoke and spin with battery impact and off it came

no damage to anything and especially the fuch

What model quick jack do you have? Would you recommend it?

Glad you are on moving in a positive direction - sorry you are having the issue.

Nice Fuchs. I'm running Fuchs too. Sometimes I wonder about changing 'shoes'. I have a set of 5.5 x 15 Flat Fuchs (on my 912) and a set of steelies, all OEM 5x130's bolt pattern. Love the stepped 16" Fuchs.

Thanks I love the quick jack original 3500lb unit it fits exactly at the right spots 

The only issue is that the Jack must fit the jacking points so it will not work with my 2019 Jetta

 I’m thinking of having an extension made that will fit into the jack holes. quick Jack sells them for other units I would have to make my own to fit in and be lock-in and be removable

But they work really well for my roadster the car is up in two minutes

 

Add Reply

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×