Skip to main content

DannyP posted:

Obviously, red loctite was used on Ray's car to enhance the "special" lock?

Personally, I would replace the nut and stub axle. That arrangement was hokey to say the least . Could even go with "Cob Job".

I completely missed what was going on in that picture until @DannyP's comment. YIKES!

I see now that the stub axle and nut were cut down, probably to clear the cap on the Fuchs. I'm OK(ish) with that, but not with the (zip-tie!) set-up to hold the cut up key in the slot in the stub axle (which used to be the hole).

A new stub axle and nut will just push the set-up back into the cap, so I can't really recommend that either.

I think I'd work on some sort of arrangement with something hardened and heavy (a cut-down 8d nail?) spanning the slot, but with something much nicer than a black zip-tie holding it in. What was there worked fine, but WOW. As my son says in similar situations, "somewhere in this process, there were banjos playing"

I would normally think, "what the heck?" with the Lock-Tite. I can't imagine putting it back together without, given the circumstances. 

Well, it last 4 years I guess it can last longer but I will keep checking it. 

Let's just say that I noted the location and the amount of fillets left and I got her back in there with the loctite etc etc.  It is torqued at the same torque that it took to get her off .. body feel ... I will investigate new stub axels Danny and I wonder if anyone has the same set up on their IM @Marty Grzynkowicz @Tom Boney

FYI, to the best of my knowledge 356's have a torque number of 400ft/lbs so it can't blow up IMO. 

Here is the bar set up for tightening and removal using 3/4 inch breaker bar.  I think the TOrque Meister might be worth investigating @Michael McKelvey but I still would need to add an adapter for the 5 x130 set up so the amount of times I think this will need to be done will be minimal and hopefully it can be better planned in the future.  

 

 

length of bar

Attachments

Images (1)
  • length of bar

I don't know about you guys, but I always do the final tighten or original breaking loose with the wheels on, on the ground. I put it in first, set the emergency brake, and use a simple wooden wheel chock.

Nothing special needed, other than an extension for the breaker bar. I do realize that this probably wouldn't work if you have a Fuch in the way, but if you have a steel spare, it could work easier. I'm lucky I have wide 5.

With the bar length and the 3/4 inch socket drive, it went fairly well I think, of course  having never done it I was a bit unsure what to expect. 

I think I could do it again in a lot less time and I would rent those tools.  Now I thought of getting a TMeister but I would have to make a modification to allow the unit to be used on a 5 x130 bolt circle.  Someone on YTube did it. 5x130

 

Well I am reincarnating this post, as I decided after some thought to try to solve a wheel balancing issue by have some axles/hub spacers made to lock the rear wheels via a hubcentric Ring.  

I found a machinist in Alberta who has a long history of doing type I to 944 brake swaps and I managed to get a Stub Axle from Empi 16-2307  this will allow me to first off to reduce the length of the axle and remove the spacer which was covering the splines.  The guys name is Lanner Khan fyi.  It seems he has done a lot of VW upgrades to 944, 911 or whatever you can think of.  He is quite knowledgeable and was features on a podcast from the USA on VW custom mods. 

@Gordon Nichols  One goal as will is to allow me to remove the tractor end piece that was on to lock the axle and return to a good old Cotter Pin, Split pin whatever we want to call it.   I might feel somewhat more comfortable, say reassured with this going forward. 

After we are all set up I might have my wheel caps modified if I need to. 

Attachments

Images (1)
  • mceclip0
Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×