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My CMC has "factory" roll ups. It has a fairly large hunk of rubber thingie to close the hole between the w'shield and window. Sort of retractable side curtains. Crude but it works. Got a window assy for an MGB that I think I can retrofit to the Spdztr - just as soon as I can get the right mind set. Hopefully they will go up and down w/less fiddling. Will take some judicious whacking.
I've only seen one JPS Speedster with roll up windows and it had chrome plated spacers between the windshield posts and door glass. Didn't look good (very Rube Goldberg) and also didn't appear to work very well.

There are several options for Speedster side curtains that offer better ventilation, weather protection, and visibility.
I saw a pic of some ridgid side windows, probably plexiglas, fitted with the two chrome pins. was thinking of making some as they seem like they would work pretty good. they were all transparent also so better visibility. think they were on the English Speedster sight. I will post if I find them.

also, I need the recepticles for the window pins as mine has never been fitted. anyone know who might sell them?

JR Bowyer
I make my own 'Lexan' side curtains that use chrome posts ( CMC now Street Beast)and an available 1 -1/4" flat rubber edging from good 'ole JC "Whipme" The cost to make is about $70.00

It is an easy process to build. Make a cardboard template of the entire opening ( each side may have a slight height difference due to the ytop not being exact.) then "deduct" 1" all around for the width of the rubber edging, take your time cutting the 'Lexan" by scoring it and snapping it at the score lines. Cut the rubber edging to fit , at the ends that butt to each other a couple of drops of super glue and also along the inside groove of the rubber edging and do the trick. Have a helper inside the Speedster hold and mark the "Lexan'to post placement , drill and mount posts with nyloc nuts ....a decent and better fit than what is available .
One problem with Lexan is it scratches very easily, and goes kind of 'milky' over time. Instead use a Lexan variant called "Marguard". Specifically look for MR-10 Marguard. It has a silicone coating on both sides that eleminates the scratching problem, and also stays clear longer. A side benefit is that any sealant you might use will stick better to the Marguard than to plain Lexan. My company builds submarines and we have been using Marguard for windows for years. Also, for nice cut edges, you might try a plywood blade on a skill saw or table saw. Don't take the protective plastic off until all your cutting is done.
Alan, Marguard is lexan, but with a protective silicone coating. It has the same working properties as lexan, except it won't scratch. As lexan, it will not break, but can craze. It is a GE product.

Plexiglass is acrylic, and is very strong and hard, but yes, it will break. Lexan is a Polycarbonite and won't break. It can be bent easily, and will hold its shape. We use it to make brackets out of. You have to be careful bending it as it can tear along a cut or scratch however. Polycarbonite is what is used for bullet proof glass. Years ago when we started making subs, we put a piece in and took a pick-axe to it. All of us took turns trying to break it. Never did break, but we did manage to dent it.
Ron

(Message Edited 7/22/2003 1:14:01 AM)
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