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Unless someone put a fuel line shut-off or drain line between your gas tank and fuel filter, it may be difficult to drain the tank and/or carbs.  I have a similar situation on my Speedster so I just fill the tank with treated gas at the gas station and drive it home to leave it all winter with a full tank (I’ve always heard that a full tank of gas won’t cause rust in the tank as a partially filled tank would).

 I’ve always seafoamed my boat motors and never had a problem whether inboard or outboard.

On the Speedster and my outdoor power tools, I used to use Sta-Bil Blue (Marine) and never had a problem with that, either.  In fact, I still have a bunch of the Blue stuff kicking around and still use it in my mowers and stuff.  Whenever I get gas I automatically add it any time during the year.

The last couple of years, I’ve been using Star-tron enzyme treatment in the Speedster and been having good luck with that, too.  Again, I use it year-round.  

I still like to hit everything (all three cars, lawn mowers, leaf blower, etc.) with a 2X - 4X treatment of Seafoam at least once a year or certainly if something starts to run funny, and that just seems to keep things happy.  It does a great job of cleaning both carb jets and fuel injectors, too.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Seafoam and/or stabil in Bridget and the mowers. The key here is to make sure you put the stuff in, then put some gas in to mix it up, and then run the engine long enough so the treated stuff gets to the carbs (or in my case injectors). With carbs not liking alcohol you want the Stabil-ized gas to be on them.

Like Gordon said, full tank is better than empty or half. The gas will keep condensation from forming and that will prevent rust and forestall the alcohol fallout from the gas.

With the increasing amount of ethanol in today’s gas we treat the fuel before we park the vehicle. Therefore the treated fuel is in the fuel bowls when stored. We use amsoil fuel stabilizer. The stabil just doesn’t work as good as it has in the past.   Then again being on the west coast we do fine a day here and there to take the car out for that adrenaline rush!😎

Seafoam has worked great for me in winters past... though I do drive the car off and on all fall/winter... only staying in the garage during Medium/heavy rain days and when I’m in Europe,   I do travel for a living... and I’m on the read +2 weeks per month.

it has been a particularly dry fall in Seattle this year... tough sunny and cold!  Perfect mid 40sF and blue skies these past 5-6 days... and driving the car every day ;-) 

Fortunately being on Gulf Coast of FL, non-ethanol gas is available at a premium of maybe 60 cents per gallon.  I don't know of many boat owners who are willing to risk ethanol in their gas.  If you can get non-ethanol, its worth the extra - you also get better fuel economy and all that ethanol corn you would have used can go to whiskey making (where it belongs). Ethanol gas breaks down in as little as 30 days!

https://axleaddict.com/misc/Pr...ns-of-Ethanol-in-Gas

I add Stabil, then fill the tank, which mixes it nicely. Then I run it for at least 15 minutes.

Fortunately, non-ethanol 91 octane is available less than a mile from my house. This is what I do my winter fill with, but most of the year I run 93 octane Sunoco Ultra w/10% ethanol.

This routine has been working for me completely trouble-free for 13 years.

DannyP posted:

I add Stabil, then fill the tank, which mixes it nicely. Then I run it for at least 15 minutes.

Fortunately, non-ethanol 91 octane is available less than a mile from my house. This is what I do my winter fill with, but most of the year I run 93 octane Sunoco Ultra w/10% ethanol.

This routine has been working for me completely trouble-free for 13 years.

Do you notice the jetting change much when switching from 1 to the other?

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