1800cc carb choices / want to get rid of empi carbs.

Single carb would work on that displacement but needs to be jetted properly. Re the alternator; it doesn't need to output 14 volts; can be over 13 and it should be fine. Did it get tested?

@Impala posted:

Single carb would work on that displacement but needs to be jetted properly. Re the alternator; it doesn't need to output 14 volts; can be over 13 and it should be fine. Did it get tested?

The alternator was not charging the battery sufficiently, I got stranded a few times had to bump start it.

What carb would you recommend? And how can I figure out which jets I'll need?

I was looking for a conversion kit with the dual port intake and carb however I couldn't find what I was looking for.

A properly regulated alternator in a 12v system will typically put out 13.6v. If you have that and the car won’t turn over, it’s likely another issue (weak battery or bad cables).

You can’t find a kit to go from duals to a single PICT carb because most people go the other way (from a single to duals, not vise-versa).

Whatever center-mount carb you get will need a heated manifold, which requires your exhaust to have that provision. There is something called the latent heat of evaporation which drops intake temperatures greatly when the fuel atomizes in the carb. That temperature drop is enough to cause the fuel in the mixture to precipitate and pool in the intake runners.

What I’m trying to say is that what you want to do can be done, but you’ll need ALL the parts for things to go as you hope they will.

A VW-Mexico EFI setup controlled by MS is what I’d do. Mario Velotta at thedubshop.com is who I’d call.

@Stan Galat posted:

A properly regulated alternator in a 12v system will typically put out 13.6v. If you have that and the car won’t turn over, it’s likely another issue (weak battery or bad cables).

You can’t find a kit to go from duals to a single PICT carb because most people go the other way (from a single to duals, not vise-versa).

Whatever center-mount carb you get will need a heated manifold, which requires your exhaust to have that provision. There is something called the latent heat of evaporation which drops intake temperatures greatly when the fuel atomizes in the carb. That temperature drop is enough to cause the fuel in the mixture to precipitate and pool in the intake runners.

What I’m trying to say is that what you want to do can be done, but you’ll need ALL the parts for things to go as you hope they will.

A VW-Mexico EFI setup controlled by MS is what I’d do. Mario Velotta at thedubshop.com is who I’d call.

Thanks Stan, In your opinion do you think I could get a reliable setup using dual Solex carbs? I'm not seeking max power, I want the best reliability possible for my renters. I guess I shouldn't be afraid of syncing carbs as it seems like its not a big deal, I just don't want to rely on Chinese knockoffs.

Does this kit include everything I would need?

https://www.jbugs.com/product/43-4400.html

Are you trying to use twin single barrel carbs or twin 2 barrel Solex carbs like on a 356 Porsche ?

Used Solex carbs have a problem with worn out throttle shafts which screw up the idle ,  you can get them rebuilt with new shaft bushings but $$$$$

I think you'd be happier with this:

https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6428.htm

... but that's just my opinion. ICTs are genuine Weber and pretty bulletproof and the hex-bar linkage is a lot nicer than the EMPI push/pull on a Kadron kit. The performance is limited by the 34 mm carb size, but it'd still be better than a single by a good long way.

The ICTs almost never go out of sync.

@imperial posted:

Are you trying to use twin single barrel carbs or twin 2 barrel Solex carbs like on a 356 Porsche ?

Used Solex carbs have a problem with worn out throttle shafts which screw up the idle ,  you can get them rebuilt with new shaft bushings but $$$$$

He's talking about Kadrons. Lots and lots of people are referring to them as Solex/Brosal duals now days.

The dual ICTs and the dual Kadrons are good alternatives but they need to be tweaked. Probably not the end of the world but you will need to work on them.

@Stan Galat posted:

I think you'd be happier with this:

https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6428.htm

... but that's just my opinion. ICTs are genuine Weber and pretty bulletproof and the hex-bar linkage is a lot nicer than the EMPI push/pull on a Kadron kit. The performance is limited by the 34 mm carb size, but it'd still be better than a single by a good long way.

The ICTs almost never go out of sync.

I'm curious, the website says not compatible with dual cannon or tri-mill exhaust systems, here's a photo of mine. Do I have either of these exhaust systems or am I in the clear? Id like to order this kit to get running ASAP!

I assume I should also order the jet kit and maybe a carb flow meter

Also attached is a photo of the current throttle cable

@Stan Galat posted:

I think you'd be happier with this:

https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6428.htm

... but that's just my opinion. ICTs are genuine Weber and pretty bulletproof and the hex-bar linkage is a lot nicer than the EMPI push/pull on a Kadron kit. The performance is limited by the 34 mm carb size, but it'd still be better than a single by a good long way.

The ICTs almost never go out of sync.

You do not have a dual cannon or Tri-Mil exhaust system. You've got what looks to be a Vintage Speed setup. You'll be fine.

Even the throttle cable looks like it would work, although you may want to order and extra or two just to have on hand. Get a sync meter as well.

https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6537.htm

.

I'm guessing that most of the problems won't be with 'unreliable' carbs, but with drivers who have never driven carburetted cars. A five-minute briefing before the rental goes out could head off later issues.

By 1960 or so, most cars had automatic chokes that eased cold- and hot-start problems, but none of the carbs we're discussing here have those.

And most ancient drivers expected to have to pump or avoid pumping before a start, depending on whether the car had just been run or not. Or if it had been raining. Or if...

And here's another data point. I remember renting a Nissan Stanza on Maui back in the '80s. Drove great first day. Wouldn't start at all the next morning. The car still had a distributor. Service guy popped the cap and wiped out condensation that had formed overnight. Vroom-vroom. Apparently, the high humidity and wide night/day temperature swings made that a common thing. Go know.

There are more than one reason everything's EFI today.

.

@Stan Galat posted:

You do not have a dual cannon or Tri-Mil exhaust system. You've got what looks to be a Vintage Speed setup. You'll be fine.

Even the throttle cable looks like it would work, although you may want to order and extra or two just to have on hand. Get a sync meter as well.

https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6537.htm

Ordered! Thanks Stan!! Excited to get some real carbs on this baby! I ordered the jet kit too
https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/701-ict.htm

@Sacto Mitch posted:

I remember renting a Nissan Stanza on Maui back in the '80s. Drove great first day. Wouldn't start at all the next morning. The car still had a distributor. Service guy popped the cap and wiped out condensation that had formed overnight. Vroom-vroom. Apparently, the high humidity and wide night/day temperature swings made that a common thing. Go know.

There are more than one reason everything's EFI today.

In 1986, I was a 22 year old newly minted apprentice pipefitter, married with a 2 y/o daughter. We lived on the 2nd floor of a 2-up/-down fourplex. My work truck was a 1978 E150, in all its straight-6, carburated, conventional distributor glory.

Every night, I’d watch the weather to determine what time I’d need to get up. If there was rain or snow or fog or mist in the forecast, I’d get up 45 minutes early, go out to the truck, pop the distributor cap, spray WD40 on the inside of the cap, and let everything drain while I removed the air-cleaner top. I’d open the choke with a screwdriver, pop the cap back on, get a can of ether ready, open the driver’s door of the truck, and make sure my path was clear of obstacles.

I’d spray the ether down the carb throat, pull the screwdriver, and RUN to the ignition, floor the accelerator, and crank it over. If it caught in 2 seconds or less, I was good— even if it choked out.

If not, it was gonna be a long morning.

My daughter used to stand on the couch and look out the window to watch the circus. She used to say, “daddy’s fighting his truck again”

… and so I was.

I must've had a charmed life.  I've never had much in the way of starting issues with carbs, even on the Speedster in winter with no choke.  Of course winters here in the south (particularly Charleston) aren't in the same league as what Stan and others have had to deal with.

You told us you wanted to sell the red Speedster and have a Subaru coupe built because you hated dealing with the carbs, Lane.

Rose colored glasses and all that…

Starting was never an issue.  Keeping them synced and clean was.