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To make a long story short.  My clutch pedal broke in December where the pedal connects to the clutch mc.  So I decided to pull the engine out (1915cc) and I installed another engine (2332cc).  Got all the lines connected and it fires right up with no leaks.  The ISSUE, i rewelded the pin and tab for the clutch pedal during that time.  But when i started the car the clutch pedal has zero pressure with the car engine off and on.  I removed the clutch mc and want to replace it.  I am looking at a wilwood clutch mc and clave cylinder.

Are these the correct parts to get?  Any advice on anything would be appreciated.

Thank you

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On a Spyder, I'd go with a 5/8" master cylinder, despite what Summit recommends.

Due to the length of the clutch arm/throwout lever, and length of the clutch pedal and corresponding pedal ratio where you fixed the pin, this is so. I've built two Spyders, and just converted my FV from Morse cable to hydraulic.

Summit recommends a 3/4" master because most big 'Murican V8 guys have hanging pedals, which are longer and have more leverage. I'm thinking that good ole boys are the typical customer, rather than our fiddly little fancy-pants machines.

Is the clutch the same on both engines? There are early/late on both trans(throwout bearing) and engine? Both have to be early OR late for it to work properly.

Any chance you have a late model guide sleeve not he transaxle and an early model pressure plate with the centering ring?  If so, the sleeve compresses the centering ring and holds the pressure plate disengaged and you'll never have a pedal, ever.

Otherwise the only other possibilities are master, slave, bad pressure plate, stuck throw out bearing.

Danny is correct on size, you want 5/8".  While I have seen some masters fail, it is much more common for the slave to fail.  Usually they either blow the seal and stop working completely, or they crack the seal, which allows fluid past and pressure equalizes on both sides of the piston, either of those give you a dead pedal.

@chines1 @DannyP Thank you for the input.   I don't know what I have exactly, but I just took a pic of the 1915cc engine that came out of the spyder (below) and I have a pic of the trans that was holding the 2332 engine.  I plan to connect the 1915cc engine to this trans.  Would these 2 work together?  If so, then what is in the spyder now should work.  Am i making sense?


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Yup, there is your issue.  Your trans has the guide sleeve around the input shaft and requires a late model pressure plate without the centering ring.  You may be able to remove the centering ring from the center of your pressure plate (if removable) or you can just change to a late model pressure plate.  Inspect the guide sleeve on the transaxle when you remove it, usually when you mismatch the two it damages this sleeve and it needs replaced.

Ok, let me get this straight:

The 1915cc engine is the pic you posted above, sitting on that light blue bar?

That is an early clutch, which takes the early throwout bearing.

The pic of the trans shows a LATE throwout bearing with sleeve.

Watch this video:

Also, if that trans your pic shows was in a REAR engine car, the ring gear needs to be flipped for your MID-ENGINE Spyder. You don't want 1 forward gear and 4 reverse...

Last edited by DannyP

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