clutch issues

On a Spyder, I'd go with a 5/8" master cylinder, despite what Summit recommends.

Due to the length of the clutch arm/throwout lever, and length of the clutch pedal and corresponding pedal ratio where you fixed the pin, this is so. I've built two Spyders, and just converted my FV from Morse cable to hydraulic.

Summit recommends a 3/4" master because most big 'Murican V8 guys have hanging pedals, which are longer and have more leverage. I'm thinking that good ole boys are the typical customer, rather than our fiddly little fancy-pants machines.

Is the clutch the same on both engines? There are early/late on both trans(throwout bearing) and engine? Both have to be early OR late for it to work properly.

@DannyP I didn't check the clutch to be honest. But the throw out bearings were the same.  I am hoping since my clutch pedal pin broke it did something to the mc.  I don't want to take the engine out again.  I don't know what else can cause zero resistance.  

Any chance you have a late model guide sleeve not he transaxle and an early model pressure plate with the centering ring?  If so, the sleeve compresses the centering ring and holds the pressure plate disengaged and you'll never have a pedal, ever.

Otherwise the only other possibilities are master, slave, bad pressure plate, stuck throw out bearing.

Danny is correct on size, you want 5/8".  While I have seen some masters fail, it is much more common for the slave to fail.  Usually they either blow the seal and stop working completely, or they crack the seal, which allows fluid past and pressure equalizes on both sides of the piston, either of those give you a dead pedal.

@chines1 @DannyP Thank you for the input.   I don't know what I have exactly, but I just took a pic of the 1915cc engine that came out of the spyder (below) and I have a pic of the trans that was holding the 2332 engine.  I plan to connect the 1915cc engine to this trans.  Would these 2 work together?  If so, then what is in the spyder now should work.  Am i making sense?

That's an early clutch in the picture.  That transmission is a late style, with the centering collar.

They can work together if you remove the collar from the early pressure plate.

Thanks @LI-Rick I guess it's all coming out.  I am always learning.  I appreciate all the help from everyone.  

Yup, there is your issue.  Your trans has the guide sleeve around the input shaft and requires a late model pressure plate without the centering ring.  You may be able to remove the centering ring from the center of your pressure plate (if removable) or you can just change to a late model pressure plate.  Inspect the guide sleeve on the transaxle when you remove it, usually when you mismatch the two it damages this sleeve and it needs replaced.

Ok, let me get this straight:

The 1915cc engine is the pic you posted above, sitting on that light blue bar?

That is an early clutch, which takes the early throwout bearing.

The pic of the trans shows a LATE throwout bearing with sleeve.

Watch this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nt6waNWKB-0

Also, if that trans your pic shows was in a REAR engine car, the ring gear needs to be flipped for your MID-ENGINE Spyder. You don't want 1 forward gear and 4 reverse...

@DannyP Yes the 1915 is the one that came out the spyder and sitting on the blue dolly.  The trans picture is the one in the dune buggy.  I will most likely keep it in the buggy.

Thats a great video.  I wish i saw it earlier.