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To be honest, unless someone has a pair they didn't use for some reason, those will be very scarce.  I would be more than happy to provide you with dimensions so you could make a pair out of Polyurethane.  

If what you want to do is make what you already have longer and you have some decent shop skills, you could use the bolsters you have to make an RTV mold the length you need, cut the old ones somewhere towards the middle and fill in the gap with something like PT Flex 85 Polyurethane.  This stuff sticks to just about anything and is medium hard, similar to the original rubber stuff they're made of.  If the ends are good on what you have, then make two pairs of molds of the original length, then use those to make a final, single mold the length you need and there you go.

As I said, PT Flex 85 it towards the hard end of the polyurethane spectrum (roughly 25 - 90), similar to hard rubber, so you can staple the vinyl cover to it.  Lower numbers mean softer final product.

Take a look and see what you think.

@LeadPedal posted:

You would have to get high density foam tube and cut it in half and shape it. However, original Speedsters did not have padding as  prominent as speedster replicas, in fact it looked a lot flatter like these original speedster photos. I believe it was heavy carpet padding material under the leather. IMG_1810IMG_1808IMG_1809

The original speedster used a vinyl/leather covered aluminum piece, which is why it looks flatter, Intermeccanica or CMC uses a semi-round rubber piece.



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The rubber half-moon dash trim on CMCs and IMs, while not "correct" looks better than the original option, at least to my eye. Here's why:

Almost nobody uses the aluminum pieces in James pictures - they're compound bent (there's a return bend on the edge of a curved piece, which if you know anything about metal is extremely hard to pull off). Even with the pieces (and the cars in the pictures Leadpedal put up almost certainly have them), I've never seen a "correct" padded dash-trim that didn't wander along the edge to some extent.

The edge of the half-moon trim is sharp and defined, the edge of the correct trim is almost never uniformly stretched over the padding, etc., and the line ends up drifting a bit in relation to the rest of the dash. It's the only place an original car looks homemade (in the worst sense of the word).

Leadpedal's pictures are by far the best examples of original dash-trim I've ever seen, and if you look at any of them long enough you can see what I'm saying - I've never seen that trim in any replica (no matter who built it) where it wasn't worse than the pictures. John Steele tried to pull it off on my 2002 JPS and it looked so bad that I asked him to remove it. The half-moon trim is much more easily trimmed and looks more nicely finished, even if it isn't correct.

Your mileage may vary.

Last edited by Stan Galat

I made the defroster vents functional on my CMC - I used either VW bug or Toyota PU ducts (??) to mold new fiberglass ducts to direct air to the windshield.  Lived in Norther VA so heat/defrost seemed a necessity.  I got the aluminum vents from Klasse356 or Stoddards for like $23.  CMC supplied a crappy rubber grommet that you deformed to be oval as their defroster vents.

defrost ventvent 1vent 2


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Last edited by WOLFGANG

The "side pieces" being discussed are the padded pieces (short on driver's side, long on passenger's) on either side of the eyebrow.  Vintage and JPS cars don't have them, but IM, Beck, and CMC cars do.  The thing you have circled is a defroster vent.  Some are functional while others are fake.

Oh, gotcha. Now the whole “padding” bit makes sense.

Speaking of: when I bought my Spyder, it had a cheesy vinyl bit covering the rear cowl. When I was at SE getting my windshield mounted and tonneau made, I talked Carey out of a strip of red leather to match my seats. My son used to work at a Big4 Motorcycle joint and new crated bikes were wrapped in this synthetic blanket kind of like felt. Probably about 3/16” thick. I attached that to my cowl with Spray77, trimmed it up, then used contact cement, to attach the leather to it. Worked a treat.

Very slightly padded, but it’s something I knew would never disintegrate like foam padding.

The stuff I used is white, but I’d take a WAG that this is the same stuff.

There’s also a synthetic felt they use for roofing might be cheap, but I don’t know how thick it is.


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Last edited by dlearl476
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