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If you go electric pump, you should look at having a fuel filter immediately upstream of the pump. You also should consider a fuel pressure regulator with a good gauge back near the carb(s). And while you're at it, throw in a small, manual shut-off ball valve back near the engine compartment.
If you do purchase a larger tank, Let me suggest that you have it professionally cleaned at a radiator shop. They will immerse it is a chemical and flush it out thus removing any foreign debris. Once it's cleaned out they will coat the inside of the tank with a product that virtually eliminates rust from forming. Once all this is done, they will paint the exterior of the tank. My local radiator shop charges $90.00 for this service.

Aug. 20th through Sept 20th I'll be in Chula Vista at the Chula Vista RV resort.

Finally, if you install an electric fuel pump (highly recommended) think about installing a relay that will shut off the fuel supply if the the engine quits running. Some time ago, I posted that information on several Repliccar bulletin boards but here's another look. If your engine quits running then the fuel pump relay will cut power to the pump but, if you install a momentary switch as shown in the schematic, you can use that to prime your carburetors if necessary. By adding another toggle switch to virtually any of the wires, you will have a backup security switch.

If you have any questions get in touch with me


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As Gordon said, the Facet pumps do make a klacka-klacka-klacka noise; you can hear and feel them through the chassis.
I mounted mine on one-inch isolators; pieces of belted rubber hose to act as deadening material around the bolts which hold the unit in place. I feel a slight vibration through the floors (no carpet in my car) and I only hear the noise before I turn on the engine.
Then I don't hear or feel anything from it.


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I tore apart one of those round, Honeywell home thermostats and removed the mercury switch from it to use as an "upside down cut-off". Just mounted it such that when upside down the mercury drop inside moves away from the contacts and opens a relay which stops the fuel pump.

There may be other ways to do this, but the thermostat was used and kicking around and, best of all, was free...... Unfortunately, I'm not about to flip my car over to test that it works, and it may not work if I end up standing the car on it's nose, but what the hey.....
I use a self-regulated rotary pump from Autozone. 21K and counting, 6 years old. Webers like 3 to 3.5 pounds of pressure, which is what this pump delivers. It has a screw-in Ford type filter in the inlet of the pump, which I replace every year. I also have a filter right before each carb.

For the young kids at Autozone, it is listed as a universal pump for a '67 VW Bug in their computer. I bought it because I can replace it anywhere there is a flawlessly.
I had number four cylinder fill with gas on a few occassions. Luckily I caught it before turning the engine over. I normally park on a ramp in my garage and determined the ramp angle was most of my problem, especially on a full tank. The tank is at a considerable height ABOVE the gas lines to the carbs. YES, the carb should have shut off the gas, but mine were inconsistent for a long time.

I added an electric fuel pump, added a fuel regulator with gauge back in the engine compartment and threw in a properly sized brass ball valve before the regulator. Now whenever I park it on the ramp, I just manually turn off the valve. Problem solved. Never have had the problem when parking in the flat, so I don't use the valve when out and about.

The valve is is also a theft deterent - valve is barely visible where I put it, and it has an very small handle. It works for me.
I am surprised that he put mechanical on both of you. Are you sure? My old Facet fuel pump was put on back side on the left side wall. Maybe he put the electric pump on the 2332 engine only and mechanical pump on the smaller engine. It is strange though.

Bob, maybe you can ask Bruce to check if yours is really mechanical.

Just a quick word of advice. Putting the fuel lines down where they are is not bad, however having those fittings and unions down there is. The reason being, is if you drag over something or catch a pc of highway crap under there you facture on of the fittings. Also in the rear going under the torsion housing is not too good because most everybody if lifting or simply jacking up the car, will want to lift from almost exactly where the line runs under.

This is just my humble opinion....
One unmentiond advantage of an electric fuel pump is that you can run a return line to the tank. Use a regulator to keep consistent pressure and to shunt the additional back to the tank. This helps keep the fuel supply cool and can be beneficial for vapor lock conditions.

I had to replace my electric fuel pump today. It was from C. B. Performance---their 3 1/2 pound pressure one made by Carter. I got it as a spare 3 weeks ago and had to install it today----one day before launching for Asheville! Glad I had it. Sometimes I could hear the pump run and it was silent at other times. I now know that silent meant it wasn't running---the engine would start and I guess that jolted the pump enough to make it run. Yesterday and this morning I had to tap it to get it to start so I knew it was finished.

The old pump lasted just 13,000 miles. I suspect Ethanol contamination.

I'm using 3 oz. of Stabil Ethanol anti-ethanol formula per 8 gallons of gas.

C. B. Performance told me to not worry about not hearing the pump run.

From now on I'll worry.
Hey Jack,

Did you have the C.B. Performance rotary fuel pump :

I have that one and so far, about 13,000 miles seems to be working great. I surely can hear it when it runs. I always wonder how long will the filter last and when it is clogged, can. I just get the filter or do I need to get the whole new pump.

Eddy---yes, that's the one. I don't know if the filter is sold separately or not. I used the entire unit; pump and filter.

When you turn your key and don't hear the pump try tapping it to get it to start. Worked for me.

The replacement pump has a slightly stronger sound than the old one ever did. I hope it lasts longer than the 13k miles I got out of the last one.

Lane--I would have tried that Huco pump if I'd known about it. I should have searched here. See you Friday!

Your fuel line goes right under the torsion housing cap. Is this not a popular place to lift a VW based car?

Also your hollow fuel filter in unprottected and dirrectly under a pan bolt. Let's see going out of a odd driveway or over a large speedbump..... I wonder how strong or better yet how much force it would take to smash it to the point of cracking..... ?

I'm just saying that maybe running the fuel line and other goodies on the side of the 3 inch steel tube and routing the aluminum line above the spring plate retainer would have been a much safer and cleaner install.

But hey you and Bruce know best.... Just eyeball it, it looks great!
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