Electric Fuel Pump

I just got my engine done up at Brothers 1915cc and need a new gas tank, mine has all kinds of debris in it plus I want the bigger tank. Is there a benefit to having an electronic fuel pump? I am basically wondering if it is worth the investment.

Yes Matt.... then you can hide a cutoff switch for security.

Mike

Just don't get a Facet-style pump - It is mechanical and constantly goes "Klacka-Klacka-Klacka....."

Instead, get a rotary pump that puts out 3-5 lbs. of fuel pressure. CB sells a decent one for around 50 bucks. Quiet, efficient and forgetaboutit.

Except my CB pump was gummed up by ethanol crap and died on me after a long illness. So far the Huco (intended for an Austin Healey) that I am running seems much better. It is touted as resistant to the effects of ethanol. Fingers crossed.

make sure you really clean the inside of new tank, it has a cosmolene spray on it and deteriorates over time and plays hell with the jets. the tank is advertised at 16 gal but only holds 13 gal. put a good sized filter before fuel pump.

If you go electric pump, you should look at having a fuel filter immediately upstream of the pump. You also should consider a fuel pressure regulator with a good gauge back near the carb(s). And while you're at it, throw in a small, manual shut-off ball valve back near the engine compartment.

If you do purchase a larger tank, Let me suggest that you have it professionally cleaned at a radiator shop. They will immerse it is a chemical and flush it out thus removing any foreign debris. Once it's cleaned out they will coat the inside of the tank with a product that virtually eliminates rust from forming. Once all this is done, they will paint the exterior of the tank. My local radiator shop charges $90.00 for this service.

Aug. 20th through Sept 20th I'll be in Chula Vista at the Chula Vista RV resort.

Finally, if you install an electric fuel pump (highly recommended) think about installing a relay that will shut off the fuel supply if the the engine quits running. Some time ago, I posted that information on several Repliccar bulletin boards but here's another look. If your engine quits running then the fuel pump relay will cut power to the pump but, if you install a momentary switch as shown in the schematic, you can use that to prime your carburetors if necessary. By adding another toggle switch to virtually any of the wires, you will have a backup security switch.

If you have any questions get in touch with me

As Gordon said, the Facet pumps do make a klacka-klacka-klacka noise; you can hear and feel them through the chassis.
I mounted mine on one-inch isolators; pieces of belted rubber hose to act as deadening material around the bolts which hold the unit in place. I feel a slight vibration through the floors (no carpet in my car) and I only hear the noise before I turn on the engine.
Then I don't hear or feel anything from it.

Hoopty narcosis ? ?

I tore apart one of those round, Honeywell home thermostats and removed the mercury switch from it to use as an "upside down cut-off". Just mounted it such that when upside down the mercury drop inside moves away from the contacts and opens a relay which stops the fuel pump.

There may be other ways to do this, but the thermostat was used and kicking around and, best of all, was free...... Unfortunately, I'm not about to flip my car over to test that it works, and it may not work if I end up standing the car on it's nose, but what the hey.....

I had a Facet pump on my MG Midget, and that sucker was bullet-proof. I also could not hear it when the engine was running, even though it was mounted right behind the seat.

I use a self-regulated rotary pump from Autozone. 21K and counting, 6 years old. Webers like 3 to 3.5 pounds of pressure, which is what this pump delivers. It has a screw-in Ford type filter in the inlet of the pump, which I replace every year. I also have a filter right before each carb.

For the young kids at Autozone, it is listed as a universal pump for a '67 VW Bug in their computer. I bought it because I can replace it anywhere there is a store....works flawlessly.

Am considering an elec fuel pump. Currently have standard vw manual one. Am experiencing fuel in cylinders. HYdraulicing?? apparently very common problem with vws from the beginning with manual pumps. Checked "search" on this site and there are those problems discussed. Any thoughts as to source of problem?? Thanks in advance.

Bob

I had the klacka klacka blues too, so I mounted a CB Rotary pump right next to the Facet. What the hay, now I have a back up right in place. Swap hoses and leads and it's off we go.

~WB

Bob
I had number four cylinder fill with gas on a few occassions. Luckily I caught it before turning the engine over. I normally park on a ramp in my garage and determined the ramp angle was most of my problem, especially on a full tank. The tank is at a considerable height ABOVE the gas lines to the carbs. YES, the carb should have shut off the gas, but mine were inconsistent for a long time.

I added an electric fuel pump, added a fuel regulator with gauge back in the engine compartment and threw in a properly sized brass ball valve before the regulator. Now whenever I park it on the ramp, I just manually turn off the valve. Problem solved. Never have had the problem when parking in the flat, so I don't use the valve when out and about.

The valve is is also a theft deterent - valve is barely visible where I put it, and it has an very small handle. It works for me.

David
Thanks for that. After Tahoe run will address elec pump, etc. Only is an issue when car hasn't been driven for a day or more. Temporarily fix by rocking car ever so slightly when in gear. opens the valves just enough to expel fuel. Learning as I go. I think?

Bob

Hey Bob,

I believe John already install the electric pump on his cars. Usually he used the Facet pump. I changed mine with the CB electric pump closer to the fuel tank and has been good for the last 3 years ( knock on wood)

Eddy

Eddy, good info. I'll check it out. Haven't heard from you in awhile. Hope all is a-ok.

Bob

mechanical on mine, Eddy.

Mechanical on mine too

I am surprised that he put mechanical on both of you. Are you sure? My old Facet fuel pump was put on back side on the left side wall. Maybe he put the electric pump on the 2332 engine only and mechanical pump on the smaller engine. It is strange though.

Bob, maybe you can ask Bruce to check if yours is really mechanical.

Eddy

Bob.
Here is a picture of a mechanical fuel pump, it's between the distributor and the alternator. Is this what you have? I'm also surprised that JPS would not have put in an electric.

Exactly like the picture.

Hello Dave

Added elec fuel pump, filter, valve(shut off), etc."Hydraulicing" gone. Starts and runs smoother. Thanks for info.

Bob

hey bob - sweet looking gear.

isn't that an adjustable fuel pressure regulator though? looks like a fancy filter, cut off valve / switch and regulator. your pump must be upstream (under the tank?)

Got in a hurry-- one of the photos didn't come through. fix soon.

Bob

Just a quick word of advice. Putting the fuel lines down where they are is not bad, however having those fittings and unions down there is. The reason being, is if you drag over something or catch a pc of highway crap under there you facture on of the fittings. Also in the rear going under the torsion housing is not too good because most everybody if lifting or simply jacking up the car, will want to lift from almost exactly where the line runs under.

This is just my humble opinion....

One unmentiond advantage of an electric fuel pump is that you can run a return line to the tank. Use a regulator to keep consistent pressure and to shunt the additional back to the tank. This helps keep the fuel supply cool and can be beneficial for vapor lock conditions.

angela

fuel pressure regulator is above contact point that first touches lift or jack that is employed when car is raised. Also solid aluminum is not likely to crack /shatter. Just my humble opinion.

I had to replace my electric fuel pump today. It was from C. B. Performance---their 3 1/2 pound pressure one made by Carter. I got it as a spare 3 weeks ago and had to install it today----one day before launching for Asheville! Glad I had it. Sometimes I could hear the pump run and it was silent at other times. I now know that silent meant it wasn't running---the engine would start and I guess that jolted the pump enough to make it run. Yesterday and this morning I had to tap it to get it to start so I knew it was finished.

The old pump lasted just 13,000 miles. I suspect Ethanol contamination.

I'm using 3 oz. of Stabil Ethanol anti-ethanol formula per 8 gallons of gas.

C. B. Performance told me to not worry about not hearing the pump run.

From now on I'll worry.

Hey Bob,

That is pretty heavy duty looking set up you have there. Did Bruce do that for you? It looks almost like it is ready for fuel injection system.

Eddy

Hey Jack,

Did you have the C.B. Performance rotary fuel pump : http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=577

I have that one and so far, about 13,000 miles seems to be working great. I surely can hear it when it runs. I always wonder how long will the filter last and when it is clogged, can. I just get the filter or do I need to get the whole new pump.

Eddy

I had exactly the same problem with mine, Jack. I replaced it with a Huco pump from Mike Lempert about 10k miles ago. So far, so good.

I think you're right about ethanol being the culprit.

Eddy---yes, that's the one. I don't know if the filter is sold separately or not. I used the entire unit; pump and filter.

When you turn your key and don't hear the pump try tapping it to get it to start. Worked for me.

The replacement pump has a slightly stronger sound than the old one ever did. I hope it lasts longer than the 13k miles I got out of the last one.

Lane--I would have tried that Huco pump if I'd known about it. I should have searched here. See you Friday!

Another advantage of a regulated return line.

Your pump runs cooler. Cooler means it lasts longer.

angela

Your fuel line goes right under the torsion housing cap. Is this not a popular place to lift a VW based car?

Also your hollow fuel filter in unprottected and dirrectly under a pan bolt. Let's see going out of a odd driveway or over a large speedbump..... I wonder how strong or better yet how much force it would take to smash it to the point of cracking..... ?

I'm just saying that maybe running the fuel line and other goodies on the side of the 3 inch steel tube and routing the aluminum line above the spring plate retainer would have been a much safer and cleaner install.

But hey you and Bruce know best.... Just eyeball it, it looks great!

Angela-could you please elaborate on the return line, i.e, a basic config/schematic and possible a part(s) call-out. (in reference to the 9-6-2011 post)
Thanks, SS