engine is leaking

my engine is leaking all over,first i blamed my mechanic because after oilchange and valveadjustment [ok he forgot to change the oilfilter ]i went back and complained,he changed the filter and released some oil,i have a very dirty engine and all the gaskets seeme to give out,just started a week ago,also the axelseals seem to leak and let trannyoil into my drumbackbreaks,i am not very happy,wounder how my future will be with my baby and my mechanicbill ?herbert hofer.

DO NOT put too much oil in it! If you do, it will find a way out!

There are SO many ways the oil can get out. I have a '07 JPS and the motor I got had a crack in the case, right from the get go. It was delivered that way. Turned out it was because the hole for the oil pressure sender was drilled a little off-center of the boss cast in the case for it, and so one wall was thin, and it cracked -- the sender is a pipe thread, and it opened up a small crack. This dirty deed was the devil to find, but once figured out, was fixed quickly w/ some JB Weld. Really. Just cleaned the crap out of the metal in that area, filed the crack as best I could, jammed in a wad of JB, let it set for a day, and 8K mi later all is good. [Photos are in my SOC photo folder.] Not saying that is your problem here, but it is just one of the ways. I'm thinking the Brazilian cases are pretty roughly done; faults in the cases could be anywhere. Push rod tube seals, oil screen/drain plate, valve covers, oil cooler (just ask Lane), crank end seals, case split-line, all of these can seep or worse. So this just started happening recently, or the motor has been a leaker from the get-go? Need more data, so pls tell more. Crawling underneath and cleaning everyhting good w/ Gunk and then inpecting often may give a clue to the source, or sources.

hi kelly,thanks for your input,the car and engine i have for about 4 years and it was always clean and dry,no dripping,everytime i have a oilchange it gets wett,[wrong oil ?too much oil ?]i try to have it clean,specially if i go to carshows,anyway i will keep checking and cleaning,maybe its the oil [what do you use ?],thanks again for your info,herbert hofer.

Since oil leak was so sudden - I suspect the oil change had something to do with it. Perhaps too much oil, too thin oil (hot in FL), or even using synthetic oil. Then there's reuse of valve cover gaskets or crappy ones and the oil strainer cover - with gasket and 6 copper crush washers. Blow bay and lack of an oil breather system could contribute too. I'd check oil level, wash engine down and see where its coming from.

Herbert,
When you mention oil filter is your motor full flowed with an external oil filter? If so check and make sure they have the correct filter. There is a HUGE difference between the passages on a HP filter and a normal filter and the normal filter can create a rather large restriction and then oil will find its way out somewhere...

Or the filter will explode. Hasn't happened to me, but has to others. I recommend the Wix 51515R - the R indicating a racing filter.

Interesting perhaps related article.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=467803

thanks for all the info,will check now every day oil,engine,and under the car,hope i have the right oil [10-30],and non synthetic,and also will watch temps,again thanks,herbert hofer.

I might seriously consider finding a different place to go to to change your oil.

If this has been happening each time you get your oil changed, well.....

engine is dry again,will check with different mechanic for sure,thanks......

Does any VW engine builder recommend 10-30 w for FL SUMMERTIME ??!!
( Some Harleys use 50W ! )

dave---I was advised to use Brad Penn 20 w 50 from May to Sept then 10 w 30 for summer.

No leaks either--perfectly dry.

If I were in Fla., I'd use conventional straight 40W which is what the VW Manual recommends for "tropical temperatures". That's what I use.

Herbert---I had the same problem with my axle seals---two days before
the Mountain Madness trip!

My tranny oil was leaking out of the seals on both sides and my rear disc brake pads were ruined ---oil was coating the insides of my tires so I had lost a LOT of oil!

I had my car in the shop anyway and I was able to locate the seals locally. The discs were ones used in a Ford Taurus so I was able to get those locally also. It was about $75 for the mechanic.

The seals are doing the job and I haven't lost a drop of tranny oil since and that's been 2,300 miles.

I'll attach a picture of the seals. Be sure to also replace that O-ring too.

Jack:

What rear disk kit are you using that has calipers similar to a Taurus?

gn

Gordon, it's the one sold by C. B. Performance. I called them and was told that the discs were back ordered. They Were kind enough to tell me to just get the Taurus ceramic discs that you can find anywhere. I Dont remember the year but it was a one several years ago-1986 through 1990 or so. I Believe thtat's close but wouldn't rely on that. I Should have written the year down. They fit perfectly.

I have enjoyed these rear disc brakes. They stop perfectly straight, even in a panic stop. I know that most of the braking is handled by the front brakes, but the difference from both front and rear discs is really easy to appreciate.