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I have an Auratium green 57 Vintage Speedster. I purchased from Vintage Motorcars a set of amber fog lights. The set came with a wiring harness that included a toggle switch. My plan was to buy the vintage headlamp switch and the vintage ivory knob to match the other switches on the dashboard.  I dont want to use the harness because it hooks into the fuse box and the toggle switch is ugly. I want to run a separate  independent line with its own fuse to the dash. I contacted  Vintage and they said the headlight  switch and knob will not work with the fog light harness. they said others have asked. I don't understand why it would not work.  Should I check for VW supplies for something to work.  I have seen these same knobs and switches among VW's. Any suggestions?

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Like Carey, I don't see a reason why the VM switch couldn't be made to work.

They may be worried that some folks will overload the switch if they don't use relays or set up proper fuse protection.

So, do use a relay for the fogs. If you're not familiar with wiring up relays, just ask here and you'll get plenty of advice — much of it helpful.

I think you're right to use a dedicated, separately fused line for the fog lights. Without doing a lot of sleuthing under the dash, it can be hard to figure out just what is already running through an existing fuse in the fuse block.


Last edited by Sacto Mitch

I asked Vintage twice and they said others have asked and it wont work. I just want a separate line with a separate fuse.  Because of the horror stories I have heard of fog lights and wiring I don't want them to have anything to do with the standard  wiring. I have never done any wiring other than batteries and changing alternators. I anted to use the Vintage ivory knob to match the others on the dash. The toggle looks funky. I think I have seen VW knobs that look similiar.


Yes, a push-pull headlight switch will work to power your fog lights.  I don’t know why Vintage says otherwise, they must have their reasons, but a switch is a switch.  I understand that you want to use the same knob as others on your dash so everything matches and that is commendable.

For whatever switch you get, will have to figure out the terminals where +12 volts goes in, from the fuse, and out to the headlight terminal for your fog lights.  Why the headlight terminal?  Because it can handle more current (power) than, say, the taillight terminal.

I would highly recommend that you use a relay to power your fog lights, rather than just a switch.  That will make your switch last much longer, especially with the cheap Asian switches on the market these days.

Here is a wiring diagram for a pair of fog lights and a relay.  I use the same circuit, but I wired the switch terminal of the relay directly to my low beam headlight wire so the fogs would come on whenever the headlight low beam is on, no switch involved.

Just substitute your switch for the toggle switch shown, and the indicator is optional.  



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Well, since we’re exploring options here, there’s another one to consider.

This avoids the need to find a switch, bezel, and knob that match your headlight switch, not to mention drilling a big, conspicuous hole in the dash.

If you use a relay (to handle the heavy current that road lights require), you can then use practically any small toggle switch to trigger the relay, and you can hide such a switch on the bottom edge of the dash.

VS put the switch to toggle between high and low beams there on my car and it would probably work OK for a fog light switch, too. I’m away from home now, but will post a photo of this switch location when I get back.

These mini switches require only about a quarter-inch hole, so are practically unnoticeable, are available everywhere on the interwebs, and this location is easy to reach, near the wheel.

To pick a few nits, the headlight switch isn’t really the best suited hardware for this job, if looking at options. It has that unneeded second position, used for tail and running lights, and also that circuit for dimming dash lights. Fog lights you probably want to be either on or off, so why not use a simple on/off switch?

Last edited by Sacto Mitch

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