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That happened to me as well. Most likely the cable stretched. That caused me to have difficulty opening the hood, so I adjusted the length of the, um, long thing with the spring on it (whatever it's called). Bad idea. I wound up having to cut a hole in the driver's side wheel well to reach in to the trunk and release the latch from below. Since my ordeal, Carey has added an emergency access hole for access if this sort of thing happens. Look in the driver's side wheel well for a round cover between the wheel well and the trunk up toward the front. If you don't have one, you may need to cut one. I had a filler panel made out of aluminum that I bolted in.

Call Carey at Special Edition as he can probably guide you through figuring it out.
Bob, the Beck doesn't have access to the latch from underneath. That area is where the spare tire sits. The emergency access hole was added in recognition of this potential problem. I'll post the picture when I get home.

Also, once you (Duke) get the hood open, you can adjust the latch mechanism. The owner's manual I did shows how to do this, but if you don't have one (probably not, since your car is an '06) I can email the page, or you can get the whole thing from Carey.
On a unaltered Vs you can get under the car ad trip the latch with a screwdriver ..

Mine has been monified for the full size spare I added small drain holes at the front for a long long screwdriver letting you do the same proceedure.

Otherwise,, Alan and Lane ,,pretty well covered your cable probem and service. issues And you do need to grease that cable to make it work a lot better It realy helps it.
There is an access under the wheel well on the driver's side (Beck). The hole is covered with a plastic plug about 4 inches in diameter. Remove this plug with a screwdriver then reach and feel. Pull the cable or you might get lucky to reach the latch mechanism. I've had this problem and Carey showed me how to release the hood even when the compartment was too full. The bonnet was shut and raised on one side,

Check your Beck!
If you have the owner's manual, check page 47. There's a picture that shows where the adjustment hole is. The page test is below:

"Under some circumstances the hood release cable may stretch, causing the hood latch to become difficult to operate. The slack in this cable can be adjusted as illustrated in Figure 33 below. The small hole visible just to the lower left of the latch allows a small Phillips-head screwdriver to be inserted to adjust the tension on the cable. To do so, grasp the end of the cable to the left of the clamp with pliers to prevent it from loosening further. Next, loosen the screw and pull the cable slightly further out with the pliers. Tighten the screw on the clamp and release the pliers from the cable. Test to ensure that the release works properly."

The hole that the paragraph talks about is on the latch mounting panel on the body, just to the lower left of the latch itself. The safest way to test is to remove that upper latch assembly from the hood and push it into the latch as if the hood was being closed. That way if it jams, you are not stuck with your hood closed and you can still get to the latch. There are only two bolts that have to be removed to do that.

Aaron, his car may not have the access panel as it is an '06 like mine. Carey didn't start putting them in until after I had my near disaster in late '06. I had to cut my access hole.
Darn, the best solution would be to cut a hole and add a plastic plug. Saws-all or a very large hole saw and repaint with a flat black. I personally would like to see an improved hood latch. Carey has added an addition barrel locking device as a back-up. Seems like the screw in the barrel can not stay tight against the cable. An inherit problem with the barrel method.
A Morse type cable would solve the problem, but would be an increased cost. Boy, look at how easy the adjustment would be!

Better cables than the "lawn mower type wire warped cable are on the market...the reason I went with the 550 Spyder type hydraulic clutch, brake and accelerator pedal assembly from Fibersteel. Please note that the fasteners are sub-standard and should be replaced with American made grade 5s and grade 8 for those fasteners in shear. Just my opinion.
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